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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

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http://www.archive.org/details/alongbowstringorOOralprich 


ALONG  THE  BOWSTRING 

OR    SOUTH    SHORE    OF 
LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


BY 


JULIAN  RALPH, 


ISSUED    BY    THE    GENERAL   PASSENGER    DEPARTMENT    OV 
DULUTH    SOUTH    SHORE   &    ATLANTIC    RAILWAY. 


COPYKIGHTEI)    BY 

C.     B.     HIBBARD,    GENERAL    PASSENGER    AGENT, 

DULUTH,    SOUTH    SHORE    ft   ATLANTIC    r'y, 

i8yi. 


AMERICyVN  BANK  NOTE  CO. 


oMe.wV6f«<- 
37660 


sfRa 


THE  PLOT  OF  THE  STORY. 


They  traveled  and  they  traveled 
And  the  next  thing  they  did  spy 
Was  the  moon  behind  a  hill-top. 
And  that  they  left  behind — 

look  a'  thar ! 

Now,  the  one  he  said  it  was  the  moon 
But  the  other  he  said  '  nay,' 
So  they  'lowed  it  was  a  green  cheese 
With  the  rind  all  cut  away — 

look  a'  thar ! 

— College  Song. 


^NE  of  the  most  original 
of  my  acquaintances 
said  to  me  once  that 
he  had  spent  an  even- 
ing with  M.  Flamma- 
rion,  the  greatest  of 
astronomers,  and  had 
taken  that  occasion  to  catechise  the 
master  about  other  worlds  than  ours. 
"And  do  you  know,"  said  he,  "that 
after  hearing  about  all  the  other 
planets  I  have  come  to  the  convic- 
tion that  this  is  a  good  enough  world 
for  me  ?  It  is  true  that  this  world  has 
defects  ;  for  instance,  a  man  cannot 
have  his  picture  put  on  the  postage 
stamps  until  after  he  is  dead — but,  take 
it  all  in  all,  I  shall  be  satisfied  if  I  get 
my  share  of  all  the  fun  and  beauty, 
and  sight-seeing  and  good  eating  and 
pleasant  company  this  rolling  pill  af- 
fords without  caring  a  snap  to  live  in 
Saturn  and  get  a  couple  of  celestial 
belts  thrown  in,  like  chromos." 


But  one  of  the  best  features  of  life 
on  this  planet  is  the  fact  that  no  man 
or  set  of  men  can  make  it  different. 
In  spite  of  them,  it  keeps  rolling 
around  and  exposing  to  solar  view 
characteristics  and  portions  in  which 
they  take  no  interest.  A  powerful 
body  of  persons,  for  instance,  is  sat- 
isfied to  go  to  Newport  every  year  at 
vast  expense,  to  move  in  a  tiny  set 
whose  lives  are  devoted  to  proving 
that  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
is  all  wrong,  and  that  only  a  few  are 
created  equal  while  all  the  rest  are 
vulgar.  A  still  more  influential  body 
of  persons  think  the  sum  of  human 
happiness  is  reached  if  they  can  go 
to  Brighton,  England,  to  ride  or  walk 
up  and  down  a  stone  embankment 
with  towering  hotels  on  one  side  and 
a  cold  ocean,  unfit  for  either  bathing 
or  boating,  on  the  other.  When  we 
think  of  these  people  and  of  the  hosts 
of  Americans  who  must  go  abroad  to 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY 


be  happy  or  who  want  to  be  cramped 
up  in  some  barn-like,  big  hotel  in  the 
White  or  Catskill  Mountains,  or  else 
must  go  where  they  can  eat  course 
dinners  and  waltz  away  every  night 
to  dulcet  music — when  we  think  of 
these  and  the  other  thousands  of  sorts 
of  people  and  tastes  there  are,  we 
know  that  no  single  book  or  region 
or  thing  can  suit  them  all,  and  we 
thank  Heaven  the  world  is  large  and 
varied  enough  for  them  and  for 
ourselves. 

The  persons  to  whom  this  book  is 
addressed  are  those  who  want  a  new 
field  for  recreation,  for  those  who 
love  Nature  in  her  most  beautiful 
guise,  for  those  who  seek  a  mild  and 
equable  and  invigorating  summer  cli- 
mate, for  those  who  can  appreciate 
the  purest  and  sweetest  air  to  be 
found  on  earth,  made  of  an  admix- 
ture of  the  breath  of  vast  forests  and 
of  the  atmosphere  of  the  largest  body 
of  fresh  water  known  to  man.  That 
seems  a  large  constituency  to  whom 
to  dedicate  a  book,  but  there  are 
others  still  who  will  be  gladdened 
and  stimulated  by  what  is  here  set 


forth,  for  the  region  that  offers  all 
that  I  have  here  enumerated  is  also 
a  vast  and  teeming  sportsmen's  re- 
sort— the  best  stocked  natural  fish 
and  game  preserve  within  easy  reach 
of  the  centre  of  population.  How 
this  can  be,  in  the  same  territory  with 
fine  modern  hotels  and  swarming 
summer  resorts  and  bustling,  progress- 
ive cities,  the  reader  will  discover  as 
he  rides  over  a  perfectly  equipped, 
luxuriously  appointed  railway,  either 
metaphorically  by  reading  the  pages 
that  follow  or  actually  by  pursuing 
the  advice  they  contain. 

The  force  of  the  ballad  quotation 
at  the  head  of  this  introductory  chap- 
ter will  be  noted  when  the  reader  un- 
derstands that  travelers  do  not  always 
agree  even  about  the  objects  they  en- 
counter in  their  wanderings.  There 
are  travelers  whom  few  can  ever  agree 
with — travelers  who  write  up  coun- 
tries and  travelers  who  write  countries 
down.  This  traveler  and  this  book 
seek  no  such  purpose.  They  will 
treat  of  a  country  as  they  found  it  ; 
and  as  they  left  it  so  it  will  be  found 
by  those  who  go  after  them. 


ALONG  THE   BOWSTRING. 


•TT  GLAXCE  at  the  map  of  our  country 
r\  will  show  you  where  the  Bow- 
J  string  is  ;  but  if,  instead  of  find- 
ing it  for  yourself,  I  tell  you  to  what 
the  phrase  is  applied,  the  aptness  of  it 
will  strike  you  at  once.  It  is  the  south 
shore  of  Lake  Superior — practically  a 
straight  line,  like  the  string  of  a  bow, 
connecting  the  ends  of  the  n^.agnificent 
curve  of  the  upper  side  of  the  great 
crystal  sea.  Whatever  the  actual  wave- 
carved  southern  coast  of  the  lake  lacks 
of  evenness  is  now  corrected  by  the 
mathematical  line  of  the  Duluth, 
South  Shore  and  Atlantic  Rail- 
way. The  rails  are  laid  down  with  the 
directness  that  is  peculiar  to  a  tautened 
string,  and  this  enhances  its  great  value 
to  the  traveling  public  while,  at  the 
same  time,  it  misses  none  of  the  scenic 
attractions  of  the  wonderful  panoramic 
region  close  to  the  lake. 

How  many  who  have  not  seen  Lake 
Superior  have  ever  allowed  their  fancy 
to  estimate  what  it  must  be — that  great 
bowl  which  we,  magnificent  belittlers 
of  the  grandest  of  Nature's  achieve- 
ments, call  a  lake,  yet  which,  were  it 
in  Europe,  would  have  become  one  of 
the  seas  of  the  world,  paraded  by  fleets 
of  war  and  dividing  empires? 

It  is  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water 
in  the  world,  as  we  have  all  heard  time 
and  again  ;  but  those  are  mere  words, 
and  convey  no  idea  that  any  mind  can 
grasp.  How  long  and  wide  is  it,  how 
does  it  compare  with  salt-water  seas  of 
which  we  know,  and  how  with  bodies 
of  land  of  which  we  have  some  knowl- 
edge ?  By  such  an  analysis  we  shall 
learn  that  Lake  Superior  is  indeed  one 
of  the  wonders  of  Nature  and  one  of 
the  proudest  of  our  possessions — or 
semi-possessions,  to  speak  more  cor- 
rectly. The  great  lake  is  360  miles 
long  and  140  miles  wide  at  its  largest 
crossing.     It    possesses    a    superficial 


area  of  32,000  square  miles,  or  four 
times  as  many  square  miles  as  the 
State  of  Massachusetts.  Roughly 
speaking,  if  we  could  turn  the  State 
of  Indiana  into  water  it  would  make 
another  lake  the  size  of  Superior. 
Michigan  itself  is  not  twice  as  large, 
nor  is  Wisconsin,  which  is  a  trifle 
smaller  than  the  State  of  Michigan. 
Lake  Superior  has  1500  miles  of  coast, 
or  within  500  miles  of  the  coast  extent 
of  the  great  Black  Sea. 

But  the  seas  of  the  world  are  salty, 
and  this  lake  is  like  a  colossal  diamond 
— clear,  pure,  sparkling,  lying  like  a 
heaven-lighted  gem  in  a  bowl  of  rich 
greenery  fringed  with  a  lace-work  of 
chromatic  rocks  that  take  on  the  most 
weird  and  enchanting  shapes.  The 
transparency  of  the  water  is  so  remark- 
able that  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to 
see  the  complete  outlines  of  a  boat  as 
it  moves  through  the  water,  and  I  have 
myself  seen  not  only  all  the  divisional 
lines  in  the  hull  of  a  lake  propeller  and 
her  keel  and  rudder,  but  the  screw 
itself,  while  it  revolved  slowly,  was  in 
plain  sight,  so  that  the  vessel  looked  as 
it  might  do  if  it  were  moving  through 
the  air.  This  astonishing  clearness  is 
not  peculiar  to  the  great  lake  alone, 
but  is  a  characteristic  of  all  the  bodies 
of  water  in  the  entire  Lake  Superior 
region,  be  they  little  lakes  or  big  ones, 
be  they  rivers  or  rivulets.  At  Mar- 
quette or  Mackinac,  or  wheresoever 
you  journey  in  this  paradise  of  the 
seeker  for  pure  air  and  Nature  un- 
alloyed, you  may  count  the  pebbles  in 
the  water's  bed  at  a  depth  of  twenty- 
five  feet.  Nature's  other  handiworks 
are  equally  clean,  if  I  may  use  the  ex- 
pression, so  that  all  the  beautiful  rock- 
work  that  illuminates  the  lake  shore 
scenery  is  as  sharply  defined  and  trimly 
cut  as  it  is  possible  to  conceive  it. 
The  giant  clifts  that  rise  above  the 


DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


great  lake — itself  630  feet  above  sea- 
level — lift  their  lengths  sheer  into  the 
air  without  any  of  the  usual  clutter  of 
rubble  and  rubbish  that  is  washed 
down  and  banked  halfway  up  the  sides 
of  similar  cliffs  in  other  parts  of  the 
country.  This  it  is  that  gives  their 
wonderful  charm  to  the  Pictured  Rocks 
and  to  the  cliffs  about  Mackinac  and 
elsewhere  ;  no  walls  reared  by  men's 
toil  rise  more  freely  and  cleanly  above 
their  bases. 

Globe-trotters  and  wonder  seekers 
who  fancy  that  if  they  have  "  done  " 
Yosemite  and  seen  Niagara  they  must 
seek  foreign  climes  for  other  experi- 
ences worthy  of  their  effort,  will  travel 
the  world  around  and  find  no  counter- 
part of  Superior.  It  is  grand,  majestic, 
sublime  and  beautiful,  and  no  part  of 


poets  never  was  greater  than  when  lie 
wrote  these  lines,  commensurate  with 
the  grandeur  and  color  and  weird 
effects  of  the  lake  and  its  scenery  : 

"  On  the  clear  and  luminous  water 
Launched  his  birch  canoe  for  sailing  ; 
From  the  pebbles  of  the  margin 
Shoved  it  forth  into  the  water; 
Whispered  to  it,  '  Westward  !  Westward  !' 
And  with  speed  it  darted  forward, 
And  the  evening  sun  descending 
Set  the  clouds  on  fire  with  redness; 
Burned  the  broad  sky  like  a  prairie; 
Left  upon  the  level  water 
One  long  track  and  trail  of  splendor, 
Down  whose  stream,  as  down  a  river, 
Westward,  westward,  Hiawatha 
Sailed  into  the  fiery  sunset. 
Sailed  into  the  purple  vapors, 
Sailed  into  the  dusk  of  evening." 

I  met  an  Ojibway  Indian  across  on 
the  Canadian  side  of  the  lake,  and.  not 
half  believing  he  would  understand  a 
word  of  what  I  repeated,  asked  him  if 
he   knew    those    Indian   words  I  re- 


it  is  more  wonderful  or  worthy  of  de- 
scription than  the  reach  of  four  hun- 
dred miles  made  by  the  Duluth, 
South  Shore  and  Atlantic  Rail- 
way beside  the  gleaming  waters  upon 
which  Longfellow  causes  the  mystic 
Hiawatha  to  embark  and  sail  away 
into  that  oblivion  which  shrouds  per- 
petual life.     The  greatest  of  America's 


membered  that  Longfellow  used  in  his 
poem.  Many  of  them  he  knew  and 
others  he  was  familiar  with  in  slightly 
altered  forms.  It  was  a  tribute  to 
the  sincerity  and  accuracy  of  the  poet 
that  he  should  have  mastered  so  much 
of  the  old  Algic  tongue,  whose  difter- 
ing  dialects  are  yet  spoken  by  all  the 
red  men  on  our  northern  border,  from 


ALONG   THE  BOWSTRING. 


FISHING   IN   THE  RAPIDS. 


the  Rockies  to  Maine.  But  to  me, 
alone  in  a  canoe  in  a  bay  of  the  great 
lake,  with  a  red  man  as  a  companion, 
there  was  a  mysterious  accord  between 
my  feelings  and  the  soft  cadence  of 
the  grand  song  of  Hiawatha.  I  ven- 
tured to  express  my  feelings  to  a  friend 
on  shore  who  had  no  idea  or  object 
above  the  getting  of  trout  or  deer,  and 
he  rudely  broke  the  spell  of  my  fancy. 
"  So  that's  what  you've  been  think- 
ing about,  eh?"  said  he.  "Well,  I've 
been  thinking  about  tomato  cans  and 
picnic  grounds,  and  excursion  boats 
and  fellows  in  tennis  blazers.  They'll 
all  be  here  the  first  thing  you  know. 
This  whole  lake  will  be  ruined  as  soon 
as  folks  find  out  about  it.  It  will  be  a 
regular  summer  stamping  ground  for 
the  whole  country,  and  where  will  we 
go  to  fish  and  get  deer  then  ?  Old  Sir 
John  Lubbock  is  perfectly  right.  He 
savs  the  time  is  not  far  off  when  no 


animal  as  large  as  a  sheep 

will  remain  on  earth,  and 

that    the   hunters   of  that 

period  will  go  armed  with 

microscopes,   and   will   search   for 

queer  insect  life  in  swampy  glens. 

Bah  !  when  I  think  of  the  shooting 

galleries  and  dancing  pavilions  and 

lovers'  walks  that  the  shores  of  this 

lake  will  surely  soon  be  turned  into, 

it  makes  me  tired." 

He  was  right.  The  great  Ameri- 
can people  will  not  long  be  satisfied 
with  the  small  space  along  the  At- 
lantic coast  that  is  available  for 
summer  resorts.  As  the  population 
multiplies,  convenience  as  well  as 
superior  attractions  will  develop  this 
more  salubrious  region.  It  was  a  terra 
incognita  too  long.  Discovered  for 
the  white  man  240  odd  years  ago,  the 
great  lake  remained  for  nearly  two 
centuries  almost  unknown  to  the  world 
at  large.  Even  to-day  it  is  not  suf- 
ficiently well  known  to  take  its  rank 
among  the  wonderlands  of  the  conti- 
nent, and  we  see  Florida  and  the 
Pacific  coast  discussed  and  pictured 
ten  times  to  every  mention  of  this  re- 
gion of  more  potent  attractions.  The 
signs  that  the  nation  at  large  is  awaken- 
ing to  its  beauties  are  unmistakable, 
however,  and  the  people  are  beginning 
to  claim  that  which  the  missionary,  the 
fur  trader,  the  hunter  and  the  aborigine 
have  too  long  enjoyed  by  themselves. 
The  first  time  I  touched  the  hem — 
if  I  may  borrow  a  woman's  word — of 
that  vast  sheet  of  water  I  saw  a  tiny 
member  of  the  vanguard  of  the  coming 


lo         DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &'  ATLAXTIC  RAILWAY. 


multitude.  He  was  a  little  boy  who 
appreciated  the  privilege  of  living  amid 
all  that  grandeur,  as  the  sequel  showed. 
I  disturbed  him  in  a  cause  in  which  he 
felt  that  two  could  not  engage,  for  as  1 
approached  he  stooped,  and,  seizing  e 
pebble,  flung  it  into  the  water. 

"There  !"  said  he,  "that  settles  it. 
I'll  never  see  you  again." 

I  engaged  him  in  a  moment's  con- 
versation, and  learned  that  this  was 
his  very  original  method  of  bidding 
adieu  to  the  lake,  which  had  been  re- 
garded by  him  as  a  sort  of  companion 
and  playmate,  for  he  had  no  brothers 
and  sisters,  and  of  houses  there  were 
none  other  than  his  own  home  in  many 
miles  around. 

"  Do  you  like  living  here  ?"  I  in- 
quired. 

"  Yes,  I  do,"  he  said,  quite  posi- 
tively, "  and  Pop  likes  it  ;  but  Marm 
says  there  ain't  no  '  sassiety  '  here  and 
she  won't  stand  it — and  whatever 
Marm  says  *  goes  '  with  Pop — and  that 
settles  it." 

I  felt  in  my  heart  that  the  woman 
was  right;  indeed,  in  a  moment  the 
boy  took  himself  off  and  I,  too,  was 
left  without  "sassiety." 

I  could  feel  the  immensity  of  the 
unsalted  sea  that  reached  away  before 
me.  Since  then  I  have  come  upon 
Superior  at  different  points,  and  every- 
where that  imperial  quality  has  im- 
pressed itself  upon  my  mind.  It  is 
not  merely  big  in  itself,  it  is  big  in  all 
its  environments  and  details — in  what 
you  might  call  all  its  features.  In  few 
parts  of  the  coast  of  the  Atlantic  itself 
has  Nature  done  such  bold,  majestic 
work  as  she  scatters  lavishly  all  around 
Lake  Superior  ;  indeed,  south  of  New 
England  the  Atlantic  is  dependent 
upon  the  imagination  of  the  beholder 
for  the  awe  and  respect  it  inspires, 
since  what  might  be  called  its  shore 
scenery  is  everywhere  tame.  Very, 
very  far  from  tame  is  the  setting  of 
this  grand  bowl  of  clearest  water  which 
our  nation  seems  to  be  holding  above 
its  head,  as  if  in  a  perpetual  invitation 
for  all  the  world  to  partake  of  our 
bounty  ;  or,  better  yet,  as  if  holding 


up  a  goblet  in  offer  of  this  incessant 
toast  to  all  mankind  : 

"  Your  health." 

Massive  stony  walls,  giant  cliffs, 
fierce  battlemented  rocks,  are  the  char- 
acteristics of  Superior's  shores;  mighty 
fortifications  against  the  still  mightier 
water,  for  everywhere  the  eternal 
masonry  of  the  land  is  torn  and  ragged. 

If  you  look  upon  a  map  of  our 
country  and  draw  your  pencil  from 
Sault  Ste.  Marie  at  one  end  of  Lake 
Superior,  to  Duluth  at  the  other  end, 
you  will  have  marked  a  straight  line, 
and  that  straight  line  is  the  route  of 
the  Duluth,  South  Shore  and 
Atlantic  Railway,  which  invites  us 
to   enjoy   the  beautiful  region  it  has 


ALONG   THE  BOWSTRING. 


rescued  from  the  wilderness  and  is 
now  offering  to  the  people  ;  the  peo- 
plewho  are  undertaking  the  mighty 
task  of  nation-building,  as  well  as  the 
people  who  seek  health  or  rest  or 
Nature's  loveliest  phases. 

Popularly  called  "  The  Short 
Line,"  it  bears  a  happily  chosen  name, 
as  is  shown  by  the  straight  line  you 
have  drawn  on  the  map.  We  have  all 
read  of  the  manner  in  which  a  mighty 
Tsar  called  for  a  map  of  Russia,  and, 
laying  a  ruler  across  it,  drew  a  pencil 
line  straight  from  one  great  city  to 
another,  saying  "  Build  a  road  on  that 
route."  We  have  no  Tsar  here,  but  if 
we  had  it  would  be  scarcely  possible 
for  him  to  have  ordered  a  more  direct 
highway  across  the  continent  than  that 
of  which  this  railway  forms  a  part. 

While  the  map  is  before  you,  please 
note  the  fact  that  if  you  continue  that 
line  you  have  drawn  beneath  Lake 
Superior,  and  push  your  pencil  across 
the  continent,  it  will  pass  through 
Fargo  and  Bismarck  and  Spokane 
Falls,  and  will  dip  into  the  Pacific 
Ocean  at  Seattle  and  Tacoma ;  for 
you  will  have  unconsciously  drawn  the 
route  of  one  of  the  transcontinental 
railways.  Go  back  now  and  push  the 
li  ||  line  eastward,  and  you  will 
run  it  through  Montreal. 
You  cannot  parallel  that 
pencil  mark  anywhere  else 


upon  the  map  and  find  anything  like  so 
straight  a  route  that  railway  men  have 
previously  marked  upon  the  actual 
face  of  our  country  with  their  enduring 
lines  of  steel.  The  Duluth,  South 
Shore  and  Atlantic  Railway  was 
needed  to  complete  that  perfect  con- 
summation of  the  traveler's  ideal,  to 
connect  the  East  and  West,  directly, 
without  those  irreparable  losses  that 
most  railways  are  obliged  to  cause 
their  passengers  by  unavoidable  in- 
directness. 

By  way  of  Montreal,  in  the  swift, 
gliding  palace  coaches  of  the  Cana- 
dian Pacific  Railway,  the  traveler  from 
Boston  or  New  York  will  easily  con- 
vince himself  that,  though  his  cities 
are  off  this  great  transcontinental  high- 
way, his  loss  of  time  in  reaching  it  is 
vastly  less  than  he  will  suffer  by  taking 
any  other  route.  Though  it  is  no  part 
of  my  pleasant  task  to  speak  of  any 
other  than  the  magnificent  region 
along  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Su- 
perior, I  cannot  keep  from  my  mind 
the  memory  of  the  really  wonderful 
novelties  and  delight  that  I  enjoyed 
in  making  just  that  journey  piecemeal 
from  ocean  to  ocean.  In  Canada  the 
way  runs  through  a  country  new  born 
to  the  influences  of  civilization,  a 
region  of  woodland,  lake  and  stream, 
the  reservoir  whence  the  great  lakes 
draw  their  supply.  Then  the  majestic 
stretch  south  of  Lake  Superior,  in- 
comparable in  its  scenic  and  its  sani- 
tary qualities,  new  born  also,  but  born 
to  the  mighty  and  progressive  force  of 
American  enterprise,  and  fairly  throb- 
bing with  the  activity  of  its  develop- 
ment. 

The  eastern  man  who  journeys 
through  the  West  does  not  draw  a 
favorable  comparison  between  the 
diversified,  picturesque  and  often  ro- 
mantic scener)'  of  the  thirteen  original 
colonies  with  the  mighty  monotony  of 
the  plains  or  the  bare  hugeness  of  the 
western  mountains.  But  on  the  south 
shore  of  Lake  Superior,  be  he  how 
prejudiced  he  may,  he  realizes  that  in 
this  great  boudoir  of  Dame  Nature 
there   is    both    the   variety   and    the 


12         DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE  6f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


witchery  of  his  own  famiUar  cUmes, 
blended  often  with  a  boldness  and 
majesty  that  it  will  puzzle  him  to  try 
to  parallel  nearer  the  Atlantic  region. 

And  so  he  passes  on  to  the  imperial 
prairie,  where  he  will  obtain  food  for 
wonder  as  he  comes  upon  town  after 
town,  sprawling  thousands  of  wooden 
houses  upon  miles  of  the  sea  of  grass. 
He  will  not  say  with  Cleopatra,  "Give 
me  to  drink  mandragora,  that  I  might 
sleep  out  this  great  gap,"  but  will  come 
back  with  a  slight  misgiving  about  that 
conceit  he  has  felt  as  a  New  Yorker, 
and  will  find  himself  wondering  how 


long  it  will  be  before  some  of  those 
mushrooms  of  the  plains  will  be  de- 
manding their  rights  to  hold  future 
World's  Fairs.  But  before  he  does 
come  back  he  will  be  whirled  up  the 
Rockies  and  over  their  crests,  and  will 
drop  into  the  glory  of  sun  and  verdure 
on  the  other  side,  to  find  that  the 
straight  line  he  has  been  pursuing 
across  the  continent  needs  only  just  a 
little  bending  down  through  the  Willa- 
mette Valley  to  terminate  it  at  San 
Francisco. 

A  wonderful  line,  that !    A  wonder- 
ful journey  ! 


THE  JOURNEY. 


FROM  SAULT  STE,  MARIE  TO  DULUTH. 

This  new  railroad  that  bids  for  the 
favor  of  the  most  fastidious  public  is 
second  to  no  medium  of  transportation 
in  the  world  in  any  of  the  particulars 
that  go  to  make  the  comfort,  the  safety 
or  the  economizing  of  time,  which 
must  ever  be  the  excuses  of  corpora- 
tions for  building  new  lines  and  of  the 
journeying  public  for  patronizing  them. 
It  is  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie  that  we  first 
find  its  iron  steeds  hitched  to  the 
palatial  coaches  of  the  age  we  enjoy. 

Quaint  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  young  only 
to  those  who  know  not  it  nor  history, 


repeating  a  tender  feminine  name  as 
lovers  are  said  to  linger  on  the  name 
of  her  whom  they  hold  dearest  of  her 
sex.  "I'm  going  to  Susan  Mary," 
said  the  one.  "  I  envy  you,"  the  other 
answered.  Imaginative  by  nature,  I 
all  but  fell  to.  dreaming  of  the  happy 
lot  of  him  who  seemed  to  be  rushing 
to  his  beloved's  presence.  But,  alas  ! 
it  was  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  the  city,  of 
which  he  spoke,  as  I  found  later  when 
I  heard  others  call  it  "Susan  Mary." 

Everyone  knows  how  the  words 
should  be  pronounced,  of  course.  In 
French,  which  we  are  not,  "  So  Sant 
Ma-ree  ;"  in  English,  which  we  speak, 


l.M    THE    LOCK. 


but  known  to  us  who  read  as  dating 
back  223  years  to  A.  D.  1668,  when 
Pere  Marquette  founded  the  settle- 
ment oftenest  called  "the  Soo"  for 
short.  It  happened  once  that  I  was 
on  a  railroad  in  Ontario  and  heard 
two  commercial  travelers  continually 


"Soo  St.  Mary."  It  is  there  that  the 
"Soo"  is  found  in  the  shape  of  falls 
or  rapids  in  the  St.  Mary's  River — 
whence  the  name.  The  Gateway  at 
once  to  the  isle-studded  Huron  and 
the  lordly  Superior,  it  is  a  narrow 
but  busy  pathway  for  the  keels  of  the 


14 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


two  countries,  whose  hands,  ever- 
reaching  toward  one  another,  seem 
here  almost  to  meet  in  the  clasp  that 
symbolizes  the  unity  that  many  predict 
must  sooner  or  later  be  brought  about. 
The  principal  connection  by  which 
the  tourist  reaches  or  leaves  Sault  Ste. 
Marie  is  the  Canadian  Pacific  Rail- 
way— the  most  direct  and  most  superb 
route  to  and  from  all  eastern  points. 
This  line  follows  the  river  and  lake 
shore  for  miles,  with  only  a  short 
portage  between  the  waters  of  Lake 
Nipissing  and  "  Utawa's  flowing  tide," 
and  forms  a  very  picturesque  route  to 
the  eastern  sea-board.  The  tracks  of 
"the  Short  Line"  and  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  are  connected  by  means  of  the 
great  International  Railway  bridge 
built  at  an  expense  of  over  half  a 
million  dollars.  At  Sault  Ste.  Marie, 
also,  connection  is  made  with  the 
steamship  lines  for  all  points  on  Lake 
Huron  and  the  Georgian  Bay,  with 
the  Lake  Superior  Transit  Co.  for 
Buffalo  ;  the  Lake  Michigan  &  Lake 
Superior  Co.  for  Chicago,  and  the  boats 
of  the  Delta  Transportation  Co.  for 
Mackinac,  Cheboygan  and  Petoskey. 


SHOOTING  THE   "sOo"  RAPIDS. 

SAULT  STE.  MARIE  has  several 
fine  hotels,  from  whose  balconies  the 
visitor  can  watch  the  roaring,  dashing, 
foaming  rapids,  with  genuine  Indians 
in  the  foreground,  who,  in  their  light 
canoes,  skillfully  dip  the  shining  white- 
fish  from  its  element.  These  Indian 
boatmen,  hailing    from    a   reservation 


near  by,  derive  an  income  by  renting 
their  canoes  and  their  own  skillful 
services  toward  a  sport  which  for  dash 
and  exhilarating  effect  cannot  be  ex- 
celled— **  shooting  the  rapids" — an 
experience  never  to  be  missed  and 
always  to  be  remembered.  It  is  a  trip 
having  more  apparent  than  real  dan- 
ger. The  Indian  pilots  have  spent  their 
entire  lives  on  and  about  the  rapids, 
know  almost  every  rock  in  them, 
and  so  skillful  have  they  become  in 
the  use  of  their  paddles,  that  not  one 
accident  is  recorded.  For  those  who 
love  fishing  there  is  good  sport  with 
the  rod  on  these  excursions,  for  very 
fine  large  lake  trout  are  plentiful. 

The  lake  boats — carrying  a  com- 
merce greater  than  threads  the  Suez 
Canal,  and  continually  in  sight  of  the 
tourist  as  he  sits  on  his  hotel  piazza 
or  walks  the  walls  of  the  greatest  locks 
in  the  world — are  a  source  of  unfailing 
interest  and  instruction.  The  locks 
in  the  foreground,  the  foaming  rapids, 
the  Canadian  Islands  beyond,  with 
rocks  and  evergreens  striving  for  place, 
the  old  Hudson  Bay  Company's  trad- 
ing post,  and  rising  in  the  background 
the  Canadian 
hills,  emerald  and 
bold, make  aland- 
scape  well  worth 
seeing  and  cer- 
tain to  be  en- 
joyed. 

During  the 
summer  season 
there  are  almost  innumerable 
excursions  to  be  taken  from 
the  Sault — to  Bruce  Mines,  to 
Point  aux  Pins,  to  Garden 
River,  to  Little  Rapids,  and 
last,  but  not  least,  to  "go 
fishing." 

FAMED    IN   HISTORY. 

We  have  heard  of  places  that  were 
called  cradles  of  history,  but  this  and 
the  other  old  forts  and  posts  of  Mich- 
igan were  in  a  region  that  may  not  at 
all  irreverently  be  called  a  whole  nur- 
sery of  history.  What  other  section 
of  the  country  can  claim,  as  this  justly 


THE  JOURNEY 


15 


claims,  to  have  borne  the  brunt  of  two 
wars  ?  It  is  worth  the  while  of  any 
American  to  pause  for  the  moment  we 
shall  spend  in  considering  what  part 
in  the  making  of  America  this  remark- 
able district  has  played. 

Though  Marquette  founded  the 
settlement,  he  was  not  the  discoverer 
of  the  region.  According  to  the  tra- 
ditions of  the  Ojibways,  the  French 
traders  {courreurs  des  bois)  reached 
here  ahead  of  the  Jesuits.  The  mis- 
sionaries first  saw  "the  Soo  "  in  1641, 
and  named  them  the  Sault  de  Gaston, 
in  honor  of  the  younger  brother  of 
the  King  of  France.  In  1660  Father 
Mesnard  passed  up  the  rapids  into 
Lake  Superior.  Claude  Dablou  and 
James  Marquette  arrived  in  1668  and 
founded  a  mission  among  the  Indians, 
calling  it  Sault  Ste.  Marie.  Thus  it 
claims  the  distinction  of  being  the 
oldest  town  in  Michigan.  In  1689  the 
mission  was  abandoned,  owing  to  the 
growing  importance  of  Mackinac  as 
a  fur-trading  centre. 

In  1750  the  French  Governor  of 
Canada,  Jonquiere,  gave  to  Captain 
de  Bonne  and  Chevalier  de  Repen- 
tigny  a  grant  of  land  bordering  upon 
the  rapids  and  river  Ste.  Marie  six 
leagues,  on  condition  that  a  palisade 
fort  should  be  erected.  This  was 
built,  and  a  farm  was  cleared  and 
stocked  with  cattle.  The  chief  pur- 
pose of  the  post  was  to  prevent  the 
Indians  of  Lake  Superior  from  going 
down  to  Oswego,  where  they  received 
presents  from  the  English  and  were 
being  seduced  from  their  allegiance 
to  the  French.  It  had  hardly  been 
completed  before  the  French  and 
Indian  war  broke  out,  and  Bonne  and 
Repentigny  left  the  post  in  charge  of 
Jean  Baptiste  Cadeau.  Upon  the 
surrender  of  Mackinac  to  the  British, 
in  1762,  a  detachment  under  Lieut. 
Jeannette  proceeded  to  take  posses- 
sion of  the  post  at  the  Sault.  He  met 
with  no  opposition,  but  as,  in  Decem- 
ber of  that  year,  fire  destroyed  the 
whole  station,  Cadotte  was  left  in  un- 
disputed possession.  During  the  Pon- 
tiac  conspiracy  Cadotte  was  friendly 


to  the  British,  and  his  wife,  who  was 
of  unusual  force  of  character,  pre- 
vented the  recapture  of  Alexander 
Henry,  the  only  Englishman  who  sur- 
vived the  massacre  of  Old  Mackinac. 

In  1802  a  British  post  was  re-estab- 
lished here.  During  the  war  of  181 2 
a  band  was  organized  under  John 
Johnston,  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  to  go  to 
the  assistance  of  the  British  at  Mack- 
inac, who  were  being  hard  pressed  by 
the  Americans.  The  latter  had  their 
revenge,  however.  The  schooner 
"Scorpion,"  in  July,  1814,  landed  a 
force  of  infantry  under  Major  Holmes 
at  the  Sault.  He  burned  the  trading 
post  to  the  ground.  Johnston  and 
his  company  escaped.  Governor  Cass 
visited  the  place  in  1820,  and  on  his 
recommendation  General  Hugh  Brady 
was  sent  in  1822  to  found  a  garrison, 
which  has  since  borne  his  name,  Fort 
Brady. 

The  'discovery  and  development  of 
the  mineral  resources  of  the  Upper 
Peninsula  of  Michigan  rendered  im- 
perative and  urgent  the  construction 
of  a  ship  canal  around  the  rapids  at 
Sault  Ste.  Marie.  Governor  Mason, 
in  1837,  advised  the  building  of  such 
a  canal,  and  work  was  begun  in  1838. 
The  military  authorities,  who  con- 
sidered the  work  an  infringement 
upon  the  right  of  the  general  govern- 
ment, drove  the  contractors  off  the 
ground  with  an  armed  force,  and  work 
was  not  resumed  until  1853.  The 
contract  called  for  two  consecutive 
locks  350  feet  long,  seventy  feet  wide, 
and  with  a  depth  of  thirteen  feet  of 
water  and  with  proper  approaches. 

On  the  2ist  of  May,  1850,  the  canal 
was  completed  at  a  cost  of  $999,802.- 
46,  and  resulted  in  adding  Lake  Su- 
perior to  that  system  of  water-ways 
which  is  the  pride  of  the  northern 
border.  Sault  Ste.  Marie  lost  much 
of  its  commercial  prestige  as  a  result, 
but  in  1870  the  building  of  a  new  lock 
by  the  Federal  Government  gave  it  a 
new  impetus.  This  was  completed  in 
1 88 1,  and  now  a  third  one  has  been 
rendered  necessary  by  the  increasing 
traffic,  and  Congress  has  appropriated 


i6 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &  ATLANTIC  RAILWAr. 


more  than  $3,000,000  for  its  comple- 
tion. This  third  lock  will  be  800 
feet  long  inside  of  the  gates,  100  feet 
wide  and  twenty-one  feet  deep.  A 
pier  is  to  be  constructed  in  front  of 
Fort  Brady,  and  the  present  pier  ex- 
tended 1000  feet.  A  power  canal  is 
being  constructed  which  will  have 
Lake  Superior  for  a  supply  basin  and 
the  source  of  a  power  estimated  at 
over  700,000  horse-power  and  capable 
of  supplying  unlimited  power  for 
manufactures. 

SOO  JUNCTION.— Taking  our 
places  in  the  cars,  we  find  that  the 
verdict  of  those  who  have  gone  before 
us  is  true,  and  that,  though  we  are  to 
penetrate  some  primitive  districts,  we 
shall  do  so  amid  those  elegances  with 
which  the  Duluth,  South  Shore 
AND  Atlantic  Railway  is  replete, 
and  which  cause  men  to-day  to  speak 


as  confidently  of  the  comforts  of  rail- 
road travel  as  their  grandsires  did 
of  the  afwcomforts  of  stage-coaching. 
Modern  cars,  broad-tracked  and  on 
yielding  springs,  a  straight  and  level 
road,  powerful  and  swift  engines,  polite 
attendants  and  officials — these  are  the 
necessary  concomitants  of  the  modern 
railroad,  and  these  are  guaranteed 
upon  the  present  journey.  The  ride 
of  forty-seven  miles  which  brings  us^ 
to  Soo  Junction  is  sufficient  to  set 
the  traveler's  doubts  at  rest,  and  to 
allow  him  to  prepare  his  mind  for  a 
delightful  journey.  At  this  junction 
a  branch  bears  off  to  the  south-east- 
ward to  St.  Ignace  and  Mackinac,  a 
side  journey  to  be  experienced  here- 
after, for  the  charms  of  Mackinac  are 
too  seductive  to  be  treated  merely  en 
passant. 


THE  JOURNEY. 


17 


Newberry  and  the  extensive  works 
of  the  Newberry  Furnace  Company- 
are  quickly  passed, 
and  so  are  those  busy 
stations  of  the  lum- 
ber trade,  McMillan 
and  Seney. 

We  are  journeying 
through  a  region  of 
vast    extent    as    well 


as  vast  activity 
in  the  lumbering 
business.  The 
camps  of  the  log- 
gers frequently 
relieve  and  ren- 
der picturesque 
the  scene  in  this, 
which  once 
might  have  been 
called  the  "forest 
etern  al,"  but 
which  the  swift, 
unerring  blades 
of  the  axemen  are 
thinning  most 
portentously. 
And  yet,  when 
one  considers  the 
territory  that  is 
the  field  of  this 
industry,  all  act- 
ive   fear    of    a 


failure  of  the  timber  supply  is  lulled 
to  rest.  Timber  and  water,  water 
and  timber — these  are  the  alternat- 
ing, but  persistent  features  of  this 
region.  Lakes,  rivers,  creeks  and  for- 
ests swing  by  with  endless  repetition. 
And  let  it  be  noted  that  no  true 
sportsman  who  loves  the  prizes  of 
which  wildest  nature  is  most  prolific 
needs  many  minutes  of  journeying 
over  this  reach  of  the  railway  be- 
fore there  will  leap  to  his  mind  the 
confident  conviction  that  he  is  in 

A   WONDROUS    PLACE   FOR    ROD 
AND    GUN. 

A  new  field,  also — as  little  de- 
pleted and  as  rich  in  store  of  game 
as  any  in  the  United  States.     The 
silvery   lanes    of   crystal  water  in 
which  the  trout  lurk  are  astonish- 
ingly  numerous.      The    reason    is 
simple.     This  is  the  bight  of  land, 
or   "  divide "    between    two   great 
basins,  and  there  are  streams  flow- 
ing northward  into  Lake  Superior, 
and  as  many  more 
following  the  water- 
shed of  Lake  Michi- 
gan.   Trout  are  very 
plentiful,    and    very 
large  and  finely  fla- 
vored.   In  the  larger 
streams   and  in  the 
lakes  is  goodly  store 
of  other  fish,  nota- 
ble for  the  sport  that 
must    preface    their 
capture   or    for   the 
delicacy  of  their 
flesh,  or  for  both 
allurement  s. 
The   musk  al- 
longe, monarch 
and   tiger 
of  fresh- 
water den- 
i  z  e  n  s,  is 
here  found 
in   great 
numbers 
and     of 
splendid 
size.      His 


DULUTH  SOUTH  SHORE   &f   ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


companions  are  pike,  pickerel,  perch 
and  black   bass. 

For  the  gun  and  rifle  the  prey  is 
notable.  Deer,  bear,  geese,  ducks, 
grouse  and  partridge  lead  the  smaller 
quarry,  which  the  sportsmen  will  find 
active  employment,  not  in  hunting 
merely,  but  in  bagging.  This  railroad, 
so  fortunate  in  following  the  water- 
shed in  this  remarkable  country,  also 
boasts  a  resident  population  possessed 
of  all  the  facilities  for  equipping  par- 
ties of  huntsmen  and  fishermen,  and 
yet  not  at  all  inclined  to  over-estimate 
the  value  of  their  services.  At  any  of 
the  stations  named  thus  far,  and  at  all 
of  the  principal  ones  farther  across 
the  upper  peninsula,  sportsmen  can 
outfit  completely.  They  will  find 
comfortable  inns  at  the  towns  and 
villages,  and  whatever  appurtenances 
they  need  afterward,  be  they  guides 
or  boats,  bait,  teams 
or  whatever,  and  al- 
ways on  reasonable 
terms.  The  streams 
encountered  on  ei- 
ther side  of  Soo 
Junction  are  mainly 
tributaries  of  the 
Tahquamenon  Riv- 
er, which  flows  into 
Lake  Superior;  while 
beyond,  around 
Seney,  the  streams 
are  tributary  to  the 
Manistique  River,  a 
feeder  to  Lake  Mich- 
igan. These  streams 
are  very  numerous, 
and  so  are  the  lakes 
and  ponds  in  the 
same  district.  From 
Seney,  by  a  run  of  thirty-five  miles 
— as  straight  as  ever  bullet  sped 
from  gun  to  game — passing  Driggs, 
Creighton  and  Shingleton,  we  come 
to  Munising. 

MUNISING    AND    PICTURED    ROCKS. 

MUNISING.— The  sportsman,  the 
idler  and  the  sight-seer  may  all  be 
surfeited  here,  but  for  the  sight-seer 
is  the  greatest  delectation,  since  this 


is  the  point  of  debarkation  from  the 
train  to  make  the  side-trip  to  the 
Pictured  Rocks.  They  lie  to  the 
northward,  fringing  Lake  Superior. 
In  the  other  direction  a  short  journey 
brings  a  disciple  of  Izaak  Walton  to 
the  beginning  of  a  series  of  lakes  and 
streams  that  empty  into  Lake  Mich- 
igan. The  nearest,  two  miles  off,  is 
Long  Lake,  and  seven  miles  farther  is 
Sixteen-Mile  Lake,  two  famous  haunts 
of  game  fish.  The  "  entire  region  is 
well  stocked  with  trout,  perch  and 
black  bass. 

But  we  are  sight-seers  as  well  as 
sportsmen,  and  in  a  stage-coach  at 
the  station  we  are  bundled  in  with  a 
light-hearted  company  bound  upon  a 
four-mile  ride  to  Old  Munising  on 
Munising  Bay.  It  is  a  delightful  ride, 
up  hill  and  down  dale,  through  dense, 
cool  forest  and  sunny  glade  ;  and 
presently,  when  the 
brow  of  the  last  ac- 
clivity is  mounted, 
there  spreads  before 
the  view  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of 
harbors  —  Munising 
Bay. 

OLD  MUNIS- 
ING is  a  distinctly 
drowsy  old  place 
that  had  one  era  of 
bustle  and  briskness 
and  then  went  to 
sleep,  to  find  the 
hand  of  Time  now 
rudely  awakening  it 
to  begin  a  new 
career  of  activity. 
But  it  is  all  the  bet- 
^  '  ter  that  it  is  such  a 

place  as  it  is,  for  no  new,  fresh  painted 
modern  village  would  suit  its  sur- 
roundings so  well.  Did  my  reader 
ever  happen  to  come  across  ''The 
Castle  of  Indolence,"  so  as  to  be  able 
to  note  the  similarity  between  the 
poet's  description  and  this  beautiful 
region  of  the  Pictured  Rocks?  Read 
the  lines  while  you  are  looking  at 
Munising  Bay,  or  when  you  are  sailing 
leisurely  amid    the    wondrous  rocks. 


THE  JOURNEY. 


19 


You  will  never  forget  one  or  the  other 
afterward,  for  one  is  the  written  echo 
of  the  other  : 

A  pleasing-  land  of  drowsyhed  it  was, 

Of  dreams  that  wave  before  the  half-shut  eye; 
And  of  gay  castles  in  the  clouds  that  pass, 

Forever  flushing  'round  a  summer  sky  : 
There  eke  the  so^  delights  that  witchingly 

Instil  a  wanton  sweetness  through  the  breast, 
And  the  calm  pleasures,  always  hovered  nigh; 

But  whate'er  smacked  of  'novance  or  unrest 
Was  far,  far  off  expelled  from  this  delicious  nest. 


large  and  inviting  hotel,  and  another 
is  to  be  found  on  the  island  beyond. 
THE  PICTURED  ROCKS  are 
"just  around  the  corner,"  so  to  speak, 
and  are  reached  by  and  viewed  from 
the  decks  of  the  handsome  steamers 
that    periodically    ply    between    the 


HUNISING  BAY. 


The  sheltered  harbor,  enclosed  be- 
tween high  bluffs  at  the  sides  and 
made  to  seem  all  but  land-locked  by 
the  distant,  softly-outlined  heap  called 
Grand  Island  in  the  background,  is 
not  only  beautiful  in  a  high  degree, 
but,  as  the  artist  who  drew  its  picture 
expressed  himself,  "it  rests  you  just 
to  look  at  it."  The  chromatic  waters 
of  the  bay,  now  excelling  and  now 
mimicking  the  coloring  of  the  clear, 
bright  sky,  the  quaint  old  village  with 
its  ruins  of  an  iron  furnace  of  an 
earlier  day,  the  soft  island  and  gentle 
bluffs — these  are  all  alike  invested 
with  an  inherent  quiet  and  air  of 
seclusion  whose  restful  influence  it  is 
impossible  to  escape.  Opposite  the 
old  village,  on   Powell's   Point,   is  a 


village  and  the  dozen-mile  series  of 
fantastic  cliffs  and  natural  monuments. 
For  those  who  have  time  sailing  par- 
ties over  the  same  route  are  arranged, 
and  afford  participants  a  new  and, 
some  think,  a  better  view  than  that 
obtained  from  the  larger  vessels. 

Constance  Fenimore  Woolson  has 
written  a  description  of  the  region 
that  may  not  be  easily  excelled.  She 
says  : 

"  The  Pictured  Rocks  stretch  from 
Munising  Harbor  eastward  along  the 
coast,  rising  in  some  places  to  the 
height  of  200  feet  from  the  water, 
in  sheer  precipices,  without  beach 
at  their  bases.  They  show  a  con- 
stant succession  of  rock-sculptures, 
and   the  effect  is  heightened  by  the 


20         DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE    &>  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


brilliancy  of  the  coloring  —  yellow, 
blue,  green  and  gray,  in  all  shades  of 
dark  and  light,  alternating  with  each 
other  in  a  manner  which  charms  the 
traveler,  and  so  astonishes  the  sober 
geologist  that  his  dull  pages  blossom 
as  the  rose.  It  is  impossible  to  enu- 
merate all  the  rock  pictures,  for  they 
succeed  each  other  in  a  bewildering 
series,  varying  from  differing  points 
of  view  and  sweeping  like  a  panorama, 
from  curve  to  curve,  mile  after  mile. 
They  vary,  also,  to  various  eyes,  one 
person  seeing  a  castle  with  towers 
where  another  sees  a  caravan  of  the 


the  Chimney's  and  the  Miner's  Cas- 
tle, a  detached  mass  called  the  Sail 
Rock,  comes  into  view;  and  so  strik- 
ing is  the  resemblance  to  a  sloop  with 
the  jib  and  mainsail  spread,  that,  at  a 
short  distance  out  at  sea,  anyone 
would  suppose  it  a  real  boat  at  anchor 
near  the  beach.  Two  headlands  be- 
yond this,  Le  Grand  Portal,  so 
named  by  the  voyageurs,  a  race  now 
gone,  whose  unwritten  history,  hang- 
ing in  fragments  on  the  points  of 
Lake  Superior,  and  fast  fading  away, 
belongs  to  what  will  soon  be  the 
mystic  days  of   the  fur  trade.     The 


INU    PORTAL. 


desert ;  the  near-sighted  following  the 
tracery  of  tropical  foliage,  the  far- 
sighted  pointing  out  a  storied  fortifi- 
cation with  a  banner  flying  from  its 
summit.  There  are,  however,  a  num- 
ber of  the  pictures  so  boldly  drawn 
that  all  can  see  them  near  or  far,  even 
the  most  deadly  practical  minds  being 
forced  to  admit  their  reality.     Passing 


Grand  Portal  is  loo  feet  high  by 
1 68  feet  broad  at  the  water-level; 
and  the  cliff  in  which  it  is  cut 
rises  above  the  arch,  making  the 
whole  height  185  feet.  The  great 
cave  whose  door  is  the  Portal, 
stretches  back  in  the  shape  of  a 
vaulted  room,  the  arches  of  the  roof 
built    of    yellow    sandstone,   and    the 


THE  JOURNEY. 


sides  fretted  into  fantastic  shapes  by 
the  waves  driving  in  during  storms, 
and  dashing  up  a  hundred  feet 
toward  the  reverberating  roof  with 
a  hollow  boom.  Floating  under  the 
Portal,  on  a  summer  day,  voices  echo 
back    and    forth,    a   single    word    is 


"  Farther  toward  the  east  is  La 
Chapelle  of  the  voyageurs.  This 
rock-chapel  is  forty  feet  above  the 
lake,  a  temple  with  an  arched  roof  of 
sandstone,  resting  partly  on  the  cliff 
behind,  and  partly  on  massive  columns, 
as  perfect  as  the  columned  ruins  of 


A   SAIL   ALONG   THE    PICTURED    ROCKS. 


repeated,  and  naturally  the  mind  re- 
verts to  the  Indian  belief  in  grotesque 
imps  who  haunted  the  cavern  and 
played  their  pranks  upon  rash  in- 
truders. 


Egypt.  Within,  the  rocks  form  an 
altar  and  a  pulpit ;  and  the  cliff  in  front 
is  worn  into  rough  steps  upward  from 
the  water,  so  that  all  stands  ready  for 
the    minister    and   his   congregation. 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &-  ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


The  colors  of  the  rock  are  the  fresco, 
mosses  and  lichens  are  the  stained 
^lass;  and,  from  below,  the  continuous 
v/ash  of  the  water  in  and  out  through 
holes  in  the  sides,  is  like  the  low,  open- 
ing swell  of  an  organ  voluntary.  A 
Manitou  dwelt  in  this  chapel — not  a 
mischievous  imp,  like  the  spirits  of  the 
Portal,  but  a  grand  god  of  the  storm, 
who,  with  his  fellow  god  on  Thunder 
Cape  of  the  north  shore,  commanded 
the  winds  and  waves  of  the  whole 
lake,  from  the  Sault  to  Fond  du 
Lac.  On  the  chapel-beach  the  Indians 
performed  their  rites  to  appease  him, 
and  here,  at  a  later  day,  the  merry 
voyageurs  initiated  the  tyros  of  the 
fur  trade  into  the  mysteries  of  their 


y ,' 


craft,   by   plunging    them 

into    the    water-fall    that 

dashes  over  the  rocks  near 

by,  a  northern  parody  on    '  crossing- 

the-line.' 

"The  Silver  Cascade  falls  from 
an  overhanging  cliff  175  feet  into 
the  lake  below.  The  fall  of  Niag- 
ara  is  165    feet,   ten    feet    less    than 


the  Silver,  which,  however,  is  but  a 
ribbon  in  breadth,  compared  to  the 
'  Thunder  of  Waters.'  The  Silver  is  a 
beautiful  fall  and  the  largest  among 
the  pictures;  but  the  whole  coast  of 
Superior  is  spangled  with  the  spray 
of  innumerable  cascades  and  rapids, 
as  all  the  little  rivers,  instead  of  run- 
ning through  the  gorges  and  ravines 
of  the  lower  lake  country,  spring 
boldly  over  the  cliffs,  without  waiting 
to  make  a  bed  for  themselves.  Un- 
dine would  have  loved  their  wild,, 
sparkling  waters. 

"  The  coast  of  pictures  is  not  yet 
half  explored,  nor  its  beauties  half  dis- 
covered; they  vary  in  the  light  and  in 
the  shade;  they  show  one  outline  in 
the  sunshine  and  another  in 
the  moonlight  ;    battlements 
and  arches,  foliage  and  vines^ 
cities   with  their  spires    and 
towers,    processions   of   ani- 
mals, and  even 
the  great  sea  ser- 
^,  ■  _  pent  himself , who 

at  last,  although 
still   invisible   in 
his  own    person, 
,  .  has   given  us  a 
'"" '    kind  of  rock- 
photograph    of 
■ —  his    mysterious 
''-''  self.  In  one  place 

there   stands   a 
,  majestic   profile  locking  to- 

ij^  wards  the  north — a  woman's 

face,  the  Empress  of  the 
Lake.  It  is  the  pleasure  of 
her  Imperial  Highness  to 
visit  the  rock  only  by  nighty 
a  Diana  of  the  New  World. 
In  the  daytime  search  is 
vain,  she  will  not  reveal  her- 
self ;  but  when  the  low-down 
moon  shines  across  the  water, 
behold,  she  appears.  She 
looks  to  the  north,  not  sadly, 
not  sternly,  like  the  old  man  of  the 
White  Mountains,  but  benign  of 
aspect,  and  so  beautiful  in  her 
rounded,  womanly  curves,  that  the 
late  watcher  on  the  beach  falls  into 
the  dream  of   Endymion;   but  when 


THE  JOURNEY. 


23 


he  wakes  in  the  grey  dawn  he  finds 
her  gone,  and  only  a  shapeless  rock 
glistens  in  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun." 

To  the  pleasure-loving  tourist  or 
connoisseur  of  Nature's  gems,  the 
Pictured  Rocks  of  Lake  Superior 
carry  with  them  an  interest  entirely 
unique  and  excelled  by  no  other 
wonders  of  our  country,  not  even 
excepting  the  Yosemite  or  Yellow- 
stone Park. 

AU  TRAIN.— Back  again  in  the 
cars  for  a  journey  to  another  lake 
resort,  only  thirteen  miles  from  Muni- 
sing.  This  brings  us  to  Au  Train 
station  and  Au  Tr.\in  island,  the 
latter  being  abundant  in  other  ex- 
amples of  the  curious  sandstone 
formations  that  fringe  the  great  lake 
as  with  colored  lace  work  cut  by  the 
gigantic  hands  of  Nature.  You  can 
see  the  island  from  the  railway,  but 
it  needs  a  personal  visit  for  an  exam- 


ination of  the  columns,  colonnades, 
grottoes,  caves  and  castellated  effects 
of  centuries  of  incessant  wave  strokes 
upon  the  rocks.  Au  Train  itself,  on 
the  mainland,  has  a  vicinage  full  of 
attractions.  The  hotel  and  cottages 
peeping  between  the  trees  compose  an 
alluring  little  watering-place  for  those 
who  seek  merely  rest  and  ([uiet  com- 
bined with  the  ozone  of  pure  air,  the 
safeguard  of  an  equable  and  delightful 
temperature,  and  the  stimulus  and  joy 
of  beautiful  surroundings.  But  here, 
also,  is  the  Au  Train  River,  famous  as 
a  fishing  stream,  and  making  its  way 
by  a  series  of  plashing  and  turbulent 
cascades,  with  Au  Train  Lake  only 
two  miles  from  the  station.  All 
this  water  yields  abundant  trout  a,nd 
bass,  and  the  bush  around  it  affords 
good  sport  for  hunters.  All  the  para- 
phernalia for  shooting  and  fishing  is 
obtainable  at  the  station,  and  excellent 


AT       AU       TRAIN       LAKK. 


24 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


camping  grounds  for  resting  places 
or  hunting  camps  are  abundant. 

ONOTA  is  but  a  few  miles  beyond, 
on  the  line  of  the  railway,  and  here 
lies  Deer  Lake,  one  of  the  most  en- 
chanting sheets  of  crystal  that  reflect 
the  verdure  of  this  beautiful  region. 
Deer  Lake  is  between  the  railroad 
and  Lake  Superior,  and  is  a  mile  in 
length  and  one  quarter  as  wide.  It 
lies  shut  in  by  high  sloping  walls  of 
dense  timber, 
as  secluded 
and  quiet  as  it 
is  beautiful. 

Capital  is 
being  employ- 
ed to  construct 
a  number  of 
good  picnic 
grounds  with- 
out injury  to 
the  scenery, 
and  already 
some  quaint 
and  cosy 
lodges  add 
to  the  pict- 
uresqueness  of 
the  lake's  sur- 
roundings. 
Here  is  good 
sport  with  rod 
and  reel,  and 
in  the  deep  yet 
pellucid  water 
one  may  actu- 
ally see,  at 
times,  the 
tiger -like  mus- 
kallonge  and 
darting  bass 
whose    haunts 

are  there.  The  great  king  of  all  lakes, 
Superior,  is  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  this  silvery  V^asin,  and  from  the 
northern  rim  of  the  lesser  bowl  the 
great  fresh-water  sea  expands  before 
the  view.  Of  course,  the  same  oppor- 
tunities for  exercise  with  the  rifle  and 
gun  are  to  be  found  here,  and  outfits 
are  as  readily  obtainable  at  this  as  at 
ether  stopping  places. 

One    of    the   forest    industries    is 


charcoal-burning,  and  as  the  kilns  in 
use  can  be  "seen  from  the  cars  the 
novelty  of  the  journey  is  enhanced. 
The  kilns  or  ovens  are  great  cones 
built  of  fire-brick,  and  capable  of 
holding  immense  quantities  of  wood 
which  is  filled  in  from  the  top.  The 
apertures  are  then  closed,  and  as  the 
wood  undergoes  the  process  of  con- 
version into  coal,  steam  and  smoke 
burst  out  of  the  circles  of  vent-holes 


26 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


in  the  sides  of  the  cones.  The  pro- 
cess is  interesting,  and  the  sight  ot'  a 
collection  of  thirty  or  forty  of  these 
ovens  in  operation  is  very  picturesque. 
DEERTON  is  two  miles  west  of 
Onota,  and  here  are  found  the  Sable 
(or  Whitefish)  River,  and  three  miles 
south  another  excellent  fishing  ground 


called  Whitefish  Lake.  All  this  dis- 
trict is  noted  for  the  abundance  of  its 
trout,  and  the  Carp  and  Chocolay 
Rivers,  fifteen  miles  farther  west,  still 
further  extend  the  field  for  sport  in 
the  capture  of  speckled  trout  and 
black  bass. 


CHARCOAL   BURNING  AT  ONOTA. 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


the  four  miles  of  road 
that  lie  beyond  Choco- 
lay  the  track  hems  the  shore  of  the 
great  lake,  following  the  curve  of 
Iron  Bay  ;  and,  constantly  increasing 
to  more  and  more  impressive  propor- 
tions, the  traveler  sees  the  great 
docks,  the  substantial  public  edifices, 
the  factories  and  the  beautiful  hill- 
crowning  residences  that  compose  the 
city  of  Marquette.  The  city  is  en- 
throned in  regal  state  upon  a  com- 
manding bluff,  and  the  first  view  of 
it,  as  the  cars  emerge  from  the  deep 
shadowy  forest,  startles  the  traveler, 
who  sees  a  full-fledged  and  progressive 
modem  city  leap,  as  it  were,  out  of  a 
vast  forest,  and  without  hint  or  prepar- 
ation as  if  it  had 

Lay  hid,  as  sleeps  the  music  of  the  m(x)n, 
In  the  plain  eggs  of  the  nightingale. 

Marquette,  the  "Queen  City  of 
Lake  Superior,"  is  by  all  odds  the  best 
built,  wealthiest  and  most  beautiful 
city  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior. Like  the  Biblical  ideal,  it  is  *'  set 
upon  a  hill,"  or,  rather,  on  high  ground, 
ensuring  perfect  drainage,  and  over- 
looking Iron  Bay,  a  beautiful  repro- 
duction of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  which 
indents  the  shore  to  a  distance  of  ten 
miles  from  the  main  body  of  the  great 
lake.  The  streets  of  Marquette  are 
.  electric  lighted,  broad,  well  paved, 
and  usually  bordered  with  great  slabs 
of  serpentine  marble  or  redstone,  as 
bright  and  clean  as  the  best  boulevards 
in  America,  Its  business  blocks  are 
fine,  large  and  substantial.  A  new 
opera    house    block    has    been    con- 


structed at  a  cost  of  ;ijJ7 5,000,  giving 
the  city  the  finest  amusement  hall  east 
of  Duluth  and  north  of  Milwaukee. 
The  business  section  of  the  town  is  in 
the  "  Hollow,"  the  residences  on  the 
circling  hill-sides.  The  correspondent 
of  a  New  York  newspaper  says  :  "  I 
have  never  seen  a  more  desirable  place 
for  a  summer  home  than  Ridge  Street. 
It  is  laid  out  on  a  bluff,  perhaps  200 
feet  above  the  lake,  shaded  with 
double  rows  of  young  maples  and 
lined  with  cottages  of  modern  archi- 
tecture interspersed  with  solid  stone 
mansions  and  square,  old-fashioned 
country  seats.  Fountains  play  on  the 
lawns,  there  are  conservatories  filled 
with  rare  flowers,  there  are  elegant 
interiors  ;  and  yet,  a  mile  away,  is  the 
original  wilderness,  with  bear,  deer  and 
the  great  northern  wolf  in  undisputed 
possession.  The  highest  civilization 
is  in  strange  juxtaposition  with  the 
fiercest  wildness.  The  town  has  a 
high-school,  housed  in  a  large,  well- 
appointed  brownstone  building,  with 
primary,  grammar  and  high-school 
departments  efficiently  conducted ; 
elegant  stone  churches,  a  musical  asso- 
ciation, two  public  libraries,  several 
excellent  hotels,  and  a  ladies'  literary 
club  which  circulates  the  latest  books 
and  magazines." 

What  the  correspondent  really  wrote 
was,  that  the  ladies  circulate  "  the 
latest  books  and  magazines  and  several 
excellent  hotels."  There  is  more  in 
that  than  appears  at  first  sight.  I 
know  several  hotels  whose  owners 
would  like  to  have  them  "  circulate.''' 
But  those  hotels  are  not  in  Marquette. 


28         DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   6*  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


Marquette  has  above  10,000  popula- 
tion, and  this  is  rapidly  increasing  ; 
but  if  population  bores  you  there  re- 
main long  walks  into  the  forest,  strolls 
by  the  lakeside,  lovely  rides  and 
periodical    excursions    to    the     trout 


feet  of  water.  In  this  respect  the 
famous  crystal-like  depths  of  Lake 
George  are  excelled.  How  wonderful 
it  is  that  nothing  sullies  this  enormous 
mass  of  fresh  water  in  any  of  the  lakes 
or  their  outlet,  the  St.  Lawrence!    And 


streams,  magnificently  stocked, 
which  may  be  reached  anywhere  in  the 
woods  by  a  tramp  of  from  two  to  ten 
miles. 

The  drives  from  Marquette  to  Har- 
vey four  miles,  to  Mount  Mesnard  two 
and  one-half  miles,  to  Collinsville  four 
miles,  and  around  Presque  Isle  eight 
miles,  are  all  delightful. 

Presque  Isle  is  the  name  of  a  high 
headland  two  miles  north  of  Mar- 
quette. It  was  deeded  to  the  city  by 
the  Federal  Government  for  a  park, 
and  is  reached  by  a  good  macadam- 
ized road,  built  along  the  beach  and 
encircling  the  point.  In  constructing 
these  roads  through  the  forests  of 
noble  trees  with  which  the  headland 
is  covered,  barely  timber  enough  has 
been  cut  away  to  allow  carriages  to  pass 
each  other.  On  the  warmest  of  sum- 
mer days  one  may  drive  there  without 
being  in  the  least  annoyed  by  the  sun's 
rays  and  without  ever  losing  the  grand 
view  of  the  apparently  limitless  ex- 
panse of  the  deep  plue  waters  of 
Superior.  The  water  appears  many 
shades  darker  than  the  azure  of  the 
sky,  yet  so  transparent  that  one  may 
detect  the  smallest  objects  in  twenty 


yet  the  water's  purity  seems  greatest 
in  Lake  Superior.  A  teaspoon  lying 
on  the  bottom  at  a  depth  of  twenty  feet 
appears  its  own  size ;  it  is  in  reality 
magnified,  as  at  that  distance  it  would 
look  smaller  through  the  atmosphere. 

But  for  the  improvements  above 
mentioned  Presque  Isle  is  almost  its 
primeval  self  as  the  Indian  knew  it. 
Its  shores  are  rugged  sandstone  cliffs, 
broken  here  and  there  by  the  waves 
into  fancifully  formed  caverns,  pillars 
and  arches.  The  strata  are  nearly 
horizontal,  and  the  veins  of  different 
colored  minerals  make  a  singularly 
striking  appearance.  It  interested 
Agassiz  immensely  when  he  visited  it 
a  few  years  before  his  death. 

Presque  Isle  is  even  a  more  lovely 
objective  point  for  a  sail  or  a  row  than 
for  a  drive,  and  it  offers  wonderful 
allurements  for  the  rest  and  picnic 
lunch   which   so   pleasantly   break   in 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


upon  a  rowing  or  sailing  excursion. 
From  the  water  there  seems  to  be  a 
gigantic  portal — an  open  door  through 
the  majestic  cliff ;  and  the  Eastern  eye 
that  first  beholds  it  and  its  surround- 
ings is  struck  with  that  which  I  have 
mentioned  before  as  a  Lake  Superior 
peculiarity — that  is,  the  cleanness  of 
the  sheer  wall  of  stone,  never  smoth- 
ered to  half  its  height  with  the  rubbish 
washed  down  from  the  top,  but  rising 
clear  and  abruptly  out  of  the  pale- 
green  water.  Among  all  the  wonders 
of  this  fascinating  exploration  we  are 
making  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Superior  we  shall  see  few  spectacles  so 
impressive  and  beautiful  as  this. 

This  spot  was  once  the  site  of  a 
flourishing  Indian  village  of  the  Chip- 
pewa tribe,  and  as  these  Chippewas 
were  far  removed  from  their  enemies 
the  Dakotas,  many  of  the  young 
braves  had  never  drawn  bow  or  toma- 
hawk in  combat.  On  this  account 
they  were  tantalized  and  called  squaws 
by  their  brethren  on  the  frontier. 
After  enduring  this  a  long  time  a  war 
party  was  organized  to  wash  away 
with  blood  these  imputations  of  cow- 
ardice. Before  setting  out  in  search 
of  their  enemies,  the  party,  thirteen 
in  number,  appointed  a  young  man  as 
runner  to  accompany  them,  watch  the 
result,  and,  in  the  event  of  their  de- 
struction, to  hasten  back  with  the  tid- 
ings. They  soon  fell  in  with  an  enemy 
four  times  their  number.  Selecting 
their  ground  and  directing  the  runner 
to  take  a  position  from  which  he  could 
see  the  battle,  they  made  their  onset. 


They  killed  twice  their  own  number 
and  then  retreated  to  a  place  of  en- 
trenchment. Enraged  at  the  loss,  the 
enemy  pursued,  fell  upon,  and,  amidst 
great  carnage,  slew  them  all.  The 
young  Indian  runner  was  seen  by 
Governor  Cass  soon  after  his  return, 
and  the  Governor  listened  with  much 
interest  as  he  recounted  the  incidents 
of  the  thrilling  adventure  and  chanted 
his  requiem  song  in  eulogy  of  the 
fallen. 

The  new  electric  lighting  power 
dam  near  the  Collinsville  mill,  which 
the  city  fathers  of  Marquette  have 
constructed,  is  a  typical  example  of 
the  enterprise  which  in  this  part  of 
the  West  leads  much  smaller  places  to 
have  "  whatever's  going,"  be  it  elec- 
tricity or  la  grippe.  Marquette  has 
purchased  the  power  privileges  and 
put  up  a  dam  at  an  expense  of  $30,000, 
and  thus  obtains  the  power  for  the 
electric  lighting  system  put  in  opera- 
tion during  the  past  year.  The  Col- 
linsville mill,  now  fast  falling  into 
decay,  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  iron 
furnace  in  the  State,  and  stands  on 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  of 
the  many  that  beautify  Dead  River. 

FISHING    NEAR   MARQUETTE. 

"  Would  that  Dead  River  bore  a 
name  less  grim,  for  some  of  my  pleas- 
antest  outings  have  been  upon  its 
bank."  So  writes  a  friend  of  the 
author.  "  One  day  my  friend  Phil, 
invited  me  out  trout  fishing  on  its 
head   waters.     Our  outfit   comprised 


so         DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


two  lance-wood  poles  with  reels,  half 
a  dozen  extra  hooks  for  each,  earth- 
worms for  bait,  a  preparation  of  tar, 
carbolic  acid  and  sweet  oil  for  smear- 
ing the  face  as  a  sap  to  the  mosqui- 
toes, a  basket  for  the  *' catch,"  stout 
hob-nailed  shoes,  and  the  oldest  suit 
of  clothes  our  wardrobes  could  fur- 
nish. After  a  ride  of  four  miles 
through  the  pine  and  poplar  forest, 
we  tied  our  horses  to  the  fence  of  a 
farm  house  perched  on  a  bluff  over- 


half  a  mile  above.  The  roar  of  the 
water-fall  sounded  deep  in  the  forest, 
and  the  water  flowed  swiftly,  though 
it  was  easily  fordable.  Here  we  rested, 
watching  the 
gurgling  wa- 
ter and  anon 
casting    a 


TEAL    LAKE. 


looking  the  stream.  Here  we  had  a 
pretty  woodland  scene.  The  river 
valley  for  a  mile  had  been  cleared, 
and  was  green  with  clover  and  wheat 
fields  ;  while  on  the  bluffs,  on  either 
side,  the  primeval  forest  still  stood 
gaunt  and  sombre.  We  passed  up 
the  right  bank  and  at  last,  where  the 
river  impinged  sharply  on  bold  bluffs, 
we  climbed  the  elevation  and  struck 
into  the  dense  forest.  A  perfect  tangle 
it  was.  Footprints  of  deer  were  as 
common  here  and  in  the  open  as  sheep 
tracks  in  a  New  England  pasture,  and 
now  and  then  a  broad  trail  through 
the  reeds  marked  the  recent  passage 
of  a  bear.  We  were  crossing  a  deep 
ravine  by  a  fallen  tree,  and  below  was 
as  dense  a  thicket  as  eye  ever  peered 
into.  Out  of  this,  as  we  crossed,  came 
a  deep  growl,  a  perfect  symbol  of 
ferocity.  We  agreed  that  we  had  no 
call  to  explore  that  thicket,  and  pushed 
on,  coming  out  on  the  river  perhaps 


sprig  into  the  stream  to  watch  its 
bright  verdure  form  a  fitting  wreath 
to  the  lily-like  foam  as  they  together 
floated  rapidly  down  the  amber-hued 
stream. 

"  Presently  we  began  fishing.  The 
method  is  to  wade  down  stream  in 
water  reaching  from  your  knees  to 
your  waist,  cast,  and  let  your  hook 
run  down  with  the  stream.  Phil, 
crossed  over  and  took  the  opposite 
bank.  Presently  I  hear  a  splash  on 
his  side,  his  reel  whirrs,  then  he  winds 
in,  and  in  due  time  slips  a  pound  trout 
in  his  basket.  The  next  is  mine,  then 
he  strikes  and  loses  one.  So  we  go 
down  stream,  meeting  with  varied 
luck,  until,  when  near  the  clearing,  we 
compare  baskets,  and  find  that  Phil, 
has  ten  fish  and  I  twenty.  This  was 
explainable,  as  Phil,  had  broken  his 
rod  and  left  four  hooks  to  beautify 
the  branches  of  the  trees  near  the 
bank." 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


31 


FISHING    FOR   THE    MARKET. 

From    Mount    Mesnard    we 
have  an  extended  view  of  the 
lake  and  surrounding  territory. 
Immediately  below  and  to  the 
north    lies  the    city,  its  streets 
terraced  one  above  another  on 
the  rising  hill-sides.     Iron  Bay 
sweeps  its  ten-mile  circle  to  the 
very  base  of  the  Mount.     Fur- 
ther north  Presque  Isle  stands 
out  in  picturesque  boldness,  and 
beyond  the  "Gitchie  Gummee" 
extends  until  the  deep  blue  of 
its  waters  is  lost  in  the  opal- 
escent paleness  of  the  hori- 
zon.   East,  south  and 
west  hill,  valley  and 
silvery  stream  glorify 
the  entrancing  scene. 
"  Down  on  the 
wharf  are  two 


^f^-^c. 


l^^y^ 


THE   COVE,  PRESQUE    ISLE. 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


33 


small  frame  buildings,  beside  which  are 
huge  reels  on  which  nets  are  wound. 
The  interiors  of  the  buildings,  laden 
with  nets  and  hooks  and  lines,  tarred 
rope,  barrels  of  salt,  ice  boxes,  oars, 
boats  and  barrels  of  salted  fish,  send 
forth  a  fishy  and  tarry  odor  quite 
delightful  to  the  landsman.  Every 
afternoon,  at  about  four  o'clock,  two 
busy  little  tugs  come  fuming  and 
puffing  up  the  harbor  and  are  made 
fast  abreast  these  fish-houses.  The 
forward  hatch  is  thrown  off  and  the 
"  catch  "  of  the  morning  is  displayed  ; 
hundreds  of  gleaming  whitefish,  long 
piratical-looking  lake  trout,  silvery 
herring,  and  now  and  then  a  stur- 
geon, just  to  remind  us  that  we  are  in 
Hiawatha's  land.  The  Lake  Supe- 
rior whitefish  are  perhaps  the  most 
delicious  scaled  creatures  known  to 
the  epicure.  They  are  caught  weigh- 
ing from  three  to  thirty  pounds.  The 
extent  of  the  catch  may  be  computed 
from  the  fact  that  one  firm  in  Mar- 
quette shipped  last  summer  more  than 
a  hundred  tons  of  fresh  fish,  yet  the 
supply  does  not  seem  to  diminish." 

I  am  glad  to  be  able  to  give  an  ac- 
count of  a  day  on  one  of  these  tugs 
by  a  clever  and  observing  writer.  All 
who  love  the  water  will  enjoy  it ;  and 
yet  the  information  it  contains  is  its 
more  notable  feature. 

"The  tug  left  between  dawn  and 
sunrise.  The  east  was  all  aglow,  and 
the  west  dark  by  contrast,  as  we  put 
out  into  the  lake.  There  was  a  twenty- 
mile  run  to  be  made  before  reaching 
the  first  *  pound '  to  be  '  lifted,'  and 
we  found  a  warm  corner  in  the  pilot- 
house, and  with  a  cigar  inveigled  the 
skipper  into  a  chat  that  in  time  be- 
came unconstrained  and  confidential. 
Wonderful  lore  of  the  lake  we  pick 
up  here  on  the  water  from  the  sailors 
and  fishermen. 

'*  This  father  of  lakes,  we  learn,  has 
his  tides,  pulsations  and  heart-beats. 
We  ourselves  observe  in  our  evening 
walks  along  the  curving  beach  that  the 
waters  have  sometimes  risen,  some- 
times receded.  There  are  three  regular 
m.ovements  of  the  water,  old  water- 


men say — a  daily  rise  and  fall,  an 
annual,  and  a  cyclical,  the  latter  oc- 
curring about  once  in  twenty  years. 

"  In  early  winter  the  lake  is  covered 
with  fogs,  and  the  constant  evapora- 
tion so  drains  its  waters  that  they  are 
much  lower  in  spring  than  in  autumn  ; 
but  when  the  snow  melts  and  the 
rivers  pour  in  their  floods,  the  water 
rises,  attaining  the  maximum  about 
the  25th  of  June.  Then  there  is  a 
constant  and  permanent  recession  of 
the  waters,  insomuch  that  in  time 
much  that  is  now  covered  by  the  lake 
will  be  dry  land.  In  the  plain  between 
Marquette  and  the  lake 
on  the  north  may  be 
seen  several  distinct 
ridges,  now  far  inland, 
which  once  formed  the 
shores  of  the  lake.  The 
coldness  of  the  lacus- 
trine waters,  we  learn, 
is  another  phenomenon. 
In  winter  the  mean 
temperature  of  Lake 
Superior  is  thirty-six 
degrees,  in  summer  for- 
ty, a  difference  of  only 
four  degrees.  This 
water,  too,  is  chemic- 
ally pure,  so  that  all 
the  good  people  of  Mar- 
quette had  to  do  to  get 
pure  city  water  was  to 
run  a  crib  out  into  the 
lake  and  pump  the  water  into 
reservoir. 

"  By  and  by  the  boat  approaches 
the  first  pound.  The  square  enclosure 
forming  the  pound  is  set  in  deep  water, 
and  a  line  of  netting  leads  from  the 
shore  or  shoal  water  out  to  it.  The 
men,  taking  the  small  skiff,  row  inside 
the  pound  and  proceed  to  lift  the  net. 
The  water  foams  and  boils  as  the  latter 
approaches  the  surface,  and  dark  backs 
and  fins  and  gleaming  sides  flash  in  the 
foam.  The  net  is  pursed,  then  lifted 
bodily,  and  the  contents — a  fine  as- 
sortment of  lake  beauties,  trout,  white- 
fish,  muskallonge,  suckers  and  a  stur- 
geon— are  emptied  into  the  boat.  As 
we  bowl  along  to  the  next  pound  the 


the 


34 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &f  ATLANTIC  RAIL  WAV. 


skipper  is  led  to  descant  on  the  habits 
and  characteristics  of  the  lake  fish. 

"  The  chief  food  fish  of  the  lakes, 
both  in  quantity  and  quality,  is  the 
whitefish.  He  has  his  preferences 
and  idiosyncrasies,  which  the  fisher- 
men, to  ensnare  him  successfully,  must 
carefully  study.  His  food  is  chiefly 
snails,  slugs  and  limpets  attached  to 
the  rocks,  so  that  a  rocky  bottom  is 
his  chosen  haunt.  In  the  spring  and 
summer  months  he  retires  to  deep 
water  and  is  found  several  miles  from 
shore.  In  the  fall  he  comes  in  close 
to  land,  and  the  nets  are  often  spread 
from  the  rocks.     The  long,  slender, 


SAW-MILL    NEAR    MARQUETTE, 


fork-tailed  trout 
is  the  pirate  of 
these  waters. 
What  the  shark 
is  to  the  sea  he 
is  to  the  lake — 
voracious  and 
ferocious.  He  will  eat  any- 
thing. The  fishermen  found 
in  one  a  pebble  as  big  as  a 
man's  fist,  in  another  an  old 
hat.  A  full  grown  lake  trout 
may  weigh  sixty  pounds,  and 
will  attack  anything  but  a  sturgeon. 
Trolling  for  them  is  a  favorite  amuse- 
ment. The  muskallonge  looks  like 
an  immense  pike  ;  his  food  is  also 
smaller  fish,  and  he  is  also  caught 
with    the    trolling-spoon.     Tb'^    stur- 


geon, now,  is  his  opposite  ;  gets  his 
food  by  suction,  like  a  catfish.  His 
skin  is  black  and  smooth,  scaleless  as 
an  eel's.  A  great  deal  of  the  cod- 
liver  oil  of  to-day  comes  from  the 
liver  of  the  sturgeon." 

MARQUETTE IRON    MINING. 

''  Some  forty-five  years  ago  a  party 
of  surveyors  running  the  west  line  of 
township  47,  range  26,  observed 
strange  variations  in  the  magnetic 
needle,  and  thereby  discovered  rich 
deposits  of  the  richest  hematite  and 
magnetic  ores.  Capitalists  from  Cleve- 
land and  elsewhere  came  in,  opened 
the  mines,  built  two  rail- 
roads to  Marquette,  the 
nearest  port,  and  began 
shipping  the  ore  to  Cleve- 
land for  smelting."  There 
are  now  seventy-three 
mines  on  the  Marquette 
range  which  extends  thirty 
miles  inland. 
From  forty  of 
these  mines 
2,634,817  gross 
tons  were  ship- 
ped  in  1889, 
while  the  out- 
put for  I  890 
reached  the 
enormous  quan- 
tity of  4,000,000 
tons.  Four  large  ore  docks,  reaching 
out  into  the  bay  from  1000  to  1600 
feet  and  forty-seven  feet  above  the 
lake,  have  been  constructed  to  facili- 
tate the  handling  of  this  great  traffic. 
These  docks  are  the  scene  of  intense 
activity  day  and  night  during  the 
season  of  navigation.  Ambitious  lit- 
tle switching  engines  take  the  ore 
trains  from  the  yards,  whither  they 
come  from  the  mines,  and  push  them 
out  on  the  wharves.  There  red- 
shirted  "  trimmers  "  swarm  on  them, 
knock  out  the  pins  that  hold  the 
bottom  of  each  car  in  place,  and 
the  twenty-ton  loads  drop  into  the 
"pocket"  in  the  wharf.  These  pockets 
hold  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  tons.      At  the  bottom  of  each 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


35 


^,V_ 


pocket  is  a  hinged  chute  or  spout 
twenty  feet  long,  which  is  lowered  au- 
tomatically into  the  hold  of  a  vessel 
wharf ed  alongside ;  simultaneously  the 
door  of  the  pocket  rises  and  the  red 
or  blue  ore  is  precipitated  into  the  hold 
below.  Vessels  of  3000  tons  may  thus 
be  loaded  in  three  hours. 

MARQUETTE — A  MONSTER  SAW-MILL. 

Having  passed  through  an  enor- 
mous lumbering  region,  if  we  look  for 
its  sequel  at  Marquette,  we  shall  not 
be  disappointed.  Visitors  to  the 
pretty  Iake--side  capital  will  notice  an 
enormous  saw-mill  by  the 
water  side.  The  idea  of 
visiting  it  may  not  occur  _^  , 

to  most  tourists  but,  they 
may  take  my  word  for 
it,  they  will  find  the  visit 
well  worth  while,  and 
when  they  leave  the 
building  it  will  afterward 
remain  pictured  in  their 
minds  as  the  abode  of  a 
wonderful  dragon — a 
monster  subjugated  to 
man's  control — that 
chews  up  whole  forests 
and  converts  them  into 
building  material  with 
much  less  effort  than  a 
melting  pot  transforms 
metal  into  liquid.  Every- 
thing within  the  mill  is 
done  by  steam,  and  that  is  controlled 
by  the  simplest  levers.  A  tree  trunk 
is  taken,  no  man  touching  it,  and 
hauled  against  the  saws  which  bite 
it  into  lengths  and  move  it  along, 
cutting  it  as  it  proceeds,  until  within 
two  minutes  from  the  time  it  rested 
in  the  water  it  forms  part  of  one  of 
the  piles  of  lumber  behind  the  mill. 

AN  EXTENSIVE  MINING  REGION. 

Back  in  the  cars  and  gliding  away 
from  Marquette,  we  are  quickly  at 
.the  busy  lumber  town  of  Eagle  Mills 
and  four  miles  from  Negaunee,  a  city 
near  the  population  of  Marquette 
(8,000)  and  one  of  the  chief  mining 
centres  in  the -great  Marquette  Range. 


Here  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern 
R.  R.  makes  connection  for  Escanaba, 
Milwaukee  and  Chicago.  Westward 
again  three  miles  is 

ISHPEMING,  the  largest  city  on 
the  Marquette  Range.  It  boasts 
15,000  population,  and  a  number  of 
attractions  that  the  tourist  should  not 
miss.  Within  a  radius  of  a  dozen 
miles  there  are  many  beautiful  lakes, 
nine  in  all,  accessible  by  well-main- 
tained and  picturesque  carriage  roads 
capable  of  affording  the  lovers  of 
horse-flesh  or  of  scenic  beauties  many 
days   of   pleasure.     It  is  one  of  the 


IRON   MINE  SHAFT   AT  ISHPEMING. 

important  mining  regions  of  the 
country,  and  mines  are  numerous  in 
the  neighborhood  of  both  Negaunee 
and  Iskpeming.  These  are  mainly 
iron  mines,  though  a  few  are  worked 
for  gold,  and  as  the  method  of  "  open- 
pit  working"  is  largely  followed  here, 
at  such  the  process  may  be  witnessed 
without  the  discomfort  or  dread  of 
accident  which  attends  mine  visiting 
by  means  of  shafts  and  galleries  far 
beneath  the  surface.  Teal  Lake, 
which  my  artist  companion  has  so 
exquisitely  pictured,  is  one  of  the 
beauty  spots  of  this  neighborhood. 

HUMBOLDT,  twelve  miles  to  the 
westward,  is  the  point  of  junction  for 
a  branch  of  the  railway  leading   to 


36         DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &  ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


Republic  and  the  Republic  Mine,  and 
four  miles  farther  west  is  Champion, 
the  northern  terminus  of  the  Milwau- 
kee &  Northern  Railway — another 
means  of  reaching  Chicago  and  Mil- 
waukee. 


THE    world's    greatest    COPPER 
REGION. 

NESTORIA  is  the  starting  point 
of  the  branch  road  to  L'Anse  and 
the   twin  cities  of   Houghton   and 


L.AKE    MICHIG.'MMB. 


MICHIGAMME  has  important  in- 
terests of  its  own,  and  some  of  them 
possess  attractions  for  tourists,  but 
that  which  is  conspicuously  interest- 
ing here  is  Lake  Michigamme,  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  of 
the  sheets  of  emerald  that  bejewel 
this  gem-decked  corner  of  earth. 
The  railroad  skirts  this  lake  for  sev- 
eral miles.  The  lake  is  seven  miles 
long  and  three  miles  in  width.  It  is 
walled  in  by  luxuriant  verdure  rising 
and  falling  upon  its  hilly  rim,  and  is 
dotted  with  pretty  islands.  Here 
again  is  the  sportsman's  turn,  for  the 
hunting  and  fishing  are  both  excellent. 

Close  at  hand  is  Nestoria,  point 
of  departure  for  the  principal  copper 
region  of  the  world. 


Hancock,  busy  mining  towns  upon  a 
hilly  neck  or  promontory  that  pushes 
its  great  bulk  far  into  Lake  Superior. 
A  ride  of  seventeen  miles  from  Nes- 
toria brings  the  tourist  to  the  town  of 
L'Anse  which  is  beautifully  situated 
on  a  delightful  indentation  called 
Keweenaw  Bay.  The  rails  cross  an 
arm  of  the  bay  to  Baraga  and  thence 
the  course  is  nearly  due  north  to 
Houghton,  thirty-one  miles  from  the 
main  line.  This  city  is  on  the  south- 
erly side  of  Portage  Lake,  and  oppo- 
site on  the  other  shore  is  Hancock. 
The  map  will  reveal  to  you  what  the 
sight  of  this  water  does  not,  that  it  is 
rather  a  strait  than  a  lake,  for  it  sepa- 
rates a  great  body  of  land,  called 
Keweenaw  Point,  from  the  mainland, 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


37 


practically  cutting  the  promontory  in 
twain.  Vessels  of  the  greatest  tonnage 
in  the  lake  commerce  find  depth  and 
room  for  navigation  through  the  lake, 
and  as  Houghton  and  Hancock 
(called  "  the  twin  cities  of  the  Gitchie 
Gummee")  are  the  ports  of  this  great 
copper  region,  from  them  are  shipped 
the  vast  and  incessant  output  of  that 
metal,  the  mining  of  which  is  by  far 
the  most  profitable  industry  in  the 
Lake  Superior  region.  "  Keweenaw," 
the  name  of  this  great  metal-veined 


to  procure  copper  without  first  pro- 
pitiating him  with  rites  and  gifts;  then 
trembling  and  in  silence,  they  lighted 
fires  around  some  exposed  mass  of 
the  metal,  and,  when  it  was  softened, 
they  hastily  cut  off  a  small  quantity 
and  fled  to  their  canoes  without  look- 
ing back.  So  strong  was  their  dread 
that  for  years  the  explorers  were  un- 
able to  obtain  from  them  information 
about  the  Point,  neither  would  they 
act  as  guides,  although  tempting 
bribes  were  offered. 


<?*>- 


HOUGHTON. 


arm  of  land,  is  Chippewa  for  "portage," 
and  according;  to  Picturesque  America 
it  has  a  mining  history  older  than  our 
civilization: 

"  Centuries  ago,"  reads  the  tale,  "  its 
hills  were  mined,  and  the  first  white 
explorers  found  the  ancient  works  and 
tools  and  wondered  over  them;  when 
they  were  tired  of  wondering  they 
ascribed  them  to  the  extinct  mound- 
builders,  whoever  they  were,  a  most 
convenient  race,  who  come  in  for  all 
the  riddles  of  the  western  country, 
and  never  rise  from  their  graves  to 
say  to  us  'No.'  The  Chippewas  of 
Superior  were  full  of  superstitious 
fear  regarding  Keweenaw  Point.  They 
believed  that  a  demon  resided  there, 
and  they  dared  not  visit  his  domain 


Then  came  the  geologists,  unwill- 
ing to  believe  that  native  copper  ex- 
isted in  such  a  locality,  but  forced  to 
concede  the  fact  when  solid  masses 
of  five  hundred  tons  confronted  them. 
Gradually  they  found  that  this  long 
point  held  the  greatest  copper  mines 
in  the  world,  those  of  the  Ural 
Mountains  in  Russia  sinking  into  in- 
significance in  comparison  with  them; 
and  upon  this  discovery  speculation 
started  up,  and  fortunes  were  made 
and  lost  in  the  eastern  cities  in  cop- 
per stock  by  men  who  barely  knew 
where  Keweenaw  was,  as  they  tossed 
it  like  a  football  from  one  to  another, 
and  jabbered  off  its  Indian  name  with 
easy  fluency. 

Throughout    this    excitement    and 


38 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


after  it  died  away,  however,  the  Point 
kept  steadily  producing  its  copper 
from  the  hills  until  now  not  only  does 
it  supply  the  whole  country,  but  its 
wealth  is  even  sent  across  the  ocean 
to  aid  the  old  world. 

On  Keweenaw  are  several  lakes, 
among  them  the  lovely  Lac-la-Belle 
of  the  voyageurs,  and  the  north  shore 
of  the  Point  is  bold  with  beautiful 
rock  harbors." 

CALUMET  AND  RED  JACKET. 
— At  Houghton  a  transfer  is  made  to 
the  cars  of  the  narrow-gauge  Mineral 
Range  Railway  for  a  toiling,  up-grade 
ride  to  the  village  of  Calumet  and 
Red  Jacket.  To  borrow  the  excel- 
lent and  lucid  descriptive  language 
of   Mr.  John  M.  Talman  : 

"  The  novitiate  is  at  once  struck  by 
the  peculiar  appearance  of  the  streams 
which  now  gurgle  along  his  way. 
Their   waters    are   of   a    nondescript 


and  two-story  buildings,  and  sure 
enough  we  are  "in  it" — in  Calumet 
and  Red  Jacket,  practically  one  town, 
the  location  of  the  world-renowned 
Calumet  and  Hecla  mine.  Only  em- 
ployes of  the  company  are  allowed 
in  the  mine — recent  history  recording 
only  one  exception  to  this  rule ;  but 
by  nosing  around  the  surface  (easy 
enough,  a  couple  of  our  party  being 
journalists,  each  with  "a  nose  for 
news  "  and  with  eyes  and  ears  keep- 
ing open  house),  what  we  don't  ac- 
complish doesn't  amount  to  much. 

"  The  geologist — him  of  the  atten- 
uated figure,  two -acre  spectacles 
and  Niagara  whiskers — will  tell  you, 
whether  you  are  aware  of  it  or  not, 
that  the  native  copper  in  these  dig- 
gings takes  the  form  of  conglomerates. 
That  is  to  say,  it  is  mixed  with  rock, 
although  it  is  sometimes  found  in 
masses,  whereas  in  the  generality  of 


HANCOCK. 


tint,  something  between  a  reddish 
brown  and  boarding-house  coffee, 
due  to  their  thorough  impregnation 
with  copper  ore.  Hills,  hills,  every- 
where !  Up,  on  and  up  we  continue 
until  a  cluster  of  gigantic  chimneys, 
something  like  150  feet  in  height, 
looms  up  to  our  view  from  the  midst 
of  a  scattered  aggregation  of  single 


mines  the  copper  is  discovered  in  the 
form  of  red  oxide  or  sulphide  of  iron, 
as  yellow  copper  ore,  or  copper 
pyrites.  Here  the  great  cost  of  re- 
ducing ore  is  obviated,  consequently 
the  expense  of  turning  out  commer- 
cial copper  is  brought  to  the  mini- 
mum. The  mine  is  located  on  a 
system  of  rocks  by  geologists  called 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


39 


the  '  copper-bearing  series,'  and  by 
miners  dubbed  the  Copper  Mineral 
Range.'  This  conglomerate  rock 
ranges  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in 
thickness,  extending  to  an  unknown 
depth  into  the  earth,  and  streaked 
and  veined  for  more  than  a  mile  of 
its  length  with  metallic  copper  which 
is  so  pure  that  it  may  be  stamped 
into  pennies  without  the  intervention 
of  further  processes.  At  this  mine  a 
depth  of  3300  feet  has  been  attained. 
"  The  great  compound  engine  of 
3000  horse-power — stronger  than  the 
two  Corliss  engines  at  the  Centennial 
Exposition  combined,  and  being,  in- 
deed, the  largest  engine  on  the  globe 
—can  supply  power  until  a  depth  of 
4000  feet  or  more  has  been  reached. 
The  vein  is  penetrated  by  ten  shafts 
which  are  connected  with  galleries 
100  feet  apart.  Work  is  here  carried 
on  night  and  day,  except  Sundays, 
giving  employment  to  2000  men  or 
more  and  supporting  the  villages  of 
Calumet  and  Red  Jacket,  whose  com- 
bined population  exceeds  10,000. 
The  machinery  employed  in  elevating 
the  copper  rock  to  the  surface  and  in 
pumping  and  condensing  air  for  the 
drills  is  on  a  prodigious  scale  and  of 
the  most  perfect  description.  The 
company's  stamp  mills  and  furnaces, 
located  at  Lake  Linden  and  Grover- 


ton,  a  short  distance  from  Calumet, 
constitute  the  largest  single  copper 
plant  in  the  world. 

"In  1889  work  was  suspended  for 
several  months  in  consequence  of  a 


most  disastrous  and  all  but  unquench- 
able fire  in  the  mine.  Business  was 
completely  paralyzed,  and  not  a  little 
suffering  among  the  miners'  families 
entailed;  but  operations  were  resumed 
several  months  ago,  and  now  scarcely 
a  trace  of  the  recent  awful  scourge 
of  flame  is  observable.  This  mine 
(which,  in  passing,  is  five  miles  back 
from  the  shore  of  Lake  Superior),  has 
been  truthfully  described  as  re- 
sembling a  section  of  a  rectangular 
city,  having  ten  parallel  main  avenues, 
each  with  its  railroad,  reaching  nearly 
a  mile  into  the  earth  and  intersected 
by  about  thirty  horizontal  streets  a 
mile  in  length.  It  is  a  veritable  sub- 
terranean city,  without  a  parallel  in 
the  history  of  mining  enterprises." 

AND    NOW    FOR    MORE    PLEASURE. 

When  the  return  to  Hancock  is 
made,  as  it  must  be,  the  tourist  will 
find  a  first-class  hostelry  to  be  the 
Douglas  House,  or  if  the  halt  be 
made  at  Hancock  the  Northwestern 
Hotel  will  be  found  replete  with  all 
modern  accommodations  and  com- 
forts. These  two  are  excellent  hotels 
in  every  sense  of  the  term.  Near 
Houghton  the  Douglas  Falls  will  be 
found  worthy  a  visit.  Those  who 
have  seen  the  Bridal  Veil  Falls  in  the 
Yosemite  Valley  insist  that  one  cas- 
cade suggests  the  other.  Also  within 
a  short  journey  from  Houghton  is  the 
Otter  River  which  furnishes  great 
numbers  of  the  grayling  trout  or 
Thymalbis  tricolor  It  is  said  to  be 
the  only  stream  in  upper  Michigan  in 
which  this  coveted  fish  is  found. 
A  writer  in  Outing  says  "  that  a  vis- 
itor from  a  lower  latitude  will  be  im- 
pressed with  the  silence  he  finds 
reigning  amid  these  deep  woods." 
Doubtless  he  will  see  abundant  evi- 
dences cf  the  presence  of  animal  life, 
but  it  is  a  life  hiding  in  the  shadows. 
Even  the  birds  are  songless,  and  when 
surprised,  as  they  often  are,  flit  noise- 
lessly out  of  view.  But  along  the 
valleys  of  the  streams  where  the  sun- 
light comes  in  and  all  the  conditions 
are    favorable   to    the    sustaining   of 


40 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &   ATLANTIC  RAIL  WAV, 


animal  life,  one  may  expect  to  find  it 
abounding.  It  was  so  along  the  val- 
ley of  the  Otter. 

"  This  green  and  sun-streaked  glade  was  rife 
With  sights  and  sounds  of  forest  life." 

**  What  a  covert  for  wild  beasts  the 
brushy  thickets  near  the  stream  and 
the  dark  woods  beyond  did  present. 
Side  by  side  in  moist  places  were  to 
be  seen  the  tracks  of  the  deer  and  of 
their  mortal  enemies  the  gray  wolves. 
Twice  we  heard  the  'long  drawn 
howl'  of  the  night  prowlers,  and  one 
day  as  I  stooped  to  drink  at  a  spring, 
while  wandering  in  the  forest, 
I  noticed  in  the  soft  earth 
beneath  me  the  footprint  of  a 
Lupus.  He  had  lap- 
ped there  not  many 
hours  before.  Two 
or  three  places  we 
saw  where  Bruin  had 
left  the  print  of  his 
moccasin,  but 
neither  wolf  nor  bear 
gladdened  our  sight 
the  voyage  through. 
One  deer  and  one 
only  we  saw  and  that 
was  one  evening  as 
the  shadows  were 
dropping  down, 
when  one  carelessly 
ran  bang  up  against 
our  camping 
ground." 

Between  Hough- 
ton and  Baraga  (a 
lumbering  centre) 
many  fine  trout 
streams  are  passed, 
while  the  lakes  and 
ponds  in  the  same 
section  of  country 
contain  perch,  pick- 
erel and  pike. 

Concerning  this 
branch  with  the  cop- 
per region,  from  Nes- 
TORiA  to  Houghton 
and  Hancock,  over 
which  the  return 
journey  to  Nestoria 


is  now  being  made,  there  are  interest- 
ing facts  which  were  not  previously 
stated  and  yet  should  not  be  over- 
looked. At  Summit  the  altitude  of 
the  railroad  is  1170  feet  above  Lake 
Superior  and  almost  1800  feet  above 
tide-water,  yet  L'Anse  only  twenty 
miles  distant  is  but  100  feet  higher 
than  the  lake.  Portions  of  the  inter- 
vening road-bed  have  a  grade  of  170 
feet  to  the  mile,  and  in  the  course  of 
that  journey  the  Fall  River  is  bridged 
by  the  railroad.  A  gradual  descent 
is  made  from  Summit  to  Nestoria, 


42 


DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &-  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


and  in  that  reach  of  the  journey  the 
Sturgeon  River  is  crossed  nine  times. 

BEAR  AND  DEER,  AS  WELL  AS  FISH. 

Again  at  Nestoria  on  the  main  line 
a  run  of  twenty  miles  brings  the  train 
to  Perch,  at  which  point  the  elevation 
of  the  road-bed  above  the  lake  has 
been  almost  imperceptibly  reduced  to 
800  feet.  The  Perch  River  which  is 
crossed  where  it  flows  fifty  feet  below 
the  railroad  gives  the  station  its  name. 
From  SiDNAW,  the  next  station,  the 
trains  of  the  Milwaukee  &  Northern 
Railway  run  to  Ontonagon,  the  old- 
est city  on  Lake  Superior,  and  from 
SiDNAW  westward  for  thirty-one  miles 
the  route  of  the  tourist  who  is  meta- 
phorically making  this  journey  with 
the  author  leads  through  an  almost 
primeval  wilderness.  The  word  "wil- 
derness "  sounds  differently  to  differ- 
ent ears.  Let  us  read  how  the  place 
itself  appeared  to  Judge  Banta  as  he 
afterwards  gave  his  experience  and 
impressions  to  the  readers  of  the 
American  Angler: 

"  I  had  managed  to  pass  over  the 
entire  ninety  miles  between  Gogebic 
and  Nestoria  by  daylight,  and  had 
thus  been  enabled  to  get  a  view  of 
the  country.  I  had  seen  but  little 
game,  but  from  what  I  heard,  and 
especially  from  the  signs  seen,  I  knew 
that  I  was  in  a  country  abounding  in 
both  deer  and  bear. 

"  But  it  was  not  game  that  I  was 
after.  It  was  trout,  and  I  think  I 
have  written  enough  to  show  that  in 
a  space  of  little 
over  twenty 
miles,  I  had 
found  a  region 
that  would  sat- 
isfy the  most 
exacting.  I 
think  it  quite 
likely  that  if  I 
could  keep  the 
location  of  this 
region  secret  I 
would  do  so, 
but  as  a  rail- 
road    runs 


through  it  that  cannot  be  done,  so  I 
fling  the  news  broadcast. 

"  I  fished  four  streams  within  the 
twenty-two  miles,  between  the  middle 
branch  of  the  Ontonagon  and  Perch 
River,  and  I  think  I  got  all  of  any 
consequence  the  road  crosses  ;  but  I 
heard  of  other  streams,  both  to  the 
north  and  south  of  the  road  and  ac- 
cessible from  it,  where  trout  fishing  is 
said  to  be  equally  as  good  as  in  the 
streams  I  tested. 

"  The  country  is  a  wilderness,  and 
will  be  to  all  intents  and  purposes  for 
a  few  years  yet.  It  is  an  uneven 
country,  its  surface  being  cut  up  by 
small  streams  and  occasional  swamps. 
It  is  a  country  of  thick  forests,  and 
dense  thickets  frequently  occur.  But 
the  camping  ground  is  good.  On  the 
Middle  Branch,  on  Spring  Creek,  on 


A    MORNING    START   WITH    THE    DOGS. 


MARQUETTE  AXD  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


43 


the  East  Branch,  on  Perch  River,  are 
excellent  camp  sites,  with  good  water 
close  at  hand." 

ONTONAGON  FALLS.— At 
EwEN  the  train  crosses  the  Ontona- 
gon River  as  it  has  crossed  many 
another  before,  but  there  are  con- 
ditions about  this  particular  passage 
which  cause  it  to  be  remembered  by 
the  traveler  even  though  he  forgets 
all  the  other  rivers  he  has  seen.  The 
first  element  in  the  pleasurable  ex- 
perience is  surprise ;  the  next  and 
enduring  one  is  delight  over  the 
revelation  of  beauty  that  follows. 
The  train  leaps,  from  not  at  all  extra- 
ordinary surroundings,  out  upon  a 
bridge  nearly  loo  feet  above  the 
beautiful  stream  and  seems  poised, 
as  a  swallow,  in  mid-air.  The  Falls 
of  the  Ontonagon  are  in  full  view. 
The  spray  from  the  falls  glistens  like 
diamonds  in  the  sunlight,  and  the 
watery  veil  screens,  as  with  a  web  of 
open  lace,  the  features  of  the  rocky 


ledge  behind  it.  It  is  worthy  anyone's 
leisure  to  stop  here  and  drink  in  the 
views  of  this  cataract  that  are  obtain- 
able. It  is  toilsome  work  to  reach 
the  bottom  of  the  falls,  but  from 
there  is  obtained  the  best  view  of 
them.  The  railway  bridge  you  have 
left  above  you  has  become  a  mere 
thread  against  the  sky.  Looking 
down  the  stream  you  see  the  falls  in 
all  their  majesty  and  beauty. 


SPORT, 


HEALTH     AND    REST    AT 
GOGEBIC    LAKE. 


Thickly  forested  the  country  still 
remains,  and  lumbering  camps  and 
centres  are  to  be  seen  to  the  end  of 
the  journey  ;  but  something  far  dif- 
ferent from  any  mercantile  industry 
awaits  the  tourist  at  Gogebic.  That 
something  is  presently  to  be  seen 
from  the  car  windows.  It  is  Lake 
Gogebic  whose  edge  the  railway 
skirts  for  a  distance  of  four  miles. 
The  lake  is  already  famous  It  must 
very  soon  be  popular, 
for  it  and  its  vicinage 
tempt  the  tourist,  glad- 
den the  camper-out, 
electrify  the  angler,  and 
bring  health  and  good 
spirits  to  the  invalid. 

GOGEBIC  LAKE  is 

universally  conceded  to 

furnish    the   best   black 

bass    fishing  in 

America. 

Close  to  the  sta- 
tion  of   the    same 
name    as    the    lake 
good    camping 
grounds    are 
found,    but    a 
^        boat  ride  of  fif- 
t  e  e  n    miles 
brings  a  tourist 
to  the  Gogebic 
House    and 


44         DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   6f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


Cottages,  a  modern  and  comfortable 
caravansary,  where  accommodations 
are  afforded  for  more  than  loo  guests. 
A  company  is  now  planning  to  erect 
a  large  hotel  at  the  north  shore  of 
the  lake  convenient  to  the  railway, 
and  to  be  built  and  appointed  so  as 
to  stand  without  a  rival. 

The  supremacy  of  the  lake  as  a 
haunt  of  black  bass  has  been  vouched 
for  by  veteran  sportsmen  who  rank 
as  the  best  authorities  from  all  parts 
of  the  United  States.  A  half-dozen 
trout  streams  empty  into  the  lake, 
and  during  early  spring  brook  trout 
may  be  caught  in  its  waters.  They 
abound  at  all  seasons  in  the  tributary 
streams.  There  is  a  steam  yacht 
under  control  of  the  hotel  manage- 
ment, as  well  as  a  large  fleet  of 
sailing  and  fishing  boats  which  can 
be  obtained  at  reasonable  rates,  with 
or  without  guides.  As  the  lake  is 
fifteen  miles  long  and  abound- 
ing in  exquisite  views  the 
pleasures  of  boating  upon  it 
need  experiencing  rather  than 
describing. 

CAN    THERE   BE   PURER   AIR? 

Aside  from  its  merits  as  a        .     . 
resort  for  sportsmen  and  the 
general  tourist,  the  vicinity  of 
the  Gogebic  Lake  possesses 
advantages    as   a   sanitarium, 
which  have  given  it  a  well  de- 
served and  national  reputation. 
700  feet  above  Lake  Superior, 
and  yet  only  twelve  miles  from 
that  vast  body  of  fresh  water, 
the  purity  of  the  atmosphere 
can  be  imagined  by  the 
reader — at  a  distance — 
can  be  tested  by  the  tour- 
ist on  the  spot.     Add  to 
this    the    fact    that    the 
beautiful  resort  is  in  the 
heart  of  great  pine  and 
hard  wood  forests.     Not 
only  do  they  further  pu- 
rify the  atmosphere,  but 
they  temper  the  air  to  a 
quality   remarkably  soft 
and  salubrious. 


These  are  advantages  such  as  are 
enjoyed  by  few  other  regions  accessi- 
ble by  railway,  no  matter  how  much 
has  been  said  in  their  behalf.  The 
climatic  consequences  of  the  peculiar 
position  of  Gogebic  Lake  are  such 
as  to  recommend  the  region  highly 
to  all  sufferers  from  pulmonary  ail- 
ments, and  sufferers  from  hay  fever 
or  malaria  will  also  find  it  especially 
curative.  Hay  fever  is  not  only  un- 
known here,  but  many  afflicted  with 
that  complaint  have  been  entirely 
cured  within  twenty-four  to  forty- 
eight  hours  after  their  arrival  at 
Gogebic  Lake. 

The  same  writer  who  has  once  before 
been  quoted  as  a  contributor  to  the 
American  Angler,  said  of  this  lake 
in  an  article  published  in  January, 
1889  : 

"  When  I  reached  my  goal  I  was 
not  sorry  that  I  had  made  the  journey. 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


45 


Gogebic  Lake  has  been  too  often 
written  about  in  the  sportsmen's 
papers  for  me  to  consume  time  and 
space  in  any  description  of  it  in  this 
place.  It  is  enough  to  say  that  the  new 
line  of  the  Duluth,  South  Shore 
AND  Atlantic  Railway  skirts  the 
shore  along  the  north  end  for  a  dis- 
tance of  four  miles.  I  went  to  the 
Gogebic  for  the  purpose  of  spending 


The  green  woods,  the  clear  waters, 
the  crisp,  balsam-laden  breeze,  how 
charming  they  were  and  how  surely 
they  made  me  forget  the  pupose  of 
my  coming  !  " 

TOWARD    superior's    HEAD. 

Westward  from  Gogebic  Lake  the 
railway  gradually  ascends  until  Thom- 
ASTON,  the  headquarters  of  the  west- 


GOGEBIC    LAKE. 


my  time  fishing,  but  somehow  I 
changed  my  mind  after  I  got  there. 
I  saw  many  persons  go  out  upon 
the  beautiful  Gogebic  waters,  and 
it  seemed  so  easy  for  them  to  hook 
and  haul  in  the  bass  that  my  desire 
to  emulate  them  eluded  me.  It  was 
so  much  pleasanter  to  sit  in  the  door 
of  the  tent  and  look  at  the  lake. 
Can  I  ever  forget  the  dreamy  fresh- 
ness of  those  days  on  Gogebic  Lake  ? 


em  division  of  the  Duluth,  South 
Shore  and  Atlantic  Railway  is 
reached.  The  way  is  still  through 
a  thickly  timbered  country  and  past 
lumber  camps  and  occasional  clear- 
ings. At  Thomaston  the  height  of 
the  railway  above  the  lake  is  750  feet, 
but  thence  westward  to  Duluth  the 
grade  gently  declines  until  it  and  the 
lake  practically  meet.  At  Abitosse, 
five   miles  west  of  Thomaston,  the 


46 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &-  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


Black  River  is  crossed  and  a  few 
minutes  afterward  the  train  is  at 
Bessemer  Junction,  where  upon  a 
branch  road  two  miles  long  the 
traveler  may  break  the  westward 
journey  by  a  stop  at  Bessemer. 

BESSEMER  is  the  central  point 
in  the  Gogebic  Iron  Range  which 
marks  the  eastern  limit  of  the  marvel- 
ous Lake  Superior  mineral  region 
where,  to  quote  a  better  posted  his- 
torian, "  the  development  wrought 
during  the  past  five  years  by  the 
allied  forces  of  energy  and  capital 
has  attained  the  proportions  of  one 
of  the  most  astonishing  revelations 
on  the  continent.  To  begin  with, 
from  five  millions  to  eight  millions  of 
tons  of  iron  ore  are  shipped  annually 
from  Michigan's  upper  peninsula. 
Furthermore,  within  this  territory  of 
150  miles,  leads  of  silver  have  been 
traced,  and  that  potent  lever  of  civ- 
ilization and  progress,  that  goal  of  the 
ambitious  and  the  restless  and  the 
miser's  pride — Gold — hidden  away 
among  the  dark  labyrinths  of  the 
accumulated  mold  of  countless  ages, 
has  here  been  discovered  by  the  skill 
and  intuition  of  the  prying  pros- 
pector, as  the  pure,  sparkling  draughts 
of  subterranean  springs  are  revealed 
to  man  through  the  discerning  in- 
stinct of  the  lapwing.  No  other 
section  of  the  American  Union  is 
so  wealthy  as  this,  whose  gold,  cop- 
per and  other  mines  promise  to  yield 
greater  riches  than  those  which  daz- 
zled the  imaginations  of  the  Forty- 
niners  as  they  fought  their  perilous 
way  over  the  continent  to  the  glisten- 
ing sands  of  California." 

THE  FIRST  SIGHT  OF  WISCONSIN. 

MONTREAL  is  the  station  at 
which,  300  miles  from  Sault  Ste. 
Marie,  we  pass  at  once  the  Montreal 
River  and  the  inter-state  boundary 
and  begin  an  invasion  of  Wisconsin, 
happily  choosing  its  most  fascinating 
section. 

I  cannot  claim  the  inspiration  that 
urged  his  pen  who  wrote  about  this 
part    of   Wisconsin  in  the   following 


■**i 


MARQUETTE  AND   PREHQUE  ISLE. 


47 


glowing  terms,  but  I  can  testify  that 
he  had  imbibed  the  spirit  of  the 
region  or,  as  the  fraternity  of  artists 
say,  he  caught  "the  local  color." 
Here  is  the  eulogy  :  "  The  north- 
western quarter  of  Wisconsin  has, 
from  time  immemorial,  been  the 
modest  recipient  of  more  flattery 
from  explorers,  hunters,  tourists  and 
health -seekers  than  any  other  part 
of  the  delightful  Northwest.  In 
the   legends    of    the    '  first    families ' 


often  tiresome)  reports  of  government 
investigators,  such  as  David  Dale 
Owen  and  others,  the  palm  of  supe- 
riority has  been  accorded  this  mystic 
region  for  its  diversified  beauty,  its 
charming  lakes,  stately  forests,  crys- 
tal streams,  towering  rocks,  mysteri- 
ous caverns,  spray-wreathed  cascades, 
fairy  dells  and  shadowy  grottoes  ;  for 
the  beauty  and  healthfulness  of  its 
climate,  for  the  variety  and  excellence 
of  fish  and  game— in  short,  for  every- 
thing that  attracts  and  charms  the 
lover  of  the  beautiful  in  Nature." 

The   first  stop  in  Wisconsin  is  at 
Saxon,  where  the  Milwaukee,  Lake 
Shore  &  Western  Railway  crosses  our 
steel  pathway.     In  the  next  reach  of 
the  ride  the  notable  "sights"  are  bred 
of  the  crossing  of  tumultuous  rivers 
upon  spans  far  above  their  surfaces. 
First  there  is  Vaughan's  Creek,  tum- 
bling and  plashing  seventy-five   feet 
below  the  cars  and 
suggesting,  in  a  min- 
iature way,  the  scene 
at  Ontonagon  Falls. 
Two    miles   farther 
west  the  Bad  River 
is    crossed    upon    a 
bridge  that  spans  its 
gully  at  a  height  of 
sixty  feet.   And  thus, 
with  another  mile  of 
journeying,  the  tour- 
ist arrives  at  a  point 
where   he  must  de- 
cide whether  to  miss 
or  to  see 


^^^^^^J^- A-  wP>; 


FXll6.» 

•  Neap  L"A^5e 


ASHLAND 
APOSTLE 


AND     THE 
ISLANDS. 


(the  native  Indians),  in  the  tra- 
ditions of  the  now  departed  pio- 
neers, in  the  camp-fire  stories  of  the 
professional  trappers  and  fishermen, 
in  the  ingenious  fancies  of  newspaper 
men  and  in  the  more  reliable   (and 


MASON  is  the 
point  of  departure 
for  this  pocket  in  the  skirt  of  old 
Madame  Superior — a  pocket  cram- 
med with  treats  and  wonders,  not  as 
unguessable  as  the  contents  of  a 
human  female's  pocket  (for  nothing 
in  the  world  is  to  be  likened  to  that), 
but  rather  like  the  pocket  of  some 
goddess  who  is  not  in  any  mythology, 
but  who  devotes  herself  to  collecting 
and   preserving   the  odds   and   ends 


48 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   ^f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


and  broken  fragments  of  Nature's 
surplusage  of  charms.  Do  not  miss 
the  lovely  scenes.  Who  hesitates  is 
lost.  In  something  like  Shakspere's 
words  in  The  Tempest  : 

Come  unto  these  yellow  cliffs 
With  tiny  skiffs. 

ASHLAND  is  a  place  where  sev- 
eral railroads  centre,  and  you  see  by 
the  mills  along  the  shore  and  the 
great  fleets  of  logs  the  tugs  are  for- 
ever towing  down  the  magnificent 
natural  harbor,  that  there  is  plenty 
of  material  for  prosperity  here.  It 
is  being  well  utilized,  for  Ashland 
is  one  of  the  most  ambitious  and 
energetic  towns  on  the  line.  From 
the  verandas  of  the  Hotel  Chequa- 
megon,  exquisite  views  of  forest  and 
water  may  be  obtained.  Delightful 
and  well  kept  grounds  add  to  the 
natural  attractions  of  the  place, 
which  offers  active  pleasures  in 
abundance.  If  one  wants  a  sail  or 
a  row  on  the  bay  he  will  find  any 
number  of  boats  of  all  degrees  of 
capacity  and  stylishness  at  the  piers. 
There  are  boys  there,  too,  to  furnish 
that  "  stiff  ash  breeze  "  which  the  old 
sailor  once  said  a  row-boat  has  to 
have.  Or  one  may  join  some  of  the 
excursions  going  to  Bayfield  or  out 
among  the  Apostle  Islands  on  the 
natty  little  steamers  that  make  the 
delightful  voyage  at  all  hours  of 
the  day. 

APOSTLE  ISLANDS!  How  the 
name  brings  back  thoughts  of  the 
missionary  pioneers.  Father  Mar- 
quette himself,  "the  central  figure  of 
the  lake  country  history,"  spent  some 
time  here  on  Madeline  Island,  one  of 
the  twenty-four  which  form  a  lovely 
archipelago  in  beautiful  contrast  with 
the  stern  coast  to  the  north  and  east. 
An  antiquated  Roman  Catholic  chapel 
still  stands  at  La  Pointe.  It  was  built 
of  rough  hewn  logs,  and  is  now  used 
as  an  adjunct  of  the  newer  structure. 
The  chief  object  of  interest  in  the 
roorD  is  a  famous  old  picture  that 
hangs  over  the  altar,  and  that  is  only 
interesting  because  of  a  tradition  to 
the  effect   that  it  was  brought  from 


France  by  the  adventurous  priests, 
whose  zeal  led  them  to  this  wild  region. 
Some  judges  who  fancy  themselves 
competent,  have  pronounced  it  a  pro- 
duct of  some  *'  old  master,"  but  it  is 
more  reasonable  to  suppose  that  it  has 
no  merit  unless  it  has  procured  it  as 
wine  does,  through  age. 

The  bay  and  the  islands  beyond  are 
opulent  in  picturesqueness.  Clean 
cut  promontories  crowned  by  lofty 
trees  shoot  out  into  the  emerald  and 
crystal  depths,  and  in  spots  along  the 
shores  the  action  of  the  waves  has 
created  a  series  of  caves,  arches,  col- 
onnades and  pillars  whose  details 
human  skill  might  copy,  but  whose 
beauty  artifice  has  never  matched. 
Numerous  pleasant  little  excursions 
to  interesting  and  picturesque  points 
may  be  taken  from  Ashland,  above 
all  a  visit  to  the  falls  of  the  Bad  River. 

MORE    SPORT    WITH    ROD    AND    GUN. 

Duluth  is  reached  by  returning 
to  the  main  line  at  Mason,  and  after 
a  ride  of  nine  miles  Pike  River  is 
come  upon  and  the  train  bowls  along 
beside  Pike  Lake — a  bowl  of  water 
that  teems  with  black  bass.  A  large 
and  fine  hotel  is  an  addition  to  the 
equipment  of  this  beautiful  resort, 
which,  taken  with  the  fact  that  it  is 
only  fifty-five  miles  from  Duluth  and 
but  a  few  hours'  journey  from  St. 
Paul  and  Minneapolis,  makes  certain 
the  present  promise  that  the  region 
will  increase  in  popularity.  Eleven 
miles  west  is  crossed  the  Iron  River, 
a  famous  and  heavily  fish-burthened 
sportsman's  haunt. 

It  is  a  heavily  wooded,  rolling 
country  whose  surface  the  cars  of  the 
Duluth,  South  Shore  and  Atlan- 
tic Railway  are  now  gliding  over. 
Every  here  and  there  one  gets  either 
glimpses  of  little  streams  that  glint  in 
the  sunlight  or  of  exquisitely  forest- 
embowered  rivers  and  ponds  and 
lakes.  One  of  these  bodies  of  water 
is  the  Brule  River,  not  to  know 
which  argues  yourself  unknown.  It 
is  the  king  of  the  trout  streams  of 
the  region — we  may  say  of  the  Union. 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


49 


For  a  distance  of  150  miles  the 
water  swarms  with  the  finny  beauties, 
and  only  twenty  miles  of  the  great 
recreation  ground  is  private  property. 
"  Only  twenty  miles,"  we  say,  because 
it  happens  that  the  St.  Louis  sports- 
man who  came  there  once,  a-fishing 
and  a-gunning,  and  who  fell  in  love 
with  the  region  bought  only  a  twenty- 
mile  patch  with  the  river  flowing 
through  the  middle  of  it.  Why  he 
did  not  buy  it  all  we  cannot  de- 
termine any  more  than  we  can  de- 
cide why  men  who  have  money 
enough  do  not  combine  and  buy 
the  whole  earth,  giving  the  rest  of 
mankind  the  privilege  of  emigrating 
to  the  moon.  On  beyond,  three  trout 
streams,  the  Middle,  the  Poplar  and 
the  Aminicon  Rivers,  offer  unlimited 
sport  for  fishermen  and  room  and 
pleasure  for  camping  parties.  When 
the  Nemadje  River  is  reached  the 
tourist  is  within  two  miles  of  the 
"  Minnehaha  of  Wisconsin" — the  falls 
of  the  Black  River.  Their  plunge 
from  summit  to  base  is  above  150  feet. 
The  name  of  the  river  we  have  men- 
tioned— "  Nemadje  " — means  the  left 
hand,  and  signifies  the  river  at  the 
left  hand  of  Superior  Bay  as  one 
enters  the  bay  from  the  lake. 

THE  SUPERIORS.— The  end  of 
this  division  of  our  journey  is  now 
close  at  hand.  The  clanging  bell  of 
the  locomotive  gives  tidings  of  our 
arrival  at  what  is  called  "  Old  Supe- 
rior," to  distinguish  it  from  the  proud 
"younger  twin,"  West  Superior, 
four  miles  beyond.  "  These  towns 
lie  upon  the  south  shore  of  St.  Louis 
Bay,  with  Superior  Bay  on  the  east. 
West  Superior  presented  the  most 
extraordinary  of  all  the  wondrous 
records  of  rapid  growth  which  were 
gathered  for  the  world  by  the  federal 
census  of  1890.  What  was  this  ratio 
of  increase  in  the  decade  from  1880? 
Fourteen  thousand  per  cent !  Hadn't 
forgotten  it,  had  you  ?  If  so,  here  is 
the  explanation  :  In  1880  there  was 
no  West  Superior.  In  1890  there  was, 
and  in  1891  there  is;  and  Robert  P. 
Porter's    enumerators    reported    the 


population,  in  round  numbers,  at 
14,000." 

The  Superiors  possess  extraordi- 
nary natural  advantages.  With  two 
rivers,  three  bays,  a  superb  land- 
locked harbor  seven  miles  in  length, 
and  a  level,  gently  sloping  site  at 
the  end  of  deep  water  navigation 
in  the  heart  of  the  continent,  what 
better    can  any  youngster 

amongst  ^  our  cities  boast 
or  want  f  JjR  West,  south  and 
east  lies  2.  ^m>  region  watered  by 
rivers  aH^  and    lakes 


teeming  with  fish  of  all  kinds,  from 
the  *'  speckled  beauties  "  to  the  thirty- 
pound  salmon  trout,  while  the  forests 
remain  plentifully  supplied  with  deer. 
The  Indian  hunters  and  trappers 
derive  a  considerable  income  from 
the  sale  of  the  skins  of  many  kinds 
of  game. 

Many  legends  pertaining  to  the  his- 
tory of  the  Indians  dwelling  in  this 
locality  abound,  and  one  that  I  have 
read  is  uncommonly  interesting.  It 
appears  that  the  Chippewas  imagined 
the  home  of  the  Bad  Manitou  to  be  at 
the  gateway  to  Superior  Bay.  Because 
the  currents  of  the  bay  and  of  the  lake 
conflict  just  there  and  keep  the  water 
constantly,  though  not  violently  dis- 
turbed, they  fancied  that  the  evil  spirit 
kept  house  in  or  under  the  water 
just  at  that  spot.  They  knew  he 
made    trouble   everywhere,    and    the 


5° 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE    &'  ATLANTIC  RAILWAV. 


unexplained  disturbance  in  the  water 
was  therefore  a  certain  sign  that  this 
was  where  he  lived.  In  order  to  satisfy 
the  demon  they  never  passed  that  spot 
in  their  boats  without  dropping  their 
valuables  into  it  as  a  peace  offering. 
By  their  valuables  I  mean  tobacco, 
pipes  and  whatever  edible  delicacies 
they  had. 

How  they  expected  the  Old  Harry 
to  smoke  soaking  wet  tobacco  I  don't 
know,  but  he  evidently  was  not  the 
same  chap  that  we  are  familiar  with, 
who  has  positively  no  liking  for  water 
at  all.  Besides,  our  Bad  Manitou 
rather  helps  those  who  want  to  go  to 
Canada.  At  all  events,  when  the 
Chippewas  felt  too  poor  to  bribe  the 
Evil  One,  they  used  to  swindle  him  by 
carrying  their  boats  over  a  portage  at 
a  narrow  strip  of  land  that  confines 
one  side  of  the  bay.  I  suspect  ne  was 
the  grandfather  of  our  Davy  Jones, 
whom  all  the  sailors  fear,  because  the 
real  genuine  proprietor  of  Hades  cer- 
tainly always  spent  most  of  his  time 
ashore — and  does  now. 

THE    DELIGHTFUL   CLIMATE. 

The  climate,  not  only  here  but 
throughout  the  entire  region  we  are 
about  to  traverse,  is  most  delightful. 
Summer  does  not  linger  in  the  lap  of 
spring  ;  in  fact,  in  this  realm  of  un- 
contaminated  nature.  Miss  Summer 
knows  no  such  dulDious  practices. 
Instead,  she  bounds  away  from  cross 
and  chilly  old  Winter,  and  with  a  sud- 
denness that  is  surprising,  and  a  love- 
liness that  is  indescribable,  she  shakes 
out  her  green  tresses  and  decks  herself 
with  flowers,  so  as  to  more  than  make 
amends  for  the  length  the  world  has 
endured  the  season  of  snow  and  ice. 


Nowhere,  unless  it  be  in  England,  is 
the  summer  so  luxuriant  and  opulent 
as  here.  The  air,  too,  is  not  only  soft 
and  balmy,  but  it  is  spiced  with  the 
tonic  of  the  woods. 

Here  twilight  lasts  in  summer  until 
ten  o'clock,  with  soft  luminous  tints 
along  the  northern  horizon,  beautiful 
beyond  description,  but  exercising  a 
bothersome  influence  upon  children 
from  the  East,  who  can  never  be  per- 
suaded that  it  is  bed-time  until  the 
hours  have  gone  more  than  half-way 
toward  midnight. 

"long    life    and   good    HEALTH." 

We  are  on  the  eastern  shore  of  St. 
Louis  Bay,  with  Duluth's  reflection 
dancing  and  nodding  its  beckoning 
towers  and  walls  invitingly.  And 
cross  we  must,  like  so  many  Leanders, 
without  any  fleshlier  queen  than  a 
royal  city  to  embrace  us.  But  ere  we 
commit  our  bark  to  the  waves  let  us 
stop  and  reflect  upon  the  health- 
insisting  qualities  of  the  pure  balsamic 
air,  clear  water  and  clean  land  that 
have  surrounded  us  for  hundreds  of 
miles  in  an  ever-moving  circle. 

Mr.  Talman  asserts  (and  many  a 
thousand  men  vouch  for  what  he  says) 
that  hay  fever  can  no  more  enter  this 
region  of  which  Duluth  is  the  capital 
than  rheumatism  can  find  refuge  in  a 
statue.  He  writes  thus  feelingly  of 
his  reasons  for  speaking  with  authority 
upon  the  subject :  "  Eleven  years  has 
he  been  doomed  to  suffer  annually 
for  six  weeks,  more  or  less,  the  tor- 
ments of  the — darned;  sneezing  with- 
out stint,  eye-smarting  without  mercy, 
wheezing  without  relaxation,  handker- 
chief-using without  limit,  and  swear- 
ing— no,  no,  no  !  not  that,  but  want- 


MARQUETTE  AND   PRESQUE  ISLE. 


51 


ing  to  swear — without  cessation."  Not 
the  minutest  iota  of  comfort  had  he 
been  able  to  extract  from  life  until  he 
learned  that  hundreds  of  hay  fever 
patients  flee  to  Duluth  every  August 
for  immunity  from  that  frightful 
scourge — doubly  frightful  by  reason 
of  its  frequent  diabolical  partnership 
with  asthma — and  immunity  they  se- 
cure every  time.  Neither  at  Duluth 
nor  at  any  other  point  on  the  south 
shore  has  hay  fever  ever  gained  an 
instant's  foothold." 

DULUTH — ZENITH     CITY    OF    THE 
UNSALTED    SEAS. 

DULUTH.— In  growth,  in  the 
character  of  her  population,  in  com- 
mercial enterprise  and  success  "  the 
Zenith  City"  has  exceeded  the  bounds 
of  many  a  boast  that  a  few  years  ago 
served  only  to  raise  ironical  laughter  in 
the  East.  "  Co-operating  with  Minne- 
apolis, Duluth  has  wrenched  the 
sceptre  of  supremacy  as  America's 
great  centre  of  the  grain  trade  from 
the  desperate  but  no  longer  availing 
grasp  of  Chicago.  This  stupendous 
feat,  high  on  the  list  of  yesterday's 
sheer  impossibilities,  is  one  of  the  in- 
dubitable, everywhere-conceded,  fully 
consummated  achievements  of  to- 
day." 

It  is  a  hustling,  clean,  thriving  city, 
and  one  in  which  you  miss  entirely 
the  braggadocio  with  which  less  solid 
cities  in  the  West  endeavor  to  make 
boasting  hide  a  lack  of  merit. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  g.bout  so  push- 
ing a  city,  but  Duluth's  attractions 
as  a  summer  resort  have  spread  the 
city's  fame  far  and  wide  within  the 
past  two  years.  With  its  delightful 
climate,  where  the  mercury  kindly 
limits  its  parade  between  sixty  and 
seventy-five  degrees  during  the  hot- 
test days  of  summer  ;  with  its  cool 
evening  breezes  that  bring  invigorat- 
ing sleep;  its  remarkable  scenery  of 
woodland,  lake  and  hill ;  with  its  ec- 
centric water-courses  and  its  abun- 
dant sport — especially  for  fishermen 
— the  only  wonder  is  that  its  fame 
should  have  been  so  tardy. 


The  numerous  small  streams  along 
the  north  shore  furnish  the  best  kind 
of  trout  fishing.  The  delicious  lake 
whitefish  need  no  praises  here,  and 
of  late  the  fame  of  the  planked  white- 
fish,  as  that  dish  is  served  in  the 
Spalding  House,  is  co-extensive  with 
a  knowledge  of  good  living.  Feath- 
ered game  is  plentiful  the  year  round, 
and  all  along  the  St.  Louis  River,  as 
well  as  far  back  in  the  tangled  wild- 
wood,  deer  are  still  found  in  great 
numbers,  in  spite  of  the  advancing 
sound  of  the  woodman's  axe  and  the 
ravages  of  the  sportsman's  rifle. 

Duluth's  hotel  accommodations 
are  not  excelled  by  those  of  any  city 
of  its  size  in  the  world. 

The  city  takes  its  name  ftom  a  cor- 
ruption of  the  surname  of  a  noted 
Frenchman,  Du  Lhut.  It  stands  on 
the  north  shore  of  the  bay,  at  the 
extreme  western  end  of  the  great 
chain  of  lakes,  1750  miles  from  Que- 
bec and  1200  from  Buffalo.  Although 
in  age  it  should  be  almost  a  baby  in 
arms,  it  has  50,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  not  only  called  but  is  the  "  Chicago 
of  Lake  Superior."  Its  natural  situ- 
ation is  picturesque  in  the  extreme. 
From  a  narrow  beach  abrupt 


hills  rise  to  a  height  of  500  feet.  Upon 
the  summit  of  the  ridge  thus  formed 
and  on  what  must  have  been  the  for- 
mer level  of  the  lake  is  a  natural 
road-bed  100  to  250  feet  wide,  which 
local  enterprise  has  transformed  into 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


53 


Terrace  Drive,  giving  limitless  views 
of  the  bay,  the  majestic  lake  and  the 
surrounding  country. 

Nothing  about  Duluth  is  more 
beautiful  or  more  surprisingly  unex- 
pected to  an  Eastern  visitor  than  this 
grand  drive.  It  and  the  others  that 
connect  with  it  are  really  what  we  in 
the  East  call  "  parkways,"  —  those 
evidences  of  high  civilization  which 


the  older 
cities,  after 
one  or  two  cen- 
turies of  growth, 
do  not  exhibit  in 
better  form  or  greater 
extent  than  are 
found  to  be  possessed 
by  this  baby  metropolis  of  the  West. 
The  quick  public  spirit  that  led  to 
the  expenditure  of  enormous  sums  on 
Duluth's  Terrace  Drive  cannot  be 
too  much  commended.  It  evidences 
a  regard  for  something  beyond  money- 
getting  and  a  faith  in  the  old  adage 
that  applies  to  cities  as  well  as  men — 
"  All  work  and  no  play  makes  Jack  a 
dull  boy."  This  drive  gradually 
ascends  the  stately  ridge  behind  the 
city,  whence  a  superb  view  of  both 
city  and  bay  is  commanded.  Several 
times  the  pretty  course  of  the  massive 
and  well  built  road  is  interrupted  by 
natural  cascades  and  ravines  spanned 
by  beautiful  bridges.  If  Terrace 
Drive  is  second  to  anything  of  the 


sort  in  America  it  can  only  hold  that 
status   in   relation   to   our  Riverside 
Drive  in  New  York,  and  in  truth,  it 
is  as  well  made,  as  wide,  and  the  con- 
tiguous scenery  is  a  close  second  to 
our  views  of  the  Hudson  and  Palisades. 
The  ravines  and   cascades  which 
so  enhance  the  beauty  of  the  drive- 
way are  accounted  for  in  the  fact  that 
a   few    miles   back    of   the  hills  are 
numerous   lakes  and 
'  ■    '       streams,   and  the   latter 
follow    their  courses  to 
the  brow  of  the  ridge. 
Thence  they  dash  down- 
ward through  the  heart 
of  the  city,  leaping  and 
tumbling    over    rocky 
beds  in  innumerable  and 
beautiful  water-falls  and 
cascades,    reaching   the 
shore  of  the  lake  at  last 
there  to  mingle  with  its 
waters  their  spent  floods. 
On  either  side  of  these 
"  '■  streams  are  deep  ravines, 

some  wild  and  rugged  and  others 
sloping  gently  and  thickly  studded 
with  trees.  Advantage  is  being  taken 
of  these  natural  formations  to  estab- 
lish a  system  of  parks  which  promises 
to  be  the  most  picturesque  and 
unique  in  the  world. 

SCRAPS  OF  EXPLANATORY  HISTORY. 

St.  Louis  Bay,  separated  from  the 
lake  itself  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land, 
or  more  properly  two,  called  Minne- 
sota and  Wisconsin  points,  forming 
a  natural  harbor  of  many  miles  in  ex- 
tent, was  first  visited  by  civilized  men 
in  1632  as  nearly  as  history  records. 
In  1641  Fathers  Daniel  and  Breboeuf 
were  invited  to  visit  the  lake  but 
came  no  further  than  Sault  Ste.  Marie. 
The  first  white  men  to  leave  an  actual 
reference  to  this  territory  were  Pierre 
D'Esprit  (Sieur  Radisson)  and  Madard 
Chanart  (Sieur  des  Groselliers)  in  the 
fall  of  1661.  In  1667  the  Jesuit 
Father,  Claude  AUouez,  mentions  his 
visit  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  accom- 
panied by  several  traders,  and  from 


54 


DULUTH.  SOUTH  SHORE   ^  ATLAXTIC  RAILWAY. 


this  time  forward  a  rich  traffic  in  furs 
was  carried  on. 

In  1679  Daniel  Greysohlon  Du  Lhut 
came  to  the  head  of  the  lake  with  a 
band  of  courreur  des  bois,  making  his 
headquarters  in  this  neighborhood 
for  several  years.  There  is  a  conflict 
of  evidence  as  to  whether  Du  Lhut  or 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  first  es- 
tablished the  old  trading  post  on  the 
south  shore  of  the  bay,  but  in  1787 
the  Hudson  Bay 
C  om  pan  y's  men 
were  driven  away  by 
the  newly  formed 
Northwest  Com- 
pany, the  great  trad- 
ing company  which 
was  succeeded  by 
John  Jacob  Astor's 
American  Company 
after  the  act  of  1816, 
after  which  the 
Americans  con- 
trolled everything 
in  this  vicinity.  The 
early  settlements 
were  not  where  Du- 
luth  stands  but  on 
the  opposite  shore. 

Westward  from 
Duluth  are  the 
DALLES  OF 
THE  ST.  LOUIS, 
of  which  another 
writer  says  :  "  Here 
Nature  is  harsh,  rug- 
ged and  sombre, 
tearing  her  way  in 
a  water-course  four 
miles  long  with  a 
descent  of  400  feet. 
The  banks  are  form- 
ed of  col'd  gray  slate 
rocks,  clad  with  an 
ample  growth  of 
bleak  pine,  and 
twisted,  split  and 
torn  into  the  wildest 
shapes.  Through  the  dismal  chan- 
nel thus  bordered  the  current  surges 
with  terrific  force,  leaping  and  eddy- 
ing, and  uttering  a  savage  roar  that 


the  neighboring  hills  sullenly  rever- 
berate. Here  and  there  an  immense 
boulder  opposes,  and  is  nearly  hidden 
by  the  seething,  hissing,  foamy  waves, 
which  dance  and  struggle  around 
and  over  it,  sometimes  submerging  it, 
and  then,  exhausted,  falling  into  a 
quieter  pace.  Occasionally  the  spray 
leaps  over  the  banks,  and  forms  a  sil- 
ver thread  of  a  rivulet,  which  trickles 
over  the  stones  until  its  little  stream 


ALONG   TERRACE   DRIVE — DULUTH 


tumbles  into  the  unsparing  torrent 
again  and  is  lost.  This  continuous 
rapid  of  four  miles  is  a  grand,  deeply 
impressive  sight." 


MARQUETTE  AND  PRESQUE  ISLE. 


55 


A  BREAK AND  A  RETREAT. 

"  Forward  and  back  again  !  "  the 
dancing  masters  shout,  and  if  we 
may  perform  such  an  antic  in  danc- 
ing why  not  in  sightseeing  ? 

A  few  hours  in  the  cars  after  leav- 
ing DuLUTH  brings  us  to  the  great 
Twin  Cities  of  the  Northwest — St. 
Paul  and  Minneapolis. 

On  our  return  journey  we  bid 
adieu  to  the  main  line  of  the  Duluth, 
South  Shore  and  Atlantic  Rail- 


are  opposite  each  other,  divided  by 
the  Straits  of  Mackinac.  At  St. 
Ignace  a  powerful  steam  ferry  trans- 
fers the  solid  train  across  the  Straits 
of  Mackinac,  landing  us  in  Lower 
Michigan,  where  connection  is  made 
with  the  Michigan  Central  and  Grand 


4#i:^l^^k^^''^'< 


/NEA^RDULuTh 


WAV  at  Soo  Junction  and  embark 
upon  the  St.  Ignace  Branch  bearing 
off  to  the  southeast  for  a  spin 

to    lovely    MACKINAC. 

ST.  IGNACE  is  the  terminus  of 
the  branch  from  Soo  Junction.  It 
has  a  population  of  3000  souls.  Its 
busy  iron  furnace  gives  present  re- 
alization of  industry  and  gain,  but 
there  is  promise  of  greater  prosperity 
in  the  extensive  deposits  of  gypsum 
that  have  been  found  there.  At  St. 
Ignace  was  buried  good  old  Pere 
Marquette,  the  missionary,  whose 
mortal  dust  lies  in  a  great  square 
burial  plot  distinguished  by  a  plain 
granite  shaft.  No  more  appropriate 
burial  place  could  have  been  chosen 
than  one  just  here,  in  the  centre  of 
the  vast  region  that  was  the  scene  of 
his  patient  life  work,  and  whose  rude 
people  felt  the  influence  of  his  ex- 
alted character. 

St.  Ignace  and   Mackinaw  City 


Rapids  and  Indiana  Railroads  for 
Cheboygan,  Petoskey,  Detroit,  Niag- 
ara Falls  and  all  the  eastern  cities 
and  resorts  that  most  of  us  are  at 
once  fleeing  from,  and  yet  reluctantly 
approaching. 

As  the  ferry  steams  out  into  the 
Straits,  there  is  seen  on  the  left  a 
"  mound  of  emerald  heaped  up  in  a 
sea  of  turquoise" — an  immense,  tur- 
tle-shaped island  rising  from  the 
lake's  embrace  300  feet  in  the  air, 
clothed  in  the  vivid  green  of  tree- 
leaf  and  grass-blade,  and  formed,  as 
the  beach  and  winding  roadways  re- 
veal, of  a  soil  nearly  as  white  as 
chalk.  It  is  Mackinac — "  The  Classic 
Isle  of  the  Historic  Straits" — the 
first  view  of  whose  majestic  beauty 
indelibly  stamps  upon  the  perceptions 
of  the  new  comer  a  picture  of  blended 
splendor  and  grandeur  that  well  be- 
comes the  most  popular  and  fashion- 
able watering  place  west  of  the 
Atlantic. 


II  i      /  ^ 


MACKIXAC. 


57 


MACKINAC !— Lest  the  reader 
trip  and  again  stumble  over  the  varying 
spellings  of  the  word,  let  it  be  noted 
that  "  Mackinac  "  and  "  Mackinaw  " 
are  both  pronounced  alike.  It  is  a 
characteristic  French  trick  to  galli- 
cize  the  words  of  any  language  they 
touch,  and  all  over  the  West  where 
they  had  early  mission  fields  they 
thus  spelled  words  one  way  and  pro- 
nounced them  another  in  a  way  pe- 
culiar to  their  own  language  and  mad- 
dening to  the  blunt  and  practical 
Anglo  -  Saxon  rnind.  'i'he  Indians 
doubtless  pronounced  the  word 
"  Mackinaw,"  but  the  French  could 
not  have  been  expected  to  spell  it  as 
it  was  pronounced,  so  they  invented 
Mackinac.  Later,  we  Americans 
gave  the  right  spelling  to  the  name 
of  Mackinaw  City.  But  remember 
that  the  name  is  always  Mackinaw,  no 
matter  how  it  is  spelled. 

Mackinac  Island  lies  like  a  brok- 
en link  between  upper  and  lower 
Michigan.  Around  it  meet  the  waters 
of  the  two  great  lakes,  Huron  and 
Michigan,  whose  level  is  581  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  island  has  suffi- 
cient area  to  cause  a  journey  of  nine 
miles  in  skirting  its  shores,  yet  we  may 
practically  walk  all  over  it  in  a  day. 
It  is  shapen  as  if  it  had  been  made 
square,  and  then  some  giant  force 
had  pulled  each  of  its  corners  a  little 
away.  It  rises  sheer  above  the  trans- 
lucent waters,  a  great  plateau,  200 
to  300  feet  in  height,  wooded  lux- 
uriantly and  framed  with  a  broad 
white  beach.  Its  sides  are  cliffs,  and 
many  of  them  have  detached  or  semi- 
detached bits  that  take  the  form  of 
pinnacles  or  half-ruined  Gothic  towers. 


It  is  evident  that  the  water  once  stood 
250  feet  higher  up  than  now  against 
these  cliffs  but,  as  similar  indications 
are  found  all  along  the  south  shore,  it 
is  plain  that  the  land  was  not  lifted 
up,  but  the  water  has  fallen. 

As  is  the  custom  with  old  villages, 
wherever  they  are  seen,  the  little  orig- 
inal settlement  crouches  at  the  foot  of 
the  bluff  beneath  the  fort — a  strag- 
gling, picturesque  settlement  of  shops 
and  cottages,  churches  and  hotels, 
facing  the  white  strand  and  the  mar- 
velously  clear  water.  As  is  also  the 
custom  with  the  wiser  planning  of 
mankind  to-day,  the  far  choicer  high 
ground  is  being  built  upon  with  mod- 
ern hotels  and  lovely  villas.  Up 
there,  also,  is  the  military  reservation 
of  103  acres,  and  the  remainder  has 
been  set  apart  by  the  Government — 
justly  appreciating  its  unique  attrac- 
tions— for  a  National  Park. 

FIRST    CLASS    HOTELS. 

In  the  hotel  accommodations  will 
be  found  service  for  the  luxurious  as 
well  as  for  folks  of  plainest  tastes  and 
moderate  means.  The  leading  hotel 
is  Plank's  Grand,  an  establishment 
comparable  with  any  on  the  conti- 
nent. The  "  Grand  "  towers  above 
a  high  bluff  on  the  westerly  end  of 
the  island,  commanding  a  superb 
view  of  the  Straits  of  Mackinac, 
whence  comes  an  almost  uninter- 
mittent  cool  breeze.  The  majestic 
building  is  the  first  object  on  the  isl- 
and apparent  from  the  decks  of  in- 
coming steamers. 

The  hotel  is  new  and  modern  in 
all  its  appointments,  having  beien 
built  at  a  cost  of   $300,000  in  the 


58         DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &  ATLANTIC  RAIL  WAV. 


spring  of  1887,  to  accommodate  1000 
visitors.  It  is  the  finest  caravansary 
in  the  north.  The  "  Grand  "  is  650 
feet  long  and  five  stories  in  height, 
surmounted  by  a  tall  tower,  from 
which  an  expansive  and  uninterrupted 
view  may  be  obtained.  The  arch- 
itecture is  of  the  "  Old  Colonial " 
style,  its  distinctive  feature  being  a 
colonnaded  portico,  upon  which  all 
the  windows  open.  This  portico  or 
veranda  is  twenty-two  to  thirty- 
two  feet  in  width,  and  extends  the 
entire  length  of  the 
house,  forming  a  mag- 
nificent promenade. 

From  the  large  ro- 
tunda office  opposite 
the  main  entrance, 
spacious  halls,  running  the  length 
of  the  building,  lead  to  the  break- 
fast room,  dining  hall  and  ordinary 
on  one  side,  and  to  the  reading 
and  drawing  rooms,  and  private 
parlors  on  the  other.  Of  these 
apartments,  especial  attention  is 
called  to  the  dining  hall,  a  mam- 
moth brilliantly  lighted  and  per- 
fectly ventilated  room,  capable  of 
accommodating  600  people.  It  oc- 
cupies the  space  of  two  stories,  its 
vaulted  ceiling  being  twenty-seven 
feet  overhead,  and  the  handsomely 
decorated  windows  in  proportion. 

The  guest  rooms  are  all  large,  light 
and  well  furnished.  Each  front  suite 
is  provided  with  a  private  balcony,  a 
novel  but  highly  attractive  feature. 

The  hotel  is  lighted  by  gas  and 
electricity,  heated  with  steam,  and 
provided  with  an  elevator  and  elec- 
tric call  and  fire-alarm  bells.  It  is 
also  equipped  with  barber  shop,  bath- 
rooms, steam  laundry  and  a  first-class 
livery,  the  last  two  enterprises  under 
the  management  of  A.  Fisk  Starr, 
known  to  fame  as  the  genial  chari- 
oteer of  Mackinac.  An  orchestra 
discourses  music  during  meal  hours 
and  enlivens  the  verandaand  ball-room 
in  the  evening.  The  Casino,  at  the 
south  of  the  hotel,  furnishes  all  de- 
sirable indoor  amusements.  The 
"  Grand  "  is  close  to  the  edge  of  the 


bluff,  and  the  descent  to  the  beach 
is  about  300  feet,  pleasantly  made  on 
a  rustic  staircase. 

There  are  several  other  good  hotels 
on  the  island,  the  leading  ones  being 
the  Mission  House  and  the  John 
Jacob  Astor  House. 

Having    decided    the    manner    in 

which  you  will  be  housed  during  your 

stay,  the  next  point  is  to  consider  how 

you  will  spend 

^  y  o  u  r    t  i  m  e  : 

What   are   the 


GRANDL-HOTEL. 


attractions  ?     Will  your  holidays    be 
agreeably  passed  ? 

"there  is  no  place  so  healthful." 

Lieut.  Greeley,  the  Arctic  hero,  in  an 
article  in  Scribner' s  Magazine  en- 
titled, *'  Where  shall  we  spend  the 
summer?"  names  Mackinac  as  pre- 
eminent in  possessing  the  cool,  dry 
bracing  air  necessary  to  health,  while 
ex-Surgeon-General  William  A.  Ham- 
mond, the  famous  specialist,  long  of 
New  York  and  now  of  Washington, 
writes  that  "  There  is  no  place  so 
good  in  every  respect  for  the  ex- 
hausted city  worker  of  the  East,  the 
banker,  the  merchant,  the  profession- 
al man  and  his  wife  and  children  — 
who  have  probably  in  their  way 
worked  as  hard  as  he  has — as  the 
Island  of  Mackinac. 

"  Every  breeze  that  comes  to  it 
blows  over  the  water  and  parts  with 
its  surplus  heat.  The  air  is  dry  and 
bracing  ;  the  middle  of  the  day  warm 


MACKINAC. 


59 


for  two  or  three  hours;  the  nights 
cool  and  invigorating.  There  is  not 
a  bad  smell  in  the  island;  not  a  mos- 
quito nor  any  other  kind  of  pestilent 
insect.  I  found  all  this  out  when  I 
was  stationed  there  as  medical  officer 
a  year  before  the  civil  war.  I  tried 
it  last  year  on  the  strength  of  my 
recollections  of  more  than  twenty-five 
years  ago,  and  as  the  result  of  my 
experience,  I  am  going  there  again 
this  year.  I  have  no  hesitation  in 
saying  that  it  is  the  best  summer 
resort  of  which  I  have  any  knowledge 
for  persons  whose  nervous  systems 
are  run  down,  or  who  desire  to  be 
built  up  and  strengthened." 

PLEASURE  FOR  EVERY  PALATE. 

Mackinac  offers  as  many  ways  of 
killing  dull  time,  or  making  dull  time 
gay,  as  any  American  resort,  and 
when  I  say  that  I  am  aware  that  there 
are  as  many  appetites,  normal  and 
false,  as  there  are  possibilities  of 
satisfying  them.  I  remember  once 
in  one  of  those  fugitive,  chance  meet- 
ings that  occur  between  men  on  long 
railroad  journeys  (and  to  which  the 
ladies  are  and  must  be  strangers),  the 
conversation  turned  to  a  discussion 
of  the  greatest  pleasure  in  life.  A 
very  young  man  said  that,  if  he  could 
choose  the  very  best  fun  in  the  world, 
it  would  be  a  winter's  straw  ride  in 
the  country  with  his  old  companions 
and  sweethearts,  terminating  with  a 
dinner  and  a  dance,  and  a  moonlight 
journey  home. 

A  very  red-faced  old  man  smiled 
contemptuously  at  this,  and  said,  "A 
dinner !  Heaven  defend  me  from  a 
dinner  such  as  you  would  get.  It 
would  consist  of  ham  and  eggs  and 
milk  and  doughnuts — sudden  death 
in  four  courses."  What  he  enjoyed 
most  keenly,  he  said,  was  a  canvas- 
back  duck  cooked  as  it  can  be  cooked 
only  in  Baltimore  or  Washington,  and 
enriched  by  a  bottle  of  Chambertin. 

"  Pshaw  !"  said  a  dandyish  man, 
with  steel-gray  hair  and  clothing  that 
bore  the  London  stamp  ;  "  give  me 
my  yacht  and  half  a  gale  astern,  and 


give  me  all  the  sea  room  I  want. 
Then,  as  the  boat  careens  and  dips 
her  rail  in  the  sea,  and  the  spray  flies 
and  the  sail  strains,  I'll  throw  myself 
on  my  back,  pipe  in  mouth,  upon  the 
deck,  and  never  wnll  man  dream  of 
greater  pleasure  than  mine." 

"  And  yet,"  said  a  commercial  trav- 
eler, "  perhaps  I'll  be  to-night  where 
I  shall  pale  your  sensations  into  noth- 
ing. If  I  meet  the  men  I  expect  to, 
we  will  gather  around  a  table  and 
have  a  little  game  of  'draw.'  Nine- 
tenths  of  the  game  will  be  insipid, 
but  there  will  come  a  moment  when  I 


will  have  a  splendid  hauL,  .>  partner 
will  fancy  he  has  a  better  one.  We 
will  pit  our  hands  against  each 
other.     The  other  players  will  draw 


6o 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   (5f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY, 


out — you  know  the  rest.  I  would  not 
exchange  those  moments  of  anxiety, 
hope,  doubt,  wonder,  desperation  and 
triumph  for  all  the  dancing  maidens, 
the  Delmonico's  fare  and  the  stupid 
boats  in  all  creation." 

"  I  see  that  not  one  of  you  knows 
-what  pleasure  is,"  said  the  last  man 
in  the  group — a  heavy-jawed,  rather 
dull-faced  fellow.  "  Did  you  ever 
fish — for  game  fish,  I  mean — trout, 
black  bass,  muskallonge,  pickerel — I 
care  not  which  ?  Ah,  there's  a  sensa- 
tion !  You  are  beneath  a  blue  sky,  in 
a  cooling  breeze,  with  the  green  drap- 
ery of  Nature  gladdening  every  view. 
But  you  are  uncertain  whether  you 
are  to  have  any  sport  or  not;  just  a 
little  tired  and  discouraged — thinking 
of  going  back  to  your  camp  or  trying 
somewhere  else — when,  zip!!!  what's 
that  ?  Your  line  pulls,  your  rod  bends, 
you  have  got  a  dandy — a  two-pounder, 
at  least.  Then  follows  one  minute, 
or  five  minutes,  of  keenest,  wildest, 
most  magnetic,  thrilling  pleasure. 
What  is  it?  Will  you  get  it?  Oh, 
thunder!  It's  off;  but,  no,  no;  there 
it  is  again.  Give  it  a  little  line;  reel 
in  steady  and  slow.  There!  see  that! 
a  black  bass — a  big  one — it  leaped  a 
foot  from  the  water!  Oh,  my  friends, 
take  your  dreamy  waltzes,  your  ruddy 
wine,  your  demoralizing  cards,  your 
horses  and  your  boats;  but  give  me 
an  hour  at  a  good  fishing  ground,  and 
I'll  ask  no  more." 

FISHING,    SAILING,     DINING,    DANCING, 
GAMES — AND  PRETTY  GIRLS  I 

At  Mackinac  every  one  of  those 
dreamers  would  find  satisfaction,  and 
so  would  twice  as  many  more  of  dif- 
ferent tastes.  The  wondrous  clear 
water,  clearer  than  ever  Lake  George 
boasted,  reveals  the  fish  that  you  may 
catch  ;  for  you  can  see  them  gliding 
beneath  you.  It  offers  unparalleled 
boating  pleasures,  by  oar  and  sail;  the 
epicure  will  never  fare  better  than 
there.  There  is  bathing,  too — a  rare 
treat  in  the  northern  country  ;  for  in 
Lake  Superior,  for  instance,  I  have 
heard  that  the  water  is  so  chilly  that 


the  sailors  who  work  upon  it  do  not 
learn  to  swim.  There  is  dancing,  there 
are  many  delightful  pleasure  routes  for 
daily  excursions,  there  is  music,  and, 
as  to  the  girls — the  Mackinac  girls  are 
as  famous  as  the  West  is  celebrated  for 
the  production  of  fine  women.  They 
come  to  this  great  resort  in  large  num- 
bers, from  as  far  away  as  St.  Paul,  Chi- 
cago and  Cincinnati — in  lesser  num- 
bers from  all  parts  of  America.  The 
young  men  who  rove  with  fancies 
free,  yet  anxious  to  be  fettered,  tell 
me  there  is  no  such  beauty-show  in 
any  of  the  other  resorts,  but  I  repeat 
the  boast  on  their  authority.  I  am 
not  so  wise  as  he  whom  Shakspere 
made  to  say  : 

"  Between  two  girls  who  hath  the  merriest 
eye ; 
I  have,  perhaps,  some  shallow  spirit  of 
judgment. 

At  Mackinac  all  the  elements  meet 
— the  fashionable,  the  cultivated  and 
the  homespun  beauties  of  the  nation. 
So,  when  I  tell  you  of  the  woodland 
walks,  of  the  row-boats  and  the  sail- 
boats, of  the  bathing,  and  the  tennis, 
and  the  dancing,  and  the  picnics,  and 
the  excursions,  and  then  declare  the 
ladies  to  be  matchless — if  you  want 
more,  not  all  my  travels  will  suffice  for 
me  to  direct  you  where  to  go.  The 
combination  of  scenic  and  human 
loveliness  recalls  that  "  Day-dream  on 
the  Rhine  "  in  the  collection  of  poems 
edited  by  Longfellow  ! 

"...    Where  the  laughing  hills 

Thy  majesty  do  greet, 
And  echoes  call  from  rock  to  rock 

All  through  thie  noonday  heat. 
In  earliest  dusk  the  gathering  stars 

Above  thee  love  to  meet. 

When  lovers  in  the  ferry-boat 

Forget  the  passing  tide, 
And  closer  drawn,  cling  lip  to  lip, 

What  though  the  river's  wide. 
And  silver  clouds  no  secrets  tell 

To  the  towers  on  either  side." 

The  highest  praise,  I  think,  that  can 
be  given  to  that  or  any  place,  I  heard 
spoken  with  regard  to  Mackinac  by  a 
well-known  New  Yorker,  who  went 
there  to  spend  a  vacation  such  as  he 
always  had  enjoyed,  with  varied  sports 
and  pleasures :  "  But  I  had  over- 
worked," he  said,  "  and  was  in  that 
nervous  condition  when  I  fancied  no 


MACKINAC. 


6i 


place  in  the  world  would  please  me. 
And  yet  I  not  only  had  the  best  en- 
joyment of  my  life,  but  I  got  it  from 
doing  nothing.  I  simply  drank  in  that 
marvelous  tonic  air,  and  loafed  about 
in  that  wondrous  placid  scenery  with- 
out a  desire  unsatisfied,  only  dreading 
the  hour  when  I  must  pack  up  and 
leave  it." 

It  takes  a  brass  band  to  make  some 
resorts  popular.  Mackinac  needs 
nothing  that  Nature  did  not  give  it. 

THE    SQUAW    WAV    OF    SHOPPING. 

To  a  visitor  from  the  East,  the 
number  of  Indians  seen,  especially  in 
Michigan,  makes  a  deep  impression. 
They  are  best  seen  and  studied  at 
Mackinac,  where  they  have  a  little 
colony  of  their  own,  and  where  they 
perform  a  great  deal  of  the  work  that 
is  not  wholly  servile.  They  are  the 
fishermen,  boatmen,  guides  and  gar- 
deners of  the  region.     It  is  very  in- 


teresting to  see  their  squaws  at  the 
village  at  Mackinac  in  the  summer- 
tide.  You  will  be  apt  to  come  upon 
three  or  four,  with  their  blankets 
around  them,  seated  in  a  store.  You 
make  your  own  purchases,  go  away 
and  return  in  an  hour,  and  there  are 
those  squaws  just  as  you  left  them — 
still  sitting  there.  That  is  how  they 
shop  ;  indeed,  that  is  how  the  North 
American  Indian,  male  and  female, 
shops  wherever  you  find  him.  They 
like  to  sit  down  and  contemplate  the 
goods.  If  the  proprietor  tries  to  hurry 
them  they  will  leave  the  place.  When 
they  get  ready  they  buy,  often  by  ex- 
changing their  goods  for  those  of  the 
white  people.  Very  many  beautiful 
varieties  of  Indian  work  in  beads  and 
bark  are  to  be  had  at  low  prices  in 
Mackinac,  and  many  an  Eastern  and 
far  Western  and  European  home  is 
decorated  with  these  trophies  of  a 
summer  at  that  place. 


ARCH    ROCK — MACKINAC. 


MACKINAC'S  SCENIC   BEAUTIES. 


From  many  pens  whose  touch  has 
been  inspired  by  the  beauty  of  this 
"  Island  of  the  Dancing  Fairies,"  I 
gather  these  descriptionsofitsqharms: 
The  natural  scenery  of  the  Island  of 
Mackinac  is  unsurpassed.  Nature 
seems  to  have  exhausted  herself  in  the 
clustered  objects  of  interest  which 
everywhere  meet  the  eye.  The  lover 
of  Nature  may  wander  through  the 
shaded  glens,  and  climb  over  the  rug- 
ged rocks  of  this  island  for  weeks,  and 
even  months,  and  never  grow  weary; 
for  each  day  some  new  object  of 
beauty  and  interest  will  attract  his  at- 
tention. 

As  you  approach  the  island  it 
appears  a  perfect  gem.  A  finer  sub- 
ject for  an  artist's  pencil  could  not  be 
found.  In  some  places  it  rises  almost 
perpendicularly  from  the  very  water's 
edge  to  the  height  of  150  feet,  while 
in  others  the  ascent  is  gradual.  Parts 
of  the  island  are  covered  with  a  small 
growth  of  hard- wood  trees — beech, 
maple,  iron-wood,  birch,  etc. — while 
other  parts  abound  in  a  rich  variety 
of  evergreens,  among  which  spruce, 
arbor-vita;,  ground-pine,  white-pine, 
balsam  and  juniper  predominate. 

Henry  R.  Schoolcraft,  who  first 
visited  the  island  in  1820,  wrote 
that  "Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty 
of  this  island.  It  is  a  mass  of  cal- 
careous rock,  rising  from  the  bed  of 
Lake  Huron,  and  reaching  an  eleva- 
tion of  more  than  300  feet  above 
the  water.  The  waters  around  are 
purity  itself.  Some  of  its  cliffs 
shoot  up  perpendicularly,  and  tower 
in  pinnacles,  like  ruined  Gothic  stee- 
ples. It  is  cavernous  in  some  places  ; 
and  in  these  caverns  the  ancient 
Indians,  like  those  of  India,  have 
placed  their  dead.  Portions  of  the 
beach  are  level,  and  adapted  to  land- 
ing  from   boats    and   canoes.      The 


harbor  at  its  south  end  is  a  little  gem; 
vessels  anchor  in  it,  and  find  good 
holding.  The  little,  old-fashioned 
French  town  nestles  around  it  in  a 
very  primitive  style.  The  fort  frowns 
above  it,  like  another  Alhambra,  its 
white  walls  gleaming  in  the  sun. 

"  The  whole  area  of  the  island  is 
one  labyrinth  of  curious  little  glens 
and  valleys.  Old  green  fields  appear, 
in  some  spots,  which  have  been  for- 
merly cultivated  by  the  Indians.  In 
some  of  these  there  are  circles  of 
gathered-up  stones,  as  if  the  Druids 
themselves  had  dwelt  here.  The  soil, 
though  rough,  is  fertile,  being  the 
comminuted  materials  of  broken- 
down  limestones, 

"  The  island  was  formerly  covered 
with  a  dense  growth  of  rock  maples, 
oaks,  iron-wood,  and  other  hard-wood 
species  ;  and  there  are  still  parts  of 
this  ancient  forest  left,  but  all  the 
southern  limits  of  it  exhibit  a  young 
growth.  There  are  walks  and  winding 
paths  among  its  little  hills,  and  prec- 
ipices of  the  most  romantic  character. 
And  whenever  the  visitor  gets  on 
eminences  overlooking  the  lake,  he 
is  transported  with  sublime  views  of 
a  most  illimitable  and  magnificent 
water  prospect.  If  the  poetic  muses 
are  ever  to  have  a  new  Parnassus  in 
America,  they  should  inevitably  fix  on 
Michilimackinac  (the  original  name 
of  the  place  when  it  was  a  trading 
post. — Ed.).  Hygeia,  too,  should 
place  her  temple  here  ;  for  it  has  one 
of  the  purest,  driest,  clearest  and  most 
healthful  atmospheres." 

A  sail  around  the  island  in  one  of 
the  little  steamers  or  yachts  that  are 
plentiful,  presents  a  continuous  suc- 
cession of  charming  views,  but  none 
is  more  striking  than  that  on  entering 
the  harbor  at  its  southern  end.  The 
beautiful  bay  is  crescent-shaped,  and 


64         DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &-  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


its  waters  are  so  clear  that  a  white 
marble  or  a  silver  quarter  can  be  dis- 
tinctly seen  at  a  depth  of  from  twenty 
to  fifty  feet.  Myriads  of  fish  are 
plainly  visible  as  they  cleave  their 
way  through  the  liquid  crystal. 

Overlooking  the  bay,  the  tall  white 
cliffs  with  their  back-ground  of  wav- 
ing forest ;  the  fort,  with  its  massive 
walls  of  whitewashed  stone,  clinging 
picturesquely  to  the  brow  of  the  preci- 
pice ;  the  straggling  little  town  at  its 
feet,  strongly  recalling  visions  of 
Italian  fishing  villages;  the  long  ram- 
bling hotels,  with  verandas  above  and 
below;  the  neat  residences,  with  their 
grass  plots  and  shrubbery,  fountains 
and  flowers,  mingling  among  build- 
ings that  have  been  historic  for  three 
generations;  and,  as  a  frontispiece  to 
it  all,  the  wide,  smooth^  gently-sloping 
beach  of  snowy  sand  on  which    the 


sunlit  waters  ever  play,  all  combine  to 
form  a  picture  that,  once  seen,  is  never 
forgottei). 

"  The  natural  scenery  of  Mackinac 
is  charming,"  writes  Constance  Feni- 
more  Woolson,  whose  admirable  story 
of  Anne  is  a  local  as  well  as  a  national 
classic.  "  The  geologist  finds  myster- 
ies in  the  masses  of  calcareous  rock 
dipping  at  unexpected  angles;  the 
antiquarian  feasts  his  eyes  on  the 
Druidical  circles  of  ancient  stones; 
the  invalid  sits  on  the  cliff's  edge,  in 
the  vivid  sunshine,  and  breathes  in 
the  buoyant  air  with  delight,  or  rides 
slowly  over  the  old  military  roads,  with 
the  spicery  of  cedars  and  juniper 
alternating  with  the  fresh  forest  odors 
of  young  maples  and  beaches.  The 
haunted  birches  abound,  and  on  the 


crags  grow  the  weird  larches,  beckon- 
ing with  their  long  fingers — the  most 
human  tree  of  all.  Bluebells,  on  their 
hair-like  stems,  swing  from  the  rocks, 
fading  at  a  touch,  and  in  the  deep 
woods  are  the  Indian  pipes,  but  the 
ordinary  wild  flowers  are  not  to  be 
found.  Over  toward  the  British 
Landing  stand  the  Gothic  spires  of  the 
blue-green  spruces,  and  now  and  then 
an  Indian  trail  crosses  the  road,  worn 
deep  by  the  feet  of  the  red  men  when 
the  Fairy  Island  was  their  favorite  and 
sacred  resort." 

On  the  edge  of  a  perpendicular 
precipice  of  white  limestone,  155  feet 
high,  just  back  of  the  town,  is  the  fort 
which,  in  picturesque  beauty  of  loca- 
tion, has  no  rival  among  all  the  fort- 
resses of  the  United  States.  Its  posi- 
tion somewhat  resembles  that  of  Fort 
Snelling,  but  is  much  more  romantic. 
Magnificent  views  of  the  sur- 
rounding lakes;  channels,  isl- 
ands, promontories,  forests, 
towns  and  shipping  are  to  be 
had  from  every  point  on  the 
lofty  parapet;  and  the  world 
affords  no  grander  sight  than  a 
sunrise  or  sunset  from  the  fort, 
the  great  globe  of  crimson  and 
gold  seeming  at  its  rising  to 
burst  up  from  the  bosom  of 
Lake  Huron  and  at  its  setting 
to  plunge  into  the  midst  of  Lake 
Michigan,  casting  a  million  prismatic 
tints  of  glorious  light  on  wave  and 
sky.  It  was  of  one  of  these  gorgeous 
sunset  scenes  that  Longfellow  wrote; 

"  Can  it  be  the  sun  descending 
O'er  the  level  plain  of  water  ? 
Or  the  Red  Swan  floating,  flying, 
Wounded  by  the  magic  arrow, 
Staining  all  the  waves  with  crimson — 
With  the  crimson  of  its  life-blood ; 
Filling  all  the  air  with  splendor  - 
With  the  splendor  of  its  plumage  ?  " 

In  such  a  spot,  with  the  glories  of 
earth  and  heaven  unrolled  before  the 
gaze;  where  the  atmosphere  is  as  pure 
as  the  gales  that  wandered  over  pri- 
meval paradise;  where  the  tempera- 
ture is  always  cool  enough  to  be 
bracing  and  invigorating  ;  where  a 
mosquito  never  was  seen,  nor  malaria 
ever  known;  where  the  inducements 


MACKINAC'S  SCENIC  BEAUTIES. 


65 


tc  constant  exercise  of  every  sense 
and  sinew  are  as  boundless  as  the 
beauties  of  the  place,  and  where  the 
healing  fragrance  of  the  pine,  the 
hemlock  and  balsam  fir  are  borne  on 
every  breeze,  dyspepsia,  languor  and 
low  spirits  take  flight,  and  as  the  poet 
might  have  said  with  more  truth  than 
most  poetry,  "  hay  fevers  cease  from 
troubling  and  the  asthma  is  at  rest." 
The  querulous  invalid,  before   he 


knows  it,  finds  himself  boating,  fishing, 
strolling,  flirting  like  a  Harvard  fresh- 
man. Well  might  Horace  Mann, 
writing  of  the  influence  of  "  the 
wonderful  isle"  say,  "I  never  breathed 
such  an  air  before.  I  think  this  must 
be  some  that  came  clear  out  of  Eden 
and  did  not  get  cursed  ;"  suggesting 
the  thought  that  however  we  lament 
"  Paradise  Lost,"  we  here  behold  the 
veritable  "Paradise  Regained." 


SPECIAL  FEATURES  AT  MACKINAC- 


FORTS  MACKINAC  AND  HOLMES. 

Fort  Mackinac,  which  stands  on 
a  rocky  eminence  above  the  town, 
was  built  by  the  English  in  1780. 
The  buildings  are  a  hospital,  outside 
the  wall  and  east  of  the  fort  ;  a 
guard-house,  near  the  south  gate ; 
officers'  quarters  on  the  hill  near  the 
flag-staff ;  quarters  for  the  men  in 
the  centre;  block-houses  on  the  walls; 
magazine  in  the  hollow,  not  far  from 
the  south  gate  ;  store-houses,  offices, 


LOVER  S    LEAP. 


etc.  There  are  persons  yet  living 
on  the  island  who,  during  the  troub- 
les of  1 814,  took  refuge  in  these  self- 
same block-houses.  In  the  rear  of 
the  fort  is  the  parade  ground,  and 


the  spot  where  Captain  Roberts  plant- 
ed his  guns  in  181 2,  while  his  whole 
force  of  Indians  was  concealed  in  the 
adjacent  thickets.  Capt.  Roberts  dis- 
embarked at  British  Landing,  marched 
across  the  island,  and  took  up  his 
station  at  this  point  without  being 
discovered. 

Half  or  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
behind  Fort  Mackinac,  on  the  crown- 
ing point  of  the  island,  is  Fort 
Holmes,  built  soon  after  the  British 
captured  the  post  in  181 2.  Each 
citizen  was  compelled  to  give  three 
days'  work  toward  its  construction. 
The  excavation  encircling  the  earth- 
works was  originally  broader  and 
deeper  than  now.  The  place  of  the 
gate  is  seen  on  the  east  side,  one  of 
the  posts  yet  remaining  to  mark  its 
position.  In  the  centre  of  the  fort 
was  erected  a  huge  block-house,  be- 
neath which  was  the  magazine.  Near 
the  gate  was  the  entrance  to  several 
underground  cellars,  which  have  now 
caved  in.  The  fort  was  defended 
by  what  we  would  now  call  "  pop- 
guns," the  largest  of  which  was  only 
an  eighteen-pounder.  History  shows 
this  fort  to  have  been  considered  a 
very  remarkable  and  formidable  de- 
fense in  its  time.  Its  first  name  was 
Fort  George,  but  when  it  became  an 
American  possession  it  was  re-named 
in  honor  of  Major  Holmes,  a  hero 
who  fell  at  Early's  Farm. 

Robinson's  folly. 

Robinson's  Folly  is  just  that  and 
nothing  more.  As  is  so  often  the 
case  where  landmarks  that  acquire 
names  existent  long  before  they  are 
written,  the  origin  of  the  name  is 
hopelessly  hazy.  One  legend  has  it 
that  "Captain  Robinson,  a  great  ad- 
mirer of  the  ladies,  while  strolling  in 


SPECIAL   FEATURES  AT  MACKINAC. 


67 


the  woods  suddenly  beheld  a  few 
rods  before  him  a  beautiful  girl,  who 
retreated  as  fast  as  he  approached, 
until  finally  she  stood  almost  on  the 
edge  of  the  cliff,  and  in  his  eagerness 
to  capture,  as  well  as  to  save  her 
from  that  death  which  would  have 
been  preferable  to  his  intentions,  the 
captain  sprang  forward  to  seize  her, 
but  just  as  he  clutched  her  arm,  she 
threw  herself  forward  into  the  chasm, 
dragging  her  tormentor  and  would-be 
saviour  with  her.  His  body  alone 
was  found.  He  was  long  mourned 
by  his  men  and  brother  officers,  until 
by  and  by  it  began  to  be  whispered 
that  the  captain  had  indulged  too 
freely  in  the  fine  old  French  brandy 
that  the  fur  traders  brought  up  from 
Montreal,  and  the  lady  was  a  mere 
ignis  fatuus  of  his  excited  imagina- 
tion, but  the  mantle  of  sentiment  has 
been  thrown  over  the  tragedy,  and 
a  romantic  explanation  given  in  its 
place." 

Another  legend  is  that  after  the 
removal  of  the  fort  to  the  island  in 
1780,  Captain  Robinson,  then  in 
command,  had  a  summer  house  built 
upon  the  cliff,  which  soon  became  a 
frequent  resort  for  himself  and  broth- 
er officers  who,  with  pipes,  cigars  and 
wine,  whiled  many  an  hour  pleasantly 
away.  After  a  few  years,  by  the  ac- 
tion of  the  elements,  a  portion  of  the 
cliff,  together  with  the  house,  fell  to 
the  base  of  the  rock,  which  disastrous 
event  gave  rise  to  the  name.  The 
brow  of  this  cliff  is  127  feet  high. 

FAIRY    ARCH. 

Fairy  Arch,  a  little  to  the  north 
of  this,  stands  out  boldly  near  the 
base  of  an  immense  rock,  and  is  well 
worth  a  visit.  Words  cannot  fully 
describe  the  novelty  and  beauty  of 
this  eccentricity  of  Nature  or  the 
sensations  it  produces.  It  is  a  mag- 
nificent natural  arch,  spanning  a 
chasm  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet  in 
height,  and  forty  or  fifty  in  width. 
Its  summit  is  149  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  lake.  Its  abutments  are 
composed  of    calcareous   rock,   and 


the  opening  underneath  the  arch  has 
been  produced  by  the  falling  down 
of  the  great  masses  of  rock  now  to 
be  seen  upon  the  beach  below.  A 
path  to  the  right  leads  to  th.e  brink 
of  the  arch,  whence  the  visitor,  if 
sufficiently  reckless,  may  pass  to  its 
summit,  which  is  about  three  feet  in 
width.  Here  we  see  twigs  of  cedar 
growing  out  of  what  appears  to  be 
solid  rock,  while  in  the  rear  and  on 
either  hand  the  lofty  eminence  is 
clothed  with  trees  and  shrubbery — 
maple,  birch,  poplar,  cedar  and  bal- 
sam. Before  us  are  the  majestic 
waters  of  Lake  Huron,  dotted  in  the 
distance  with  islands.  We  may  now 
descend  through  the  great  chasm, 
"  arched  by  the  hand  of  God,"  and 
at  the  base  of  the  projecting  angle 
of  the  main  rock  find  a  second  arch 
less  magnificent,  but  no  less  curious 
and  wonderful.  From  the  beach  be- 
low the  view  is  very  grand  and  im- 
posing. 

It  is  held  that  the  portion  support- 
ing the  arch  on  the  north  side,  and 
the  curve  of  the  arch  itself,  are  com- 
paratively fragile,  and  cannot  for  a 
long  period  resist  the  action  of  rains 
and  frosts,  which,  in  this  latitude,  and 
on  a  rock  thus  constituted,  produce 
great  ravages  every  season.  The 
arch,  which  on  one  side  now  connects 
this  abutment  with  the  main  cliff, 
will  soon  be  destroyed,  as  well  as  the 
abutment  itself,  and  the  whole  be 
precipitated  into  the  lake. 

SUGAR    LOAF    ROCK. 

The  plateau  upon  which  Sugar 
Loaf  Rock  stands  is  150  fset  high, 
while  the  summit  of  the  rock  is  284 
feet  above  the  lake.  Its  composition 
is  the  same  as  that  of  Arch  Rock. 
Its  shape  is  conical,  and  from  its  crev- 
ices grow  a  few  vines  and  cedars. 
It  is  cavernous,  and  in  the  north  side 
is  an  opening  sufficient  to  admit  sev- 
eral persons.  The  view  from  the  top 
is  exquisite.  Half  a  mile  to  the  rear 
of  the  fort,  and  only  a  short  distance 
to  the  right  of  the  road  leading  to 
Early's  Farm,  is 


68 


DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


SKULL    ROCK, 

noted  as  the  place  in  which  Alexan- 
der Henry  was  secreted  by  the  Chip- 
pewa chief,  Wawatan,  after  the  mas- 
sacre of  the  British  garrison  at  Old 
Mackinaw.  Near  the  house  now  oc- 
cupied by  Mr.  Early  is  that  relic  of 
1812,  the  old  Dousman  house,  across 
the  road  from  which  is  the  battle- 
ground. A  short  distance  down  the 
road  leading  through  this  farm  is 

BRITISH    LANDING, 

where  Captain  Roberts  disembarked 
a  force  of  English,  French  and  In- 
dians to  take  the  island  in  181 2.  The 
Americans,  under  Col.  Croghan,  also 
landed  at  this  same  place  in  August, 
1814,  under  cover  of  the  guns  of  the 
squadron,  and  marched  to  the  edge 
of  the  clearing,  now  Early's  Farm. 
But  the  enemy  were  in  waiting,  and 
hardly  had  he  reached  the  scene  when 
a  fire  was  opened  upon  him,  and  the 
woods  on  every  side  literally  swarmed 
with  savages.  He  was  obliged  to  re- 
treat, with  the  loss  of  Major  Holmes 
and  several  men.  To  the  right  of 
British  Landing  is  the  road  through 
the  woods  to 

scott's  cave, 

which  is  under  one  of  the  huge  rocks 
peculiar  to  Mackinac.  Its  entrance 
is  very  low,  but  in  the  interior  a  giant 
might  stand  erect.  Unless  provided 
with  a  candle  or  lantern,  the  visitor 
will  find  himself  in  almost  total  dark- 
ness. 

THE    devil's    kitchen. 

Leaving  the  town  at  its  western  ex- 
tremity, and  following  the  foot-path 
around  the  brow  of  the  high  bluffs 
which  bound  the  southwestern  side 
of  the  island,  for  about  a  mile,  then, 
descending  a  zig-zag  stair,  you  come 
to  the  Devil's  Kitchen,  a  cavernous 
rock,  curious  in  its  formation  as  well 
as  its  name.  Near  it  is  a  spring  of 
clear,  cold  water.  The  road  along  the 
beach  should  be  avoided  as  it  is 
utterly  impracticable.  A  few  yards 
further  on  is  the  famous 


LOVER  S    LEAP. 

The  Lover's  Leap,  about  a  mile 
west  of  the  village,  is  a  high,  perpen- 
dicular Itluff,  rising  sheer  from  the 
lake  nearly  200  feet.  The  legend  that 
gives  the  giant  cliff  its  name  is 
of  a  young  Ojibway  girl  and  her 
warrior  love.  You  who  have  not 
seen  the  noble  red  man  and  his  squaw 
will  perhaps  find  a  great  deal  more 
poetry  and  charm  in  the  legend  than 
those  of  us  who  have  made  the  ac- 
quaintance of  the  various  tribes  from 
Hudson  Bay  to  the  Apache  country. 
The  Ojibway  girl's  name  was  Me-che- 
ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua,  and  you  will 
please  remember  that  it  was  with  no 
hope  of  ever  changing  it  that  she  fell 
in  love  with  Ge-niw-e-gwon,  the  val- 
iant brave,  for  marriage  does  not  offer 
that  boon  to  the  Indian  girl.  At  all 
events,  she  often  wandered  to  this 
cliff  and  gazed  from  its  dizzy  heights, 
and  witnessed  the  receding  canoes  of 
the  large  war  parties  of  the  combined 
bands  of  the  Ojibways  and  Ottawas 
speeding  south,  seeking  fame  and 
scalps. 

And  it  is  recorded  that  she  sang 
the  Ojibway  love-song,  running  like 
this: 

"  A  loon,  I  thought,  was  looming, 
A  loon,  I  thought,  was  looming, 
Why  !  it  is  he,  my  lover  ! 
Why  !  it  is  he,  my  lover  ! 
His  paddle  in  the  waters  gleaming, 
His  paddle  in  the  waters  gleaming." 

Those  Indian  songs  are  pretty  only 
when  you  can't  hear  them,  by  the 
way,  and  it  happened  that  when  she 
sang  the  brave  she  loved  was  far 
enough  away  to  feel  no  disturbance 
from  the  music.  The  tale  goes  on  to 
say  that  she  could  distinguish  his 
cries  amid  the  shouts  of  the  returning 
warriors  ;  but  one  day  she  missed  his 
voice,  for  an  enemy's  arrow  had 
pierced  his  heart,  and  after  his  body 
had  been  placed  against  a  tree,  facing 
his  enemies,  the  rest  of  the  tribe  left 
him  and  came  home.  The  heart  of 
the  girl  with  the  long  name  hushed 
its  beatings,  and  all  its  warm  emotions 
were  chilled  and  dead.  The  spirit  of 
her   beloved  warrior   she    witnessed 


SPECIAL   FEATURES  AT  MACKINAC. 


69 


continually  beckoning  her  to  follow 
him  to  the  happy  hunting  grounds. 
He  appeared  to  her  in  human  shape, 
but  was  invisible  to  others  of  his  tribe. 
One  morning  her  body  was  found 
mangled  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff. 
The  soul  had  thrown  aside  its  cover- 
ing of  earth  and  gone  to  join  the 
spirit  of  her  beloved  brave ;  and  there 
to-day,  forgetful  of  the  dear,  dirty 
girl  with  the  broadgauge  name,  the 
young  people  of  to-day  land  in  boats 
and  picnic  while  modern  braves  in 
blazers  sing,  as  Dibdin  did  of  old  : 

"  'Twas  post  meridian  half  past  four. 
By  signal  I  from  Nancy  parted." 

The  fascinating  yet  unwholesome 
shadow  of  legendary  sadness  melts  in 
the  glamour  of  nineteenth  century  dolce 
far  niente. 


CHIMNEY    ROCK 

is  a  very  remarkable  freak  of  Nature. 
A  foot-path  which  leads  from  the 
beach  near  the  base  of  Lover's  Leap 
to  the  plateau  above  brings  you  to 
the  Davenport  farm,  now  owned  by 
the  Mackinac  Island  Summer  Re- 
sort Association,  where  a  miniature 
village  of  elegant  summer  cottages 
has  been  built,  to  which  additions 
are  made  each  season.  A  central 
building  is  used  as  a  dining  hall,  from 
which  meals  are  furnished  at  very 
near  cost.  Eighty  acres  have  been 
neatly  laid  out  and  platted,  and  lots 
for  the  erection  of  cottages  can  be  pur- 
chased on  very  advantageous  terms. 
Improvements  alreadyaggregate  many 
thousands  of  dollars. 


A   CRADLE   OF   HISTORY. 


The  history  that  we  venerate  as 
patriots  is  juvenile  compared  with 
the  chronicles  and  legends  that  dis- 
tinguish Mackinac  and  its  neighbor- 
hood. When  all  Southern  Michigan 
yet  lacked  its  Marquette  or  its  Stanley, 
Mackinac  was  a  missionary  seat,  a 
trader's  post  and  a  garrisoned  strong- 
hold. From  Mackinac  colonization 
spread  throughout  the  surrounding 
territory,  Wisconsin  and  even  Minne- 
sota being  settled  by  men  who  started 
from  this  citadel  of  progress.  Cadil- 
lac, founder  of  Detroit  (in  1701),  had 
long  commanded  at  Mackinac.  Men 
alive  to-day  recall  when  Chicago  drew 
her  supplies  from  this  place.  This 
was  by  no  chance  or  trick  of  destiny. 
Mackinac  is  a  historical  centre  be- 
cause it  is  a  geographical  centre.  Na- 
ture alone  gave  it  its  advantages,  and 
made  it  what  it  has  been  in  history. 

The  flags  of  three  great  nations  have 
successively  floated  over  the  post  at 
Michilimackinac,  which  has  been  the 
theatre  of  many  a  bloody  tragedy.  Its 
possession  has  been  disputed  by  pow- 
erful nations,  and  its  internal  peace 
has  continually  been  made  the  sport 
of  Indian  treachery  and  Caucasian  du- 
plicity. One  day  chanting  Te  Deums 
beneath  the  ample  folds  of  the  fieiir- 
de-lis,  next  yielding  to  the  power  of 
the  British  Lion,  now  it  rests  peace- 
fully as  the  stars  and  stripes  float  over 
its  verdant  battlements.  Its  historical 
associations  render  it  classic  ground, 
and  the  many  wild  traditions  peopling 
each  rock  and  glen  with  spectral  habi- 
tants combine  to  throw  around  Mack- 
inac an  interest  and  sentimental  at- 
tractiveness such  as  few,  if  any,  other 
places  on  the  Western  Continent 
possess. 

As  far  back  as  history  begins  to 
blend  with  traditions  that  reach  into 


the  dimmest  past,  Mackinac  Island 
has  been  a  place  of  great  interest.  A 
legend  relates  that  a  large  number  of 
Indians  were  once  assembled  at  Point 
St.  Ignace,  now  the  eastern  terminus 
of  the  DuLUTH,  South  Shore  and 
Atlantic  Railway,  and  while  in- 
tently gazing  at  the  rising  sun,  during 
the  great  Manitou,  or  February  Moon, 
they  beheld  the  island  suddenly  rise 
up  from  the  water,  assuming  its  pres- 
ent form.  From  the  point  of  observ- 
ation it  bore  the  fancied  resemblance 
to  the  back  of  a  huge  turtle  ;  hence 
they  called  it  by  the  name  of  Mos- 
che-ne-mac-e-nung,  which  means  a 
great  turtle.  This  name,  when  put 
into  a  French  dress,  became  Michili- 
mackinac, to  be  in  turn  again  abbre- 
viated by  the  always  practical  English 
into  Mackinac  and  Mackinaw. 

According  to  Indian  tradition,  the 
island  is  the  birthplace  of  Menabosho, 
the  god  of  waters — the  Hiawatha  of 
the  Algonquin  Indians.  Indian  my- 
thology makes  it  the  home  of  the  Giant 
Fairies,  and  the  red  men,  in  passing  its 
shores,  made  offerings  of  tobacco  and 
other  articles  to  these  spirits.  These 
fairies,  we  are  told,  had  a  subterranean 
abode  under  the  island,  the  entrance 
to  which  was  near  the  base  of  the  hill, 
just  below  the  present  southern  gate 
of  the  fort.  An  old  Indian,  who  once 
revisited  the  limits  of  the  present 
garrison,  was  believed  by  his  kinsmen 
to  have  had  exceptional  opportunity 
to  prove  the  truth  of  this  tradition. 
These  were  the  circumstances :  During 
the  night,  while  he  was  wrapped  in 
slumber,  one  of  the  spirits  laid  his 
shadowy  hand  upon  him  and  beck- 
oned him  to  follow.  In  obedience  to 
the  mysterious  request,  the  Indian's 
soul  parted  from  his  body  and  went 
with  the  fairy.    Together  they  entered 


A    CRADLE  OF  HISTORY, 


71 


the  mystic  dwelling  place  of  the 
spirits,  and  the  Indian  was  introduced 
to  the  great  spirits  assembled  in 
solemn  conclave.  He  was  lost  in 
wonder  and  admiration  at  what  he 
saw  around  him,  and  he  described 
the  place  where  they  were  assembled 
as  a  very  large  and  beautiful  wigwam. 
Beyond  that,  he  simply  asserted  that, 
after  a  time,  the  master  spirit  of  the 
assembly  directed  one  of  the  lesser 
spirits  to  conduct  him  back  to  his 
body.  The  story  is  chiefly  interesting 
to  me  as  showing  that  it  was  as  easy 
to  concoct  a  spiritualistic  story  then 
as  it  is  to-day — and  just  as  easy  to 
make  some  folks  believe  it  afterwards! 

The  "Ancient  Miners"  of  Upper 
Michigan,  presumably  connected  with 
the  "  Mound-builders  "  of  the  Missis- 
sippi Valley,  and  with  the  Toltecs  and 
Aztecs  of  Old  Mexico,  may  have  had 
an  agricultural  outpost  at  St.  Ignace 
or  Mackinac  Island.  The  vestiges  of 
a  mound  have  been  traced  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Point  La  Barbe. 
No  tradition,  however,  referring  to 
that  people,  is  found  among  our 
Indians. 

In  167 1,  Father  Marquette,  pioneer 
and  priest,  wrote  that  "  Michilimack- 
inac  is  the  key,  and  as  it  were,  the 
gate  for  all  the  tribes  from  the  south, 
as  the  Sault  is  for  those  of  the  north, 
there  being  in  this  section  of  country 
only  those  two  passages  by  water  ;  for 
a  great  number  of  nations  have  to  go 
by  one  or  other  of  these  channels,  in 
order  to  reach  the  French  settlements. 
This  presents  a  peculiarly  favorable 
opportunity  both  for  instructing  those 
who  pass  here,  and  also  for  obtaining 
easy  access  and  conveyance  to  their 
places  of  abode. " 

Father  Marquette  was  doubtless  the 
first  white  man  to  visit  it,  or  at  least, 
to  dwell  upon  it.  He  established  a 
school  on  the  island  in  167 1,  for  the 
education  of  the  Indian  youths,  and 
so  much  was  he  attached  to  "  the 
Straits"  that,  when  he  died  in  1675, 
it  was  at  his  request  his  Indian  con- 
verts brought  his  body  back  to  the 
little  mission  established  by  him  at 
St.  Ignace. 


The  first  vessel  ever  seen  on  these 
waters  was  the  "  Griffin,"  built  by  the 
explorer,  La  Salle,  on  Lake  Erie,  in 
1678. 

In  1695,  Cadillac,  who  still  later 
founded  Detroit,  established  a  small 
fort  here.  Then  came  contests  and 
skirmishes,  not  unmingled  with  massa- 
cres, until  finally  Mackinac,  with  all 
the  other  French  strongholds  on  the 
lakes,  was  surrendered  to  the  English 
in  September,  1761.  In  1763  began 
the  conspiracy  of  Pontiac — a  coup  de 
guerre  wonderful  for  the  sagacity  with 
which  it  was  planned  and  the  vigor 
with  which  it  was  executed.  Pontiac 
was  the  most  remarkable  Indian  of  all 
the  lake  tribes.  He  was  a  firm  friend 
of  the  French,  and  to  aid  their  cause, 
arranged  a  simultaneous  attack  upon 
all  the  English  forts  in  the  lake  coun- 
try and  in  a  vast  region  south  of  it. 
Eleven  posts  were  assaulted  and  eight 
were  captured. 

Fort  Michilimackinac  was  among 
the  latter.  Three  officers  and  thirty- 
five  men  defended  it.  A  band  of 
Chippewas,  while  playing  a  game  of 
ball  just  outside  of  the  fort,  knocked 
the  ball,  as  if  by  accident,  so  that  it 
fell  inside  the  stockade  ;  the  players 
rushed  after  it,  and  seizing  their 
weapons  from  squaws,  who  had  them 
concealed  under  their  blankets,  and 
had  previously  entered  the  fort  as  a 
part  of  the  plot,  they  raised  the  war- 
whoop  and  fell  upon  the  garrison.  A 
lieutenant  and  fifteen  men  were  killed 
and  a  captain  and  the  rest  of  the  gar- 
rison were  taken  prisoners,  to  be 
ransomed  afterwards. 

A  year  afterwards,  a  treaty  of  peace 
having  been  made  with  the  Indians, 
troops  were  again  sent  to  raise  the 
English  flag  over  the  fort.  By  a  treaty 
of  peace  between  Great  Britain  and 
the  United  States  September  3, 1783, 
the  island  fell  within  the  boundary  of 
the  United  States,  but  under  various 
pretences  the  English  refused  to  with- 
draw their  troops.  By  a  second  treaty 
concluded  November  19,  1794,  it  was 
stipulated  that  the  British  should  with- 
draw on  or  before  June  i,  1797.  Two 
companies  of  U.  S.  troops  arrived  in 


72         DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   6f   ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


October,  1796,  and  took  possession,  a 
previous  treaty  with  the  Indians  hav- 
ing secured  from  them  the  post.  Dur- 
ing the  war  of  181 2  the  island  was 
again  surrendered  to  the  British.  After 
the  victory  of  Commodore  Perry  on 
Lake  Erie  in  1813,  an  effort  was  made 
to  recapture  it,  but  the  troops  sent 
were  insufficient  in  numbers,  and  not 
until  1814  was  the  American  flag 
again  hoisted  over  the  Gibraltar  of 
the  lakes. 

In  savage  minds  Mackinac's  superb 
position  was  appreciated, then  the  mis- 
sionaries made  it  their  chief  pulpit, 
next  civilized  warfare  made  it  acoveted 
stronghold,  later  it  became  a  commer- 
cial centre.  I  now  refer  to  its  connec- 
tion with  the  fur  trade  carried  on  by 
John  Jacob  Astor,  Esq.,  of  New  York. 
Mr.  Astor  organized  the  American  Fur 
Company,  with  a  capital  of  two  mill- 
ion dollars.  It  had  no  chartered  right 
to  a  monopoly  of  the  Indian  trade,  yet 
by  its  wealth  and  influence  it  long 
controlled  that  trade.  The  outposts 
of  thecompanywerescattered  through- 
out the  whole  west  and  northwest. 
This  island  was  the  great  central  mart 
to  which  the  goods  were  brought  from 
New  York  by  way  of  the  lakes,  and 
from  Quebec  and  Montreal  by  way  of 
the  Ottawa,  Lake  Nipissing  and  French 
River.  From  this  point  they  were  dis- 
tributed to  all  the  outposts  ;  while 
from  all  the  Indian  countries  the  furs 
were  annually  brought  down  to  the 
island  by  the  company's  agents,whence 
they  were  sent  to  New  York,  Quebec 
or  to  Europe.  This  company  was 
organized  in  1809  and  continued  to 
do  business  until  1848. 

THE    WATER   ROUTE    TO    MACKINAC. 

Beauteous  Isle  !  I  sing  of  thee, 

Mackinac,  my  Mackinac; 
Thy  lake-bound  shores  I  love  to  see, 
Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 
From  Arch  Rock's  height  and  shelving  steep 
To  western  cliflfs  and  Lover's  Leap, 
Where  memories  of  the  lost  one  sleep, 
Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 
Thy  shore  once  trod  by  British  foe, 

Mackinac,  my  Mackinac  ; 
That  day  saw  g^allant  Holmes  laid  low, 
Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 
Now  Freedom's  flag  above  thee  waves. 
And  guards  the  rest  of  fallen  braves— 
Their  requiem  sung  by  Huron's  waves — 
Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 

— Front  lines  by  a  Mackinac  poet. 


Perhaps  the  pleasanter  route  to 
Mackinac — certainly  so  to  those  who 
love  to  be  on  the  water — is  by  boat 
from  Munising  Bay  over  a  third  of  the 
great  lake,  past  the  Pictured  Rocks 
and  down  the  St.  Mary's  River. 
Munising  is  readily  reached  from  any 
point  on  the  famous  "Short  Line" — 
the  DuLUTH,  South  Shore  and 
Atlantic  Railway.  You  leave  Old 
Munising  at  about  noon  and  are 
soon  in  the  enchanted  region  of  the 
Pictured  Rocks.  The  sand-hills  that 
succeed  the  beautiful  rocks  are  of 
variegated  hues,  also.  They  are  tree- 
less and  extend  far  back,  terrace  upon 
terrace.  It  is  a  beautiful  Sahara, 
without  its  heat,  that  you  seem  to  be 
looking  upon.  But  the  view  is  quickly 
lost,  and  you  come  upon  a  little  archi- 
pelago of  verdant  islands  laving  their 
bases  in  the  pellucid  and  chromatic 
waters  of  the  giant  lake.  Every  mile 
and  moment  is  passed  amid  cool, 
softly  winging  breezes  that  catch  and 
carry  the  refreshing  temperature  of 
the  great  mass  of  water. 

Forward,  onward,  the  proud  steam- 
er cleaves  her  way  through  the  crys- 
tal sea  until  at  Grand  Merais  there  is 
a  pause  and  a  glimpse  at  the  costly 
work  the  federal  government  is  pros- 
ecuting for  the  creation  of  a  harbor 
of  refuge.  There  are  other  remind- 
ers of  the  cruel  fury  of  this  veritable 
inland  ocean  during  the  stormy  win- 
ter season.  At  periodic  intervals 
stations  of  the  life-saving  service  are 
seen,  precisely  as  on  the  New  England 
or  New  Jersey  coast.  Like  the  ocean 
coast  stations,  they  are  thoroughly 
equipped  and  bravely  manned. 

But  the  keener  pleasure  of  the 
journey  is  beyond  Sault  Ste.  Marie — 
the  journey  down  the  St.  Mary's  River. 
The  St.  Mary's  is  a  noble  and  broad 
river,  but  the  channel  is  narrow, 
crooked  and  beset  with  dangers  to  all 
but  the  most  skillful  pilots.  Rocks 
that  are  visible  and  rocks  that  are 
hidden  are  both  so  numerous  that  no 
vessels  make  the  run  after  dark. 
After  the  exciting  part  of  the  voyage 
is  ended  the  river  broadens  into  al- 


A    CRADLE  OF  HISTORY. 


73 


most  lake-like  width,  and  innumerable 
beautiful  islands  deck  its  surface. 
The  river  ends  in  Potoganissing  Bay 
and  that,  in  turn,  leads  into  the  body 
of  which  it  is  a  part — Lake  Huron. 
The  course  of  the  boat  has  been 
southeasterly  up  to  this  point,  but  in 
Lake  Huron  it  is  abruptly  changed  to 
an  almost  westerly  course,  and  pres- 
ently beauteous  Mackinac  towers  in 
view.  In  the  following  verses  the 
expectant  tourist  may  discover  how 
this  journey  affected  a  poet  who  ex- 
perienced it : 

ST.   MARY'S    RIVER. 
By  John  M.  Talman. 

The  workmanship  of  Nature's  band 

No  rarer  gem  than  this  has  shown  ; 
The  glamor  sc/t  of  fairyland 

Upon  this  luring  realm  is  thrown. 
On  boulder  vast  and  current  swift 

The  first  gleams  of  the  morning  quiver, 
While  in  a  dreamy  calm  I  driit 

Adown  Si.  Mary's  shining  river. 

In  power,  in  stateliness  and  pride. 

Majestic  ships  the  waters  brave, 
As  on  and  ever  on  ihey  glide 

To  crown  with  sail  the  Huron's  wave. 
The  matin  glow,  the  noontide  blaze, 

The  fiercely  swirling  eddies  shiver; 
The  peace  ol'^old  Arcadian  days 

Surrounds  St.  Mary's  beauteous  river. 

The  devious  lines  of  tree-clad  shore 

To  shapes  of  wondrous  grace  are  bent, 
And  flashing  waters  onward  pour, 

With  thickly  verdured  isles  besprent. 
Sweet  messages  of  amity 

Shore,  isle  and  stream  to  lake  deliver; 
A  houseless  Venice  seems  to  be 

Upon  St,  Mary's  mighty  river. 

And  so  this  work  is  ended.  It  is 
only  necessary  to  say,  in  advance  of 
a  last  farewell,  that  the  author  has 
been  obliged  to  discuss  and  explain 


some  especial  subjects  in  knowledge 
of  which  he  was  so  much  at  a  loss 
that  he  must  needs  borrow  from  the 
writings  or  the  verbal  assistance  of 
others.  In  all  such  cases  he  has 
frankly  given  what  credit  was  due — 
quite  selfishly,  if  you  please,  for  no 
wise  man,  however  scanty  his  morals, 
would  care  to  make  himself  respons- 
ible for  a  single  statement  for  the 
truth  of  Avhich  he  could  not  vouch. 
But  to  Mr.  John  M.  Talman,  of  the 
St.  Paul  Pioneer- Press,  added  and 
especial  credit  and  thanks  are  due. 
He  is  familiar  with  the  region  here 
described,  has  seen  it  with  his  own 
uncommonly  observant  eyes,  and  has 
written  bits  and  paragraphs  here  and 
there  in  this  work  with  a  pen  that  is 
quite  as  felicitous  in  descriptive  work 
as  every  reader  of  this  book  has  dis- 
covered it  to  be  in  the  word-melodies 
of  poesy. 

Shall  that  older  poet,  Prior,  see  me 
out  of  your  presence  with  this  ancient 
impudence  of  his  : 

"As  long  as  we  have  eyes  or  hands  or  breath 
We'll  look  or  write  or  talk  you  all  to  death  ?  " 

No  ;  rather  let  me  write  what  Rob- 
ert Burns  would  have  written  had  he 
been  born  somewhere  along  **  The 
Short  Line  "  instead  of  in  Scotland  : 

Farewell  to  the  mountains  high  covered  with  snow; 
Farewell  to  the  straths  and  green  valleys  below  ; 
Farewell  to  the  forests  and  wild-hanging  woods  ; 
Farewell  to  the  torrents  and  land-pouring  floods. 
My  heart's  in  the  Bowstring,  my  neart  is  not  here. 
My  heart's  in  the  Bowstring,  a-chasing  the  deer. 
Chasing  the  wild  deer  and  following  the  roe  ; 
My  heart's  in  the  Bowstring  wherever  I  go. 


■f*^'f- 


A    SKETCH    OF    THE    GEOLOGY 


OF   THE 


MARQUETTE   AND    KEWEENAWAN    DISTRICTS. 


Dr.  m.  e.  wadsworth, 

Director  of  the  Michigan  Mining  School  and  State  Geologist  of  Michigan. 
2d  Edition. 


GEOLOGICAL. 


AZOIC  SYSTEM. 

rrlHE  region  about  the  south  shore 
^  I  of  Lake  Superior  is  to  geologists 
-*■  one  of  the  most  interesting  dis- 
tricts of  the  United  States,  embracing 
as  it  does,  in  a  limited  area,  old  crys- 
talline rocks,  together  with  forms  that 
are  almost  in  their  original  condition 
of  a  beach  sand  and  mud.  In  this 
region  was  first  established  the  base  of 
the  geological  column,  the  Azoic  (with- 
out life)  System  of  Foster  and  Whit- 
ney, or  the  Archaean  (the  beginning)  of 
Dana,  Overlying  this  system  are  found 
the  sandstones  and  limestones  of  the 
Palaeozoic  (ancient  life),  with  their 
interbedded  lava  flows. 

These  systems  possess  a  strong  eco- 
nomic interest,  owing  to  the  stores  of 
iron  in  the  Azoic  and  of  copper  in  the 
Palaeozoic  of  this  district,  which  forms 
one  of  the  most  important  mining 
regions  in  America. 

The  geology  of  this  section  is  so  dif- 
ficult and  complicated  that,  in  its  gen- 
eral discussion,  perhaps  no  proposition 
can  be  stated  concerning  any  portion 
of  it,  to  which  exceptions  cannot  be 
taken.  Indeed,  out  of  the  general 
discussion  of  different  points  comes  in 
time  the  truth,  and  various  geologists, 
even  now,  are  working  over  this  region 
in  the  endeavor  to  arrive  at  some  con- 
sensus, or  at  least  to  determine,  upon 
what  points  they  can  agree,  and 
upon  what  points  difference  of  opinion 
will  have  to  exist  between  them  at  pres- 
ent until  further  evidence  can  be  obtain- 
ed. The  writer  will  endeavor  to  give  in 
a  brief  form  that  which  appears  to  him 
at  present  to  be  the  most  correct  state- 
ment of  the  geological  structure  of  the 
region,  admitting  that  from  time  to 
time,  as  more  complete  evidence  shall 
be  obtained,  he  expects  to  change  his 
views  in  the  future  as  has  been  done 


in  the  past,  if  that  evidence  shall  cause 
him  to  believe  that  he  has  been  mis- 
taken. 

The  Azoic  or  Archaean  System  south 
of  Lake  Superior  consists  of  rocks  that 
have  been  formed  in  three  ways  :  ist, 
by  mechanical  means;  zd,  by  erup- 
tive, igneous,  or  volcanic  agencies ; 
3d,  by  chemical  (including  electro- 
chemical) action. 

FRAGMENTAL  OR  DETRITAL  ROCKS. 

The  mechanical  agencies  of  the 
Azoic  time  acted  upon  some  prior- 
formed  rocks,  in  like  manner  as  we  see 
rain,  winds,  waves,  frosts,  etc.,  now 
breaking  down  the  rocks  of  the  present 
day,  causing  them  to  be  deposited  as  soil, 
mud,  sand  and  shingle,  forming  det- 
rital  or  sedimentary  deposits.  Such 
detritus  one  can  see  upon  the  shores 
of  any  lake  or  sea,  being  in  many  local- 
ities variable  in  its  composition,  and 
oftentimes  abruptly  changing  from  fine 
mud  to  sand  or  even  to  coarse  shingle. 
At  other  localities  upon  the  same  lake 
shore  one  may  observe  a  nearly  uni- 
form sand,  mud,  or  shingle  stretching 
away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  along 
that  shore.  Like  uniformity  and  like 
abrupt  changes  are  seen  by  the  geolo- 
gist to  occur  in  the  rocks  formed  from 
the  ancient  muds,  sands  and  shingle 
of  the  early  seas  and  lakes.  These 
deposits  may  have  remained  on  the 
surface  of  the  ancient  beach,  or  may 
have  been  deeply  buried  under  suc- 
ceeding deposits ;  but  whatever  may 
have  been  their  position  relative  to  the 
earth's  surface,  they  have  been  greatly 
changed  or  altered  from  their  original 
condition,  although  the  evidences  of 
that  original  condition  remain  plainly 
visible  to  him  who  has  learned  to  read 
the  worn,  torn,  and  worm-eaten  book 
of  Nature.  In  truth  it  may  be  said 
that  no  act  can  take  place  without 


78 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &'  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


leaving  its  effects  behind,  and  these  can 
be  interpreted  with  greater  or  less  clear- 
ness, until  their  record  has  been  entirely 
obliterated. 

To  return.  We  find  that  these  old 
muds,  sands  and  shingle  have  been 
acted  upon,  and  metamorphosed  or 
altered,  by  heat  from  the  earth's  molten 
interior,  or  from  contact  with  igneous 
or  volcanic  rocks,  with  their  accom- 
panying hot  waters.  Or,  again,  these 
deposits  have  been  affected  by  hot  or 
cold  waters  percolating  through  them, 
bearing  materials  which  chemically  act 
upon  them ;  or,  again,  they  may  have 
been  subjected  to  greater  or  less  squeez- 
ing and  pressure  during  the  formation 
of  the  numerous  wrinkles  that  old 
Mother  Earth  now  wears  upon  her 
rugged  face,  deeply  furrowed  with  her 
tears. 

Of  all  the  agents  of  consolidation 
and  change  in  rocks,  the  chemically 
active  waters  are,  to  my  mind,  the  most 
potent ;  and  it  appears  to  me  probable 
that  dry  heat  and  pressure  alone  would 
be  unable  to  produce  any  general  and 
widespread  rock  alteration,  if  it  were 
not  for  the  intervention  of  the  perco- 
lating waters  found  in  all  rocks,  so  far 
as  man  has  been  able  to  penetrate  the 
earth.  Such  metamorphosed  or  altered 
detritus  forms  the  oldest  known  rocks 
of  the  Lake  Superior  district,  and  we 
know  of  the  original  rocks  only  by  the 
remains  of  that  debris  now  found  in 
them.  From  the  character  of  that 
debris  it  appears  that  the  original  rocks 
were  of  igneous  or  volcanic  origin; 
that  is,  they  made  up  the  early  formed 
crust  of  the  earth  or  else  were  produced 
by  the  earth's  primitive  volcanic  activity. 

When  the  muds,  sands  or  shingle 
have  been  consolidated  they  are  found 
to  form  rocks  that  differ,  not  only  in 
the  fineness  of  the  material  in  them, 
and  in  their  chemical  and  mineral  com- 
position, but  they  vary  also  according 
as  they  have  been  subjected  to  different 
agencies  and  conditions. 

Thus  it  is  that  the  muds  have  formed 
the  rocks  known  as  the  argillites,  shales, 
most  schists,  and  some  gneisses ;  the 
sands  have  formed  sandstones,  quartz- 


ites,  some  schists,  and  most  gneisses; 
while  the  shingle  generally  finds  its 
expression  in  the  conglomerates. 

The  term  argillite  is  used  to  indicate 
those  consolidated  muds  that  were 
largely  composed  of  clay  or  argillaceous 
material;  but  the  argillites  are  com- 
monly known  as  slates — a  term  prop- 
erly applied  to  an  argillite  only  when 
it  has  been  subjected  to  pressure  and 
chemical  action  to  such  an  extent  that 
it  has  the  property  of  splitting  indefi- 
nitely into  thin  plates,  that  have  no 
relation  to  the  original  structural  or 
sedimentary  planes  of  the  rock.  This 
property  of  being  cleaved  or  split  is 
known  as  cleavage,  and  it  is  by  no 
means  confined  to  that  variety  of  argil- 
lite known  as  slate.  When  argillites 
contain  considerable  carbon,  either 
unchanged  or  in  the  graphitic  form, 
they  are  known  as  carbonaceous  or 
graphitic  argillites.  In  the  Azoic  dis- 
trict of  Northern  Michigan  argillite  is 
abundant,  the  common  forms  being 
found  along  the  lake  shore  and  inland 
south  of  Marquette,  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Hotel  Marquette.  It  also  occurs 
at  Ishpeming  and  Negaunee,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  mines,  forming,  with  the 
chlorite  schist,  their  principal  country 
rock.  Argillite  is  also  found  extending 
from  the  vicinity  of  L'Anse  Bay  to 
Huron  Bay  and  the  Huron  Mountains, 
forming  in  some  portion  of  its  extent 
an  excellent  slate,  which  is  worked  in 
the  vicinity  of  Arvon.  The  L'Anse 
argillite  passes  not  only  into  the  slate 
variety,  but  also  into  the  carbonaceous 
or  graphitic  variety.  It  is  this  variety 
of  argillite,  forming  the  country  rock 
of  Sec.  ZZ,  T.  50  N.,  R.  ^3  W.,  that 
has  been  quarried  or  mined  under  the 
name  of  "Baraga  graphite,"  the  car- 
bonaceous material  forming  a  constit- 
uent portion  of  the  country  rock,  and 
not  a  vein,  as  has  been  reported.  A 
simillar  argillite  is  also  found  on  the 
southern  side  of  Teal  Lake. 

When  the  quartz  sands  that  form  a 
sandstone  have  been  greatly  altered  or 
indurated,  so  that  the  rock  is  com- 
posed of  a  very  hard,  compact  mass 
of  quartz   grains,  it  forms   a   variety 


GEOLOGICAL. 


79 


of  sandstone  known  as  quartzite,  a 
very  common  rock  in  the  vicinity  of 
Marquette  and  Negaunee,  and  much 
quarried  for  ganister.  Some  of  the 
well-known  localities  are  near  the  Mar- 
quette State  Prison,  Mt.  Mesnard,  and 
northeast  and  northwest  of  Teal  Lake, 
in  its  immediate  vicinity.  It  is  also 
abundant  about  the  Jackson,  Cleve- 
land, New  York,  Republic,  and  Cham- 
pion iron  mines. 

The  terms  schist  and  gneiss  are 
used  to  designate  all  those  altered  or 
metamorphosed  detrital  deposits,  whose 
minerals  are  arranged  in  more  or  less 
parallel  bands,  along  which  the  min- 
erals tend  to  lie  flatwise  or  lengthwise, 
causing  the  rock  to  split  into  more  or 
less  regular  plates  parallel  to  these 
bands.  These  bands  (or  foliation  of 
the  rock)  may  or  may  not  be  coinci- 
dent with  the  original  planes  or  lines 
along  which  the  detritus  was  deposited 
(planes  of  sedimentation),  and  in  the 
rhajority  of  cases  in  the  Marquette 
region  they  do  not  coincide.  A  strik- 
ing example  of  this  can  be  seen  in  the 
schist  north  of  Teal  Lake,  where  the 
planes  of  deposition  run  approximately 
northeast  and  southwest,  while  the 
foliation  runs  east  and  west. 

The  varieties  of  schist  are  named 
according  to  some  one  or  more  of  the 
prominent  minerals  in  them,  as  horn- 
blende schist,  mica  schist,  quartz  schist, 
chlorite  schist,  actinolite  schist,  etc., 
for  the  schists  that  contain  the 
minerals  hornblende,  mica,  quartz, 
chlorite,  actinolite,  etc. 

The  altered  muds,  sands  or  shin- 
gles may  be  found  continuous  over 
large  areas,  or  they  may  be  found,  like 
their  modern  representatives,  to  pass 
gradually  or  abruptly  into  one  another. 
Thus  it  is  that  quartzite  is  found  to 
pass  into  quartz,  mica  and  .chlorite 
schists  ;  the  chlorite  schist  into  argillite, 
conglomerate  and  hornblende  schists, 
etc.  Hornblende  schists  are  well  de- 
veloped about  Marquette,  forming 
much  of  the  rock  underlying  the  north- 
ern portion  of  the  city,  especially  about 
Light  House  Point  and  the  region  ad- 
jacent.    Chlorite   schist   occurs    com- 


monly with  argillite  in  the  vicinity  of 
Marquette  and  about  the  iron  mines  of 
Negaunee,  Ishpeming,  Champion  and 
Michigamme,  forming  even  more  of 
the  country  rock  than  the  argillite 
does,  which  is  sometimes  wanting. 

Grunerite  schist  and  mica  schist 
occur  in  the  vicinity  of  Republic,  Hum- 
boldt and  Champion,  while  ottrelite 
schist  is  found  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
two  last  named  mines.  Conglomerates 
are  found  in  the  vicinity  of  most  of 
the  iron  mines,  also  by  the  Republic 
branch  railroad  near  Humboldt,  as  well 
as  in  the  vicinity  of  Deer  and  Silver 
Lakes. 

ERUPTIVE,    VOLCANIC     OR     IGNEOUS 
ROCKS. 

To  obtain  a  fair  idea  of  rocks  of  this 
character  it  is  necessary  to  do  as  we 
have  done  with  the  detrital  or  frag- 
mental  rocks;  that  is,  to  observe  care- 
fully the  recent  forms  and  trace  out 
their  structure  and  various  modifica- 
tions and  alterations.  If  this  is  done, 
we  see  that  the  eruptive  rocks  are 
changed  or  metamorphosed  as  much  as, 
and  oftentimes  more  than,  the  sedi- 
mentary formations. 

It  may  be  illustrated  by  allowing 
some. of  the  molten  iron  from  our  fur- 
naces to  run  at  waste  over  the  ground 
and  into  the  crevices,  so  as  to  be  left 
exposed  to  the  air,  frost,  wind  and 
snow.  It  would  first  solidify,  then 
crack  or  form  joints,  as  all  rocks  do, 
and,  owing  to  the  action  of  the  air  and 
rain,  it  would  decompose  and  alter, 
until  finally  it  would  form  an  earthy 
iron  ore  totally  unlike  the  original  iron. 
Why  is  this  ?  The  answer  is  that  the 
iron,  when  it  passes  from  its  furnace,  is 
exposed  in  the  outside  atmosphere  to 
conditions  entirely  unlike  those  in  the 
furnace,  and  it  must  change  its  state 
to  conform  with  those  changed  con- 
ditions. So,  too,  the  eruptive  rocks, 
coming  in  a  liquid  state  from  the  inte- 
rior of  the  earth's  furnace,  cannot  en- 
dure unchanged  the  conditions  which 
exist  at  or  near  the  earth's  surface. 
They  are  in  an  unstable  condition,  and 
must  be  made  over  into  a  more  stable 


8o         DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &-  ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


mineral  composition.  The  agencies 
that  produce  that  change  appear  in 
general  to  be  the  same  as  those  which 
alter  the  sedimentary  formations,  that 
is,  percolating  waters  chemically  active, 
pressure,  and  heat  or  cold.  The  first 
stage  is  the  change  from  a  liquid  or 
pasty  mass  into  a  solid  one ;  later  there 
comes  a  more  or  less  variable  alteration 
that  extends  throughout  the  entire  mass, 
an<l  causes  variation  in  the  mineral 
composition  and  structure — so  much 
so  that  at  times  no  traces  of  its  original 
condition  remain,  unless  they  be  its  form 
or  its  relative  position  to  other  rocks. 

It  is  these  changes  that  cause  rocks 
that  were  originally  peridotites  or  oli- 
vine rocks  to  be  now  called  serpentines, 
actinolite  schists,  talc  schists,  dolomites 
and  verde  antiques  ;  or  cause  formerly 
molten  basalts  to  be  now  called  mela- 
phyrs,  diabases,  gabbros,  diorites,  eclo- 
gites,  amphibolites,  hornblende  schists, 
chlorite  schists,  mica  schists,  amygda- 
loids,  traps,  greenstones,  variolites, 
granites,  etc.  It  may  here  be  said  that 
schists  very  commonly  result  from  the 
alteration  of  eruptive  rocks,  and  are 
produced,  as  well,  by  the  change  of 
sedimentary  ones.  It  is  alteration  that 
causes  rocks  that  were  formerly  andes- 
ites  now  to  form  rocks  that  are  called 
phonolites,  propylite,  hornblende  por- 
phyry, porphyrites,  diabase,  melaphyr, 
diorite,  granite,  schist,  etc.  In  the  same 
way  what  were  once  trachytes  now  form 
felsites,  phonolites,  porphyries,  gran- 
ites, gneisses,  etc. ;  while  the  rhyolites, 
in  their  alteration,  form  rocks  called 
felsites,  petrosilex,  gneisses,  granites, 
quartz  porphyries,  etc.  It  will  be  in- 
ferred from  the  above  that  the  altera- 
tion of  eruptive  rocks  produces,  from 
forms  that  were  originally  distinct, 
forms  that  are  now  known  by  the  same 
name ;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
varieties  due  to  the  various  changes  of  a 
single  rock  species  are  very  numerous. 

The  structure  of  eruptive  rocks  differs 
very  much  according  to  their  compo- 
sition, and  according  to  the  conditions 
under  which  they  have  cooled,  whether 
slowly  or  rapidly,  as  well  as  according 
to  the  conditions  to  which  they  have 


since  been  subjected.  That  is,  a  mass 
slowly  cooling  will  be  found  to  con- 
tain much  larger  mineral  forms,  known 
as  crystals,  than  a  mass  suddenly 
chilled. 

The  eruptive  rocks,  in  their  relations 
to  their  associated  country  rocks,  will 
also  vary  according  to  the  conditions 
in  which  they  have  reached  their  present 
position  relative  to  the  latter. 

If  the  liquid  material  (lava)  forces 
its  way  through  a  rock,  filling  the  cracks 
that  then  existed  in  it,  like  putty  filling 
a  crack  in  glass,  the  solidified  lava  is 
known  as  a  dike.  It  is  to  be  observed, 
however,  that  when  rocks  are  but  little 
consolidated,  the  eruptive  or  liquid 
material  tends  to  force  itself  along  the 
planes  of  deposition  of  the  sediments, 
or  parallel  with  the  foliation,  or  else  to 
break-  irregularly  through  whatever 
portion  of  the  rocks  offers  the  least 
resistance.  But  when  the  rocks  have 
become  solid  then  the  flow  more  com- 
monly takes  place  along  cracks  or 
fissures  in  the  rocks  which  extend  across 
the  country,  like  the  cracks  made  in 
a  thin  sheet  of  ice.  Usually  these 
dikes  may  be  distinguished  by  their 
being  closely  welded  on  each  side  to 
the  country  rock,  which  is  often  in- 
durated or  hardened  at  the  point  of 
contact ;  by  their  being  compact  and 
fine  grained  at  the  junction  with  the 
country  rock,  thus  showing  a  rapid 
cooling,  due  to  their  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  cold  sides  of  the  fissure  ; 
also  by  their  being  more  coarsely 
crystalline  or  coarse  grained  toward 
the  centre  than  at  the  margin,  because 
of  the  greater  length  of  tirrle  the  interior 
mass  would  be  in  cooling ;  oftentimes, 
by  the  dikes  holding,  on  both  sides,  the 
fragments  of  the  country  rock  caught 
up  in  the  passage  of  the  lava.  The 
difference  between  the  sides  and  the 
interior  of  dikes  is  usually  less  marked 
in  those  rocks  which  contain  over  sixty- 
five  or  seventy  per  cent,  of  silica,  than 
it  is  in  rocks  containing  a  less  amount. 
Oftentimes  the  lava  welling  up  through 
a  fissure  will  fail  to  reach  the  surface, 
and  usually  hardens  in  a  wedge  or  knob- 
like form  ;  but  at  other  times  it  flows 


GEOLOGICAL. 


8i 


out  over  the  surface  of  the  earth,  in 
like  manner  as  water  passing  through  a 
fissure  will  flow  over  the  surface  of  ice. 
When  lava  flows  out  from  long  fissures 
and  floods  the  country,  such  flows  are 
commonly  known  as  fissure  or  massive 
eruptions,  especially  if  the  flows  were 
attended  with  little  or  no  explosive 
action.  If  the  lava  passed  through  a 
hole  or  channel  like  a  "blow  hole"  in 
ice,  and  especially  if  attended  with  ex- 
plosive action,  it  is  commonly  called 
volcanic.  The  massive  fissure  or  quiet 
eruptions  were  more  common  in  the 
earlier  days  of  this  earth,  the  explosive 
or  volcanic  eruptions  have  been  more 
common  in  later  geological  time,  or 
recent  times.  Since  all  these  are  mani- 
festations of  the  same  general  cause,  we 
shall  use  the  term  volcanic  to  include 
all  eruptive  phenomena. 

Lava  flows  may  generally  be  dis- 
tinguished from  dikes  or  intrusive 
masses  of  lava  by  the  underside  of  the 
flow  being  welded  to  the  country  rock, 
by  its  having  baked  or  indurated  the 
underlying  rock,  and  by  its  holding 
fragments  of  it ;  also  by  its  conform- 
ity to  the  original  surface  of  that  un- 
derlying country  rock.  The  flow  is 
usually  fine  grained  or  compact  at  its 
base  owing  to  rapid  cooling,  but  a 
short  distance  from  its  base  it  becomes 
of  a  coarser  texture,  and  usually  shows 
the  coarsest  structure  below  the  centre 
of  the  flow,  at  a  point  which  was  the 
longest  in  cooling.  The  upper  surface 
of  the  flow  is  commonly  wrinkled, 
cellular  and  slaggy,  if  it  has  not  been 
worn  off".  The  overlying  country  rock 
is  laid  down  upon  this  surface ;  it  con- 
forms to  the  inequalities  of  the  un- 
derlying lava,  and  generally  contains 
fragments  derived  from  it.  The  over- 
lying sedimentary  rock  is  not  welded  to 
the  underlying  lava,  nor  does  one 
affect  the  other  in  any  way,  unless  it  be 
by  chemical  action. 

When  any  explosive  action  has  taken 
place,  ashes  and  larger  fragments  of 
the  disrupted  lava  are  strewn  about, 
which  may  or  may  not  be  subsequently 
worked  over  by  wind  and  water.  Lava, 
as  soon  as  it  is  exposed  to  the  waves, 


is  worn  away,  like  any  other  rock,  and 
we  may  find  its  worn  detritus  deposited 
by  its  side,  ere  the  main  mass  has 
been  cooled. 

THE  OLDEST  SEDIMENTARY  AND 
ERUPTIVE  ROCKS. 

The  location  in  which  these  rocks 
have  been  best  made  out  by  the  State 
Geological  Survej',  is  in  the  Cascade 
Range  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Volunteer 
mine.  Here  one  finds  an  old  horn- 
blendic  schist  that  has  been  invaded 
by  eruptive  granite  and  other  volcanic 
rocks.  This  formation  is  especially 
marked  to  the  southeast  of  the  mine, 
and  rises  in  abrupt  but  low  hills  near  the 
stream.  It  is  not  impossible  that  the 
hornblendic  schist  may  be  a  changed 
eruptive  or  volcanic  rock  instead  of 
being  a  sedimentary  one,  although  the 
evidence  thus  far  obtained  points  to 
the  latter  origin. 

Towards  the  mine  one  finds  a  sedi- 
mentary rock  lying  on  the  oldest  schist 
and  granite,  and  composed  of  their 
debris.  This  is  especially  marked  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  stream.  Some  of 
the  boulders  that  make  up  this  detrital 
deposit  are  several  feet  in  diameter, 
while  the  rock  passes  from  a  coarse 
conglomerate  into  a  fine  schist  appa- 
rently composed  of  granitic  mud.  The 
formations  that  overlie  this  will  be 
spoken  of  elsewhere. 

JASPILITES    AND    THEIR    ASSOCIATED 
IRON    ORES. 

Associated  with  early  detrital  rocks 
are  the  immense  bodies  of  iron  ore 
and  jaspilite  in  the  Marquette  district. 
The  relations  of  the  ore  and  jaspilite 
to  each  other  and  to  their  associated 
schists  and  quartzites  are  matters  of 
very  great  economic  and  scientific  im- 
portance, to  which,  therefore,  much 
attention  has  been  paid.  Most  ot 
the  opinions  advanced  have  been 
based  on  preconceived  notions,  rather 
than  upon  a  thorough  study  of  the 
rocks  in  place  and  conclusions  drawn 
from  the  evidence  they  present.  This 
method,  which  the  writer  deems  the 
only  correct  one,  and  which  has  been 


DULUTH,   SOUTH  SHORE   &-  ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


followed  by  some  geologists,  has  thus 
far  led  to  very  different  conclusions 
amongst  them.  This  difference  of  opin- 
ion arises  from  various  causes,  some  of 
the  chief  of  which  are  that  the  observers 
see  different  facts,  as  well  as  draw  dif- 
ferent conclusions  from  the  same  facts. 
Some  of  the  different  views  will  be 
given  below,  commencing  with  the 
view  that  the  jaspilites  are  of  eruptive 
origin. 

If  we  return  to  the  partially,  or  not  at 
all,  consolidated  detrital  rocks  that  ex- 
isted as  sea  deposits  in  the  primitive 
days,  we  find  that  these  rocks  were  ap- 
parently invaded  by  eruptive  material 
which  forced  its  way  irregularly  through 
the  soft  sedimentary  materials,  indu- 
rated them,  bent  their  planes  of  deposi- 
tion, changed  their  color,  and  sent 
tongues,  arms  and  dikes 
through  them  in  every  di- 
rection. It  has  also  been  pro- 
truded through  the  schists 
in  large  masses,  contorting 
them  and  tearing  them 
across,  and  oftentimes  ending 
in  small  arms  and  branches. 
This  eruptive  rock  is  now 
very  greatly  metamorphosed, 
and  is  termed  jaspilite.  Like 
the  siliceous  eruptive  rhyo- 
lites  and  felsites,  it  is  gener- 
ally more  or  less  banded  in 
its  character,  which  banding 
is  due  apparently  to  its  hav- 
ing flowed,  a  phenomenon  that  has  its 
counterpart  in  the  banding  of  the 
siliceous  furnace  slags,  such  as  one 
may  see  about  the  iron  furnaces  of  the 
Marquette  district.  It  is  this  fluidal 
structure  or  banding  that  is  so  often 
mistaken  in  the  rhyolites,  felsites  and 
trachytes  for  the  planes  of  sediment- 
ation. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  all  of  the 
eruptive  rocks  contain  iron  in  the  form 
of  magnetite  and  hematite  in  greater  or 
less  abundance,  and  some  contain  iron 
in  its  metallic  state.  The  latter  is  the 
case  with  some  basaltic  dikes  in  Green- 
land, which  hold  not  only  finely  divided 
magnetite  and  metallic  iron  throughout 
their  entire  mass,  but  also  contain  im- 


mense blocks  of  metallic  iron  imbedded 
in  them.  So,  too,  the  old,  coarsely 
crystalline,  eruptive  basalts  known  as 
gabbros  contain,  about  Duluth  and  else- 
where in  Minnesota,  so  much  iron  ore 
that  they  have  been  worked  for  it,  and 
the  only  drawback  to  their  successful 
working  is  the  fact  that  the  iron  con- 
tains titanium.  Were  iron  ore  as  valu- 
able as  native  copper,  there  is  not  a 
dike  or  lava  flow  of  any  size  that  it 
would  not  pay  to  work  ;  and  were  iron 
ore  as  valuable  as  silver,  no  eruptive 
rock  now  exists  on  the  face  of  the  globe 
that  would  not  be  actively  prospected. 
The  question  is  merely  one  of  value 
and  amount.  In  the  same  way  we  find 
iron  ore  associated  with  the  jaspilites 
to  a  greater  or  less  extent.  In  some 
places  the  ore  is  locally  concentrated 
with  little  or 
no  jaspilite ; 
in  others  the 
jaspilite  pre- 
dominates, 
and  forms  a 
lean  ore  not 
suitable  for 
working. 
The  concen- 
tration  of 


the  ore,  ill  Lfodies  sufiiciently  rich  to 
be  worked,  is  very  irregular,  but  the 
ore  is  said  to  be  generally  in  lenses 
connected  by  the  intervening  leaner 
portions  of  jaspilite,  the  amount  of  the 
workable  portion  varying,  of  course, 
with  the  varying  price  of  ore. 

The  jaspilite,  with  its  associated  ore, 
is  found  to  have  been  subsequently 
broken  or  jointed,  and  the  cracks  filled 
in  with  iron  ore,  apparently  through 
the  action  of  the  percolating  waters, 
which  have  acted  chemically  on  both 
the  jaspilite  and  its  ore,  and  brought 
about  great  changes  in  both.  Further, 
we  find  that  the  jaspilite  and  its  ore  have 
been  broken  up  and  worn  away  by  the 
ancient  waters,  and  deposited  as  mud, 


GEOLOGICAL. 


83 


sand  and  shingle  upon  the  underlying 
ore  deposits.  This  detrital  or  sediment- 
ary material  has  become  consolidated, 
and  forms  true  sedimentary  deposits  of 
iron  ore,  which  in  many  places  are  apt 
to  be  lean.  These  deposits  have  been 
worked,  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  for 
their  ore. 

Wherever  the  intrusive  masses  of  the 
jaspilite  have  come  in  contact  with  the 
schists  the  latter  have  been  impregnated 
with  iron  to  a  greater  or  less  extent, 
and  these  impregnations  are  sometimes 
mined. 

The  iron  ore  that  belongs  with  the  jas- 
pilite is  mainly  of  two  mineral  species, 
magnetite  and  hematite.  The  former 
is  known  by  its  forming  a  black  pow- 
der when  pulverized,  and  by  its  frag- 
ments being  attracted  by  a  magnetized 
knife-blade.  It  crystallizes  in  eight  or 
twelve-sided  figures  (octahedrons  and 
dodecahedrons),  but  usually  the  crystals 
interfere  with  one  another,  so  that  none 
of  them  can  attain  a  complete  form; 
hence  there  results  a  granular  structure 
composed  of  irregular,  rounded  grains 
like  pitted  peas,  mustard  or  sand  grains. 

Hematite,  on  the  other  hand,  forms 
a  red  powder  when  pulverized,  and  its 
fragments  are  not  normally  attracted  by 
a  magnetized  knife-blade.  Practically, 
the  Lake  Superior  hematite  is  attracted 
to  some  extent,  owing,  probably,  to 
the  enclosed  magnetite.  Hematite 
crystallizes  in  flattish  hexagonal  forms, 
and  when  the  crystals  are  imperfectly 
developed  they  tend  to  form  plates  or 
scales,  like  the  well  known  micaceous 
hematite.  This  general  difference  be- 
tween the  platy  or  scaly  structure  of 
hematite  and  the  granular  structure  of 
magnetite  is  useful  in  distinguishing  the 
mineralogically  important  ore  of  iron 
known  as  martite.  This  ore  is  a  magnet- 
ite that  has  been  chemically  altered 
to  a  hematite  ;  it  retains  the  form  of  the 
magnetite  which  it  once  was,  but  it  has 
lost  the  chemical  composition  of  mag- 
netite and  assumed  that  of  hematite. 
In  the  same  way  its  powder  has  no 
longer  the  black  color  of  magnetite, 
but  the  red  color  of  hematite.  The 
martite  can  then  be  easily  distinguished 


from  hematite,  as  a  rule,  by  its  possess- 
ing the  granular  structure  of  magnetite, 
and  from  magnetite  by  its  giving  the 
red  streak  or  powder  of  hematite. 

The  supposed  hematite  frequently 
occurs  in  thin  layers  in  the  jaspilite, 
and  in  irregular  masses  in  the  schists. 
Microscopic  sections  of  these  forms 
which  the  writer  has  examined  always 
show  that  the  supposed  hematite  does 
not  occur  in  the  form  of  hematite,  but 
in  the  form  of  magnetite,  hence  was  a 
martite  instead  of  a  hematite  proper. 
It  has  been  suggested  by  Brooks  that 
all  the  Lake  Superior  ore  was  once 
magnetite,  a  view  that  has  many  facts 
to  support  it. 

If  one  chooses  to  observe  carefully 
the  relation  of  the  jaspilite  to  the  schists 
in  the  mines,  he  will  see  that  the  former 
with  its  associated  ore  oftentimes  ir- 
regularly branches  or  cuts  through  the 
schists  (or  soap  rocks  of  the  miners). 
This  irregular  branching  character  of 
the  jaspilite  is  in  full  accord  with  the 
view  that  it  is  eruptive  in  its  origin, 
which  explains  why  it  cuts  across  the 
foliation  or  platy  structure  of  the  schist. 
This  leaves  them  with  little  support, 
and  with  the  sharp  edges  pointing 
downward.  To  this  cause  is  due  part 
of  the  great  insecurity  of  the  hanging 
walls  of  schist  and  the  danger  to  the 
miners  working  beneath. 

The  question  of  the  eruptive  origin 
of  the  jaspilite  and  its  associated  iron 
ore  is  one  of  great  economic  and  scien- 
tific interest,  but  our  limits  allow  us 
only  briefly  to  discuss  it  here.  Their 
eruptive  origin  was  in  1850  advocated 
by  Foster  and  Whitney,  but  the  view 
taken  by  these  investigators  was  con- 
sidered by  subsequent  observers  to  be 
incorrect,  and  the  structure  of  the  jas- 
pilite explained  by  sedimentation,  i.e., 
that  the  iron  ore  was  originally  a  bog 
iron  or  limonite  which  had  subsequently 
been  metamorphosed.  In  1879  the 
present  writer  collected  sufficient  facts 
in  the  Marquette  district  then  to  prove, 
to  him  at  least,  that  the  sedimentary 
view  was  untenable,  and  that  with  our 
present  knowledge  the  eruptive  origin 
of  jaspilite  and  its  associated  iron  ore 


84 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &>  ATLANTIC  RAILWaF. 


with  their  subsequent  chemical  alter- 
ation by  percolating  waters,  was  the 
only  view  that  would  explain  the  phe- 
nomena as  he  then  saw  and  figured 
them.  This  opinion  was  later  endorsed 
by  Selwyn,  Director  of  the  Geological 
Survey  of  Canada.  More  recently  an 
attempt  was  made  by  Irving  to  explain 
the  origin  of  the  ore  as  a  carbonate, 
but  he,  as  well  as  nearly  all  the  more 
recent  advocates  of  sedimentation, 
starts  out  by  either  denying  or  be- 
littling the  occurrence  of  the  very  facts 
that  the  present  writer  has  figured,  and 
that  have  caused  him  to  hold  the 
eruptive  view.  Any  theory  of  the  or- 
igin of  the  iron  ores  that  starts  out  with 
a  denial  of  the  facts  that  it  ought  to 
explain,  can  hardly  be  accepted  until  it 
recognizes  those  facts  and  explains 
them.  When  this  is  done,  and  all  the 
facts  of  the  ore  deposits  collected,  we 
may  hope  for  some  common  ground  of 
agreement,  which  will  serve  as  a  guide 
in  exploring  for  and  mining  the  ores. 
In  accordance  with  this  method  of 
studying  the  ores  and  associated  jas- 
pilite,  N.  H.  Winchell,  in  his  discussion 
of  the  iron  ore  of  the  Vermilion 
district,  in  his  report  for  1886,  admits 
the  occurrence  of  the  eruptive  phenom- 
ena, but  explains  these  phenomena  as 
due  to  sedimentary  and  chemical  ac- 
tion, instead  of  being  due  to  eruptive 
causes.  The  late  State  Geologist  of 
Michigan,  Mr.  Chas.  E.  Wright,  had,  as 
early  as  1885,  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  only  satisfactory  explanation 
of  part  of  the  phenomena  of  the  iron 
ores  was  that  they  were  eruptive,  and 
it  must  be  admitted  that  no  geologist 
in  America  was  more  familiar  with  the 
iron  ore  deposits  of  Michigan  than  he. 
It  is  a  source  of  the  deepest  regret  that 
he  could  not  have  lived  to  publish  his 
evidence  and  conclusions. 

The  writer  based  his  conclusions 
that  the  ores  were  eruptive,  on  the  fact 
that  the  jaspilite  and  ore  form  dikes  and 
intrusions  in  the  associated  sandstones 
and  schists,  inclosing  fragments  or 
"  horses  ''  of  the  schist ;  on  their  twist- 
ing, bending  and  indurating  the  schist, 
fining  it  with  crystals  of  the  ore  ;  on 


their  breaking  in  every  direction  across 
the  foliation  of  the  schist,  as  well  a& 
with  it ;  on  their  pronged  structure  ; 
on  the  former  magnetite  condition  of 
the  iron  ore  ;  and,  as  suggested  by 
Whitney,  on  the  great  mass  and  purity 
of  the  ore,  which  is  beyond  that  of  any 
known  sedimentary  deposit.  One  fact 
that  has  an  important  bearing  on  this 
is,  that  the  ore  is  never  isolated  in  the 
schist,  but  is  always  connected  with 
the  jaspilite,  and  while  that  jaspilite 
may  end  in  one  direction  like  any 
dike,  it  has  never  been  known  to  end 
in  another  direction,  unless  cut  by  a 
fault  or  by  later  eruptive  rocks,  so  far 
as  the  writer  can  ascertain.  So  long, 
then,  as  the  jaspilite  can  be  followed, 
there  is  a  prospect  of  obtaining  good 
ore  somewhere  along  its  continuation. 
The  irregular  occurrence  of  the  ore 
and  its  jaspilite,  especially  its  being 
found  in  the  most  unexpected  places 
thrust  through  the  schist,  is  another 
strong  evidence  of  its  eruptive  origin. 

One  of  the  economic  aspects  of  the 
question  is  as  follows  '/  It  the  ore  is 
sedimentary,  it  must  follow  the  laws  of 
sedimentation  and  be  worked  out  the 
same  as  a  coal  bed,  but  if  of  eruptive 
origin  its  future  is  unlimited,  except  by 
the  difficulties  of  deep  mining,  or  be- 
because  of  its  being  cut  out  by  the  dia- 
base and  diorite  or  some  other  eruptive 
rock.  If  the  view  of  Foster,  Selwyn, 
Whitney,  Wright  and  myself  is  correct, 
it  means  far  more  for  the  future  per- 
manence and  success  of  the  iron  ore 
mining  industry  of  Michigan  than  do 
any  of  the  other  views  that  have  been 
suggested.  This  fact  must  not,  how- 
ever, influence  our  decision,  which 
must  be  based  purely  on  the  evidence 
and  its  interpretation. 

The  intrusive  relation  of  the  jaspilite 
to  the  schist  can  be  seen  in  the  railroad 
cuttings  southeast  of  the  Marquette 
depot,  where  the  writer  discovered  jas- 
pilite dikes  in  1888.  Evidence  of  the 
eruptive  origin  of  the  ores  and  jaspilite 
can  also  be  observed  in  most  of  the 
old  workings  about  the  Jackson,  Cleve- 
land, Lake  Superior,  and  various  other 
mines  about  Negaunee  and  Ishpeming, 


GEOLOGICAL. 


85 


although  they  are  not  as  plainly  mark- 
ed now  as  when  the  workings  were 
new,  because  of  the  weathering,  the  fill- 
ing in  of  debris,  etc.  The  entire  region 
from  Marquette  to  Michigamme  is  full 
of  interest  at  every  point,  and  nowhere 
can  a  student  or  geologist  stop  without 
finding  problems  worthy  of  his  atten- 
tion. 

The  jaspilite  is  well  exposed  in  ridges 
to  the  southeast  of  the  Jackson  mine 
and  elsewhere  about  it. 

Two  additional  areas  of  iron  bear- 
ing rocks  were  added  by  the  State 
Geological  Survey  under  Mr.  C.  E. 
Wright  in  1885  to-  the  parts  already 
known,  and  shown  on  Irving's  map 
published  in  1883.  The  first  added 
about  forty  square  miles,  mainly  in  the 
Yellow  Dog  River  Valley,  extending 
from  the  former  known  area  to  the 
centre  of  T.  50,  R.  28.  The  second 
area  added  about  thirty  square  miles 
in  the  Silver  Lake  district,  the  rocks 
being  traced  so.utheast  into  T.  48, 
R.  26. 

The  fragmental  deposits  of  ore  and 
jaspilite  mentioned  before  are  abun- 
dant in  many  portions  of  this  district, 
in  a  large  number  of  which  they  form 
the  only  portion  of  the  rocks  worked 
for  iron  ores  that  the  State  Geological 
Survey  has  thus  far  observed.  At  Ne- 
gaunee  in  the  Jackson  mine,  pit  No.  7, 
which  lies  only  a  short  distance  from 
the  station,  these  fragmental  formations 
make  up  the  chief  mass  of  the  ore 
formation  now  exposed,  passing  up- 
wards into  a  quarizite.  The  contact 
can  be  seen  on  the  northeast  side  be- 
tween the  non-fragmental  or  original 
deposit .  and  the  secondary  fragmental 
deposit  made  up  of  the  debris  of  the 
former. 

On  the  jaspilite  a  few  rods  south  of 
this  pit  the  detrital  jaspilite  can  be  seen 
resting  on  the  upturned  edges  of  the 
non-fragmental  form. 

In  many  places  about  the  Jackson 
mine,  and  to  the  north  of  the  mine, 
the  fragmental  overlying  jaspilite  for- 
mation can  be  seen,  often  passing  in 
its  upward  continuation  into  a  well- 
marked  quartzite — a  passage  which  is 


very  common,  especially  when  any 
great  thickness  of  the  fragmental  de- 
posit has  been  left.  The  schists  about 
the  Jackson  mine  also,  in  places,  con- 
tain fragments  of  the  ore  and  jaspilite. 
The  fragmental  jaspilite  and  ore  is 
abundant  about  Ishpeming,  especially 
at  the  Cleveland  and  Lake  Superior 
mines.  The  old  surface  workings  north 
of  the  Cleveland  mine  office  show  these 
deposits,  with  their  overlying  quartzite, 
excellently  well,  especially  the  pit  that 
contains  the  suspension  or  swinging 
bridge,  and  the  one  that  has  the  in- 
clined plane  for  footways.  It  will  be 
seen  that  all  these  deposits  are  water 
and  frost  deposits  made  out  of  the 
debris  of  the  iron  formation,  and  that 
they  gradually  pass  from  deposits  con- 
taining much  iron  ore  and  jaspilite, 
more  or  less  angular,  into  deposits  con- 
taining almost  nothing  except  water- 
worn  sand  grains  that  form  a  quartzite. 

At  the  Lake  Superior  mine  the 
"Big  W,"  figured  by  Brooks  (Geol.  of 
Mich.,  1873,  I-.  245)  to  prove  the 
sedimentary  origin  of  all  the  ore  forma- 
tions, is  nothing  except  one  of  these 
overlying  deposits  of  fragmental  ore, 
jaspilite  and  quartz,  made  up  chiefly 
of  the  detritus  of  the  underlying  true 
ore  formation,  whose  origin  was  the 
point  in  question. 

At  Republic  and  Humboldt  the  for- 
mations at  present  observed  appear  to 
belong  wholly  to  the  fragmental  ones, 
in  which  the  detrital  ore  has  been 
concentrated,  either  mechanically  or 
chemically,  in  sufficient  abundance 
and  purity  for  the  purposes  of  the 
miner,  the  Republic  being  one  of  the 
leading  iron  mines  of  Michigan.  About 
Republic  there  may  be  seen,  overlying 
the  fragmental  ore  formation,  a  second 
fragmental  formation  made  up  of  the 
debris  of  the  former,  together  with 
much  quartz.  This  latter  formation 
in  places  passes  into  a  true  quartzite. 

At  Sec.  15,  T.  48,  R.  26,  where  ex- 
plorations have  been  carried  on  for 
workable  bodies  of  iron  ore,  the  frag- 
mental deposits  of  iron  ore  and  jas- 
pilite exist,  and  form,  as  at  Republic, 
the  ore  deposits,  so  far  as  found. 


86 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &'  ATLANTIC  RAILWAF. 


In  the  Cascade  range  all  the  forma- 
tions of  jaspilite  and  ore  observed  last 
summer  are  of  the  fragmental  kind. 
Here  the  jaspilite,  as  well  as  the  ore, 
occurs  in  distinct  rounded  fragments 
forming  layers  which  are  frequently 
interlaminated  with  quartzite.  Over- 
lying this  detrital  formation  is  another 
detrital  deposit  unconformable  with  it, 
and  composed  of  water-worn  debris 
derived  in  part  from  the  underlying 
fragmental  deposit  of  jaspilite  and  ore. 

We  have  now  to  consider  what  the 
facts  mentioned  in  the  preceding  pages 
require  for  their  explanation,  in  the 
light  of  the  principles  also  given,  i.e., 
that  an  eruptive  deposit  can  yield  its 
detritus  as  soon  as  the  deposit  has  been 
formetl ;  but  a  sedimentary  one  must 
exist  for  a  long  while,  and  be  solidified 
and  more  or  less  changed,  before  its 
well-marked  fragments  can  be  depos- 
ited in  an  overlying  formation  of  sedi- 
mentary origin.  It  needs  also  to  be 
remembered  that  the  fragments  of  jas- 
pilite and  ore  in  the  overlying  detrital 
deposits  before  mentioned  are  banded 
and  possess  the  same  characters  as 
the  non-fragmental  underlying  deposit 
docs.  Further,  these  fragments  stand 
at  every  angle  in  the  deposit,  while  the 
banding  varies  with  the  position  of  the 
fragments,  showing  that  it  belonged 
in  the  fragments  before  they  were 
broken  from  their  parent  bed,  and  was 
not  produced  in  them  subsequently. 
From  the  above  statements  it  follows 
that  every  cne  of  these  fragmental  de- 
posits marks  a  distinct  geological  age 
in  the  Marquette  district,  unless  the 
underlying  formation  be  of  eruptive 
origin.  If  the  latter  was  the  case,  then 
it  might  mean  merely  sequence  of  time, 
but  not  necessarily  difference  in  geo- 
logical age. 

In  the  Cascade  range,  if  the  horn- 
blende schist  mentioned  previously  is 
of  true  sedimentary  origin,  the  over- 
lying deposit  is  of  a  later  geological 
age,  but  if  the  schist  is  metamorphosed 
eruptive  rock,  then  no  geological  di- 
vision can  at  present  be  established 
there.  As  stated  before,  the  overlying 
granite  and  schist   debris   passes   up- 


ward into  a  fragmental  jaspilite  forma- 
tion that  has  been,  and  now  is,  mined 
about  the  Volunteer  mine  for  iron  ore. 
This  fragmental  formation  is  here  sup- 
posed to  be  of  the  same  geological  age 
as  the  workable  fragmental  formations 
at  Republic,  Humboldt,  etc.,  and  the 
overlying  fragmental  formations  seen 
at  Negaunee  and  Ishpeming. 

Overlying  these  fragmental  forma- 
tions comes  a  second  deposition  of 
fragmental  material,  which  shows  that 
here  exists  a  true  geological  break  or 
age,  even  in  the  series  that  is  younger 
than  the  first  detrital  deposit  derived 
from  the  non-fragmental  jaspilite  and 
ore.  This  last  or  overlying  formation 
is  best  seen  at  the  Cascade  range,  at 
Republic  and  at  Holyoke.  The  above 
data  render  it  probable  that  in  the 
Marquette  district  there  are  three  dis- 
tinct geological  formations  or  ages. 

ist.  The  hornblende  schist  and 
granite  of  Cascade  or  Palmer  and  the 
non-fragmental  jaspilite  and  ore  of 
Ishpeming  and  Negaunee — the  Cas- 
cade Formation. 

2d.  The  fragmental  jaspilite  and  ore, 
with  their  associated  quartzites  and 
schists,  of  Cascade,  Republic,  Hum- 
boldt, Ishpeming,  Negaunee  and  else- 
where— the  Republic  Formation, 

3d.  The  overlying  conglomerates, 
quarzites  and  schists  of  Cascade,  Re- 
public, Holyoke  and  elsewhere — the 
Holyoke  Formation. 

Various  working  hypotheses  may  be 
suggested  to  account  for  the  observed 
facts  ;  if  it  could  be  proved  that  the 
supposed  non-fragmental  jaspilite  and 
ore  of  Ishpeming  and  Negaunee  are 
truly  fragmental,  their  present  relations 
being  due  to  sedimentary  and  chem- 
ical action,  and  the  squeezing  together 
of  the  jaspilite  and  schist,  then  that 
formation  could  be  put  into  the  second 
or  Republic  Formation  ;  while  their 
overlying  fragmental  debris  would  then 
come  into  the  third  or  the  Holyoke 
Formation. 

At  present  it  is  possible  that  further 
study  may  make  out  of  these  three 
formations  at  least  from  four  to  six  dif- 
ferent ones,  or  it  may  reduce  them  to 


GEOLOGICAL. 


87 


two.  One  or  two  seasons'  more  work 
will  probably  solve  the  vexed  ques- 
tions of  the  origin  of  the  ores  and  the 
relations  of  the  associated  rocks. 

DIABASE    AND    DIORITE. 

Following  the  formation  of  the  jas- 
pilite  and  ore,  and  its  denudation  by 
the  ocean  waters  to  produce  the  detrital 
jaspilite  and  iron  ore,  together  with  the 
iron  ore-bearing  quartzites  and  con- 
glomerates, immense  masses  of  basalt 
were  forced  through  the  strata  in  a 
liquid  condition.  The  introduction  of 
so  much  new  matter  caused  a  squeez- 
ing and  upturning  of  the  earlier  formed 
rocks,  so  that  we  now  find  the  iron  ore 
andjaspilite  with  their  associated  schists 
and  quartzites  lying  against  the  sides  of 
the  eruptive  basalts  or  forming  the  in- 
tervening low  grounds.  These  basaltic 
rocks,  being  the  later  comers,  have  cut 
out  the  others,  and  frequently  broken 
through  the  lower  portions  of  ore  and 
jaspilite,  effectually  barring  further 
working  of  the  ore  in  that  direction. 
These  old  basalts  have  been  very  much 
altered,  and  now  form  rocks  known  as 
diabases,  diorites  and  schists.  It  is 
not  improbable  that  many  of  th6se 
diabase  or  diorite  masses  are  the  roots 
of  old  volcanoes.  Many  suppose  that 
the  altered  basalts,  that  form  the  schists, 
pass  into  sedimentary  schists,  but  such 
is  not  the  case,  as  careful  observation 
will  determine  where  one  ends  and  the 
other  begins.  The  two  look  closely 
alike  and  are  similar  to  each  other  in 
composition,  but  do  not  pass  into 
each  other  any  more  than  water  and  oil 
do,  although  an  observer  might  not 
see  the  line  of  separation  between  the 
two.  The  contacts  of  the  two  forma- 
tions can  be  seen  to  the  east  of  Ish- 
peming  on  a  hill  just  north  of  the 
Cleveland  mine,  as  well  as  elsewhere 
at  points  in  which  the  altered  and 
schistose  diabase  and  diorite  come  in 
contact  with  the  sedimentary  schists. 
The  contact  of  the  hornblende  schist 
with  the  diabase  and  diorite  can  be 
well  seen  in  many  places  about  the 
northern  part  of  Marquette,  where  cut- 
tings have  been  made,  also  where  the 


break-water  material  was  quarried,  and 
upon  Light  House  Point.  Perhaps  the 
most  easily  accessible  places  for  the 
study  of  the  old  and  altered  basaltic 
rocks,  with  their  associated  schists,  are 
in  Marquette  and  vicinity,  as  well  as 
along  the  railroad  lines  from  Marquette 
to  Ishpeming  and  beyond.  The  dia- 
base and  diorite  form  high  rounded 
hills,  often  with  precipitous  sides,  and 
they  may  be  known  by  the  greenish  or 
greenish  gray  color  of  the  rock.  Good 
examples  may  be  seen  south  of  Ish- 
peming in  the  hill  lying  between  the 
Lake  Angeline  and  the  Salisbury 
mines,  also  to  the  north  of  Negaunee, 
between  that  city  and  Teal  Lake.  Here 
the  rough  columnar  structure  of  basalt- 
ic rocks,  at  right  angles  to  their  walls, 
can  be  well  seen. 

GRANITE. 

In  this  district  there  occur  two  or 
more  eruptions  of  granite,  one  of  which 
is  older  than  the  detrital  jaspilite,  if  not 
older  than  any  of  the  ore-bearing  for- 
mations, while  another  occurred  sub- 
sequently to  the  eruptions  of  the  before 
mentioned  old  basaltic  rocks,  or  dia- 
bases and  diorites.  This  granite  has 
had  a  marked  effect  upon  the  geology 
and  topography  of  the  country,  cutting 
out  the  schists  and  ores  over  large 
areas,  and  changing  much  of  the  schist 
into  gneiss.  When  the  granite  possesses 
a  banded  or  fluidal  structure,  it  is  called 
gneiss ;  but  that  term,  the  writer  thinks, 
ought  to  be  restricted  to  the  metamor- 
phosed, foliated,  sedimentary  rocks 
composed  of  quartz,  feldspar  and  mica 
or  hornblende,  or  both. 

Gneiss  and  granite  are  abundant  to 
the  south  of  Ishpeming  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  Republic,  Humboldt,  Cham- 
pion and  Michigamme.  It  can  be 
found  in  North  Marquette,  at  the 
mouth  of  Dead  River,  on  the  west  side 
of  Presque  Isle,  and  upon  the  islands 
and  shore  to  the  north  and  northeast 
of  that  point. 

Sugar  Loaf  is  one  of  the  prominent 
granite  hills  north  of  Marquette.  The 
granite  is  composed  mainly  of  quartz, 
feldspar   and   hornblende,   with  some 


88 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   (Sf  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


chlorite  and  mica.  So  far  as  observed, 
it  is  somewhat  more  coarse-grained  than 
some  of  the  ornamental  granites  ;  but 
it  is  suitable,  if  properly  selected,  for 
all  heavy  buildings,  warehouses,  dwell- 
ing-houses, piers,  foundations,  paving, 
monuments,  etc. ;  that  is,  for  nearly  all 
of  the  uses  to  which  granite  has  been 
put.  The  size  and  shape  of  the  blocks 
also  indicate  that  it  could  be  advan- 
tageously quarried  in  large  masses. 
The  writer's  attention  was  particularly 
called  to  this  location  by  Mr.  J.  M. 
Longyear.  A  good  porphyritic  granite 
is  found  in  the  vicinity  of  Republic. 
The  present  writer  has  for  years,  long 
before  he  became  a  resident  of  the 
State,  urged  the  development  of  the 
granite  industry  in  this  region,  on  the 
ground  of  the  rapidly  increasing  use  of 
granite,  the  immense  amount  of  it  in 
the  district,  and  the  all-important  fact 
that  direct  water  carriage  exists  to  the 
large  cities  of  Chicago,  Detroit,  Mil- 
waukee, Cleveland  and  Buffalo,  as  well 
as  to  a  hundred  other  Lake  ports;  while 
the  only  United  States  granite  that  can 
come  into  competition  must  be  brought 
by  rail  from  New  England,  Missouri, 
Minnesota,  Wisconsin  or  some  other 
interior  locality.  Most  of  the  granite 
brought  from  the  before  mentioned 
places  is  of  no  better  quality  or  appear- 
ance than  Lake  Superior  granite,  while 
it  is  not  improbable  that  more  careful 
investigation  would  reveal  other  grades 
than  those  before  mentioned.  Why 
should  the  authorities  of  the  Calumet 
and  Hecla  mine  be  forced  to  bring 
granite  for  its  use  from  the  extreme 
eastern  portions  of  Massachusetts, 
when  granite  equally  good  fur  their 
purpose  is  lying  waste  on  the  shores  of 
our  lake?  The  careful  development 
of  the  granite  industry  would  mean  a 
great  addition  to  the  wealth  of  Mich- 
igan, and  would  be  a  great  aid  in  ad- 
vancing the  towns  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
quarries,  as  well  as  assisting  in  the  im- 
provement of  lake  and  railroad  traffic. 

PERIDOTITE     AND    SERPENTINE. 

At  Presque  Isle  and  at  the  northwest 
of  Ishpeming  occurs  another  eruptive 


rock,  which  the  present  writer  showed, 
in  1880,  was  originally  a  peridotite  or 
olivine  rock  of  the  variety  known  as 
Iherzolite — that  is,  composed  of  oli- 
vine, enstatite  and  diallage.  This  pe- 
ridotite, since  its  eruption,  has  been 
altered  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  form- 
ing a  rock  known  as  serpentine,  while 
in  many  places  the  formation  of  dolo- 
mite has  also  occurred  as  a  result  of 
the  metamorphosis  of  the  peridotite. 
Frequently  the  dolomite  and  serpen- 
tine are  irregularly  blended  together, 
forming  the  variety  known  as  verde 
antique. 

No  marble,  in  the  proper  acceptation 
of  that  term,  occurs  in  the  Marquette 
district,  so  far  as  is  known,  excepting 
the  serpentine.  Serpentine  is  a  soft 
rock,  and  when  of  even  texture  is 
easily  polished,  making  a  beautiful 
stone  for  interior  decorative  purposes, 
but  it  is  unfit  for  outdoor  use,  as  it 
readily  loses  its  polish  on  exposure, 
and  is  easily  acted  upon  by  the  weather. 
Owing  to  the  nature  of  serpentine  its 
use  is  limited,  but  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  an  early  development  of  the  ser- 
pentine industry  in  Northern  Michigan 
may  be  found  both  practicable  and 
profitable. 

The  locality  at  Presque  Isle  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  ones  in  which  to 
study  peridotite,  as  it  occurs  there  well 
exposed,  owing  to  its  being  washed  by 
the  waves  of  the  lake.  It  is  here  seen 
as  a  dark  to  a  black  Iherzolite,  pass- 
ing into  a  serpentine  of  the  same  color, 
and  also  into  one  of  a  green  color, 
especially  on  the  northeast  side.  The 
peridotite  is  here  worn  into  caves,  and 
its  surface  traversed  by  a  network  of 
fissures  filled  with  dolomite,  chrysotile 
and  silica,  with  occasionally  some  cop- 
per, ores.  Since  accumulations  of 
chromite  or  chromic  iron  ore,  nickel 
ore,  platinum,  etc.,  are  frequent  ac- 
companiments of  the  chemical  altera- 
tion of  peridotite,  during  the  process 
of  the  formation  of  serpentine,  ex- 
plorers about  the  Ishpeming  range 
ought  to  keep  a  careful  watch  for  these 
substances. 

A  strongly  marked  fault  or  a  fissure 


GEOLOGICAL. 


89 


along  which  the  rock  has  moved,  so 
that  the  different  sides  occupy  a  differ- 
ent position  relative  to  each  other  than 
they  formerly  did,  is  to  be  seen  in  the 
serpentine  at  Presque  Isle,  a  short  dis- 
tance north  of  the  caves.  Mr.  Wright 
has  suggested  that  there  were  two 
eru-ptions  of  peridotite  as  a  solution 
of  the  difficult  problems  the  rocks 
present  on  Presque  Isle.  This  view 
had  much  evidence  to  support  it,  but 
further  study  by  the  writer  goes  to  show 
that  the  so-called  two  eruptions  are 
phenomena  caused  by  various  fractures, 
fissures  and  joints,  together  with  the 
unequal  action  of  the  percolating 
waters,  as  well  as  weathering.  On  the 
west  side  of  Presque  Isle  one  can  find 
the  granite  with  the  serpentine  adjacent. 
Excavations  made  by  Mr.  Seaman  and 
the  present  writer  prove  to  them  that 
the  contact  of  the  two  is  an  eruptive 
one,  and  that  the  peridotite  is  the  later 
eruptive. 

The  Ishpeming  serpentine  is  found 
to  cut  off  and  trend  obliquely  across 
the  eruptive  granites,  diorites,  diabases, 
etc.,  and  not  to  be  cut  by  the  dikes 
which  freely  traverse  the  other  rocks. 
All  this  indicates  the  later  age  of  the 
serpentine.  Direct  proof  of  this  is  to 
be  found  on  Sec.  31,  T.  48,  R.  27,  in 
which  locality  the  serpentine  is  seen  in 
direct  eruptive  contact  with  diorite  and 
chlorite  schist,  rendering  the  proof 
complete  that  the  serpentine  is  the 
youngest  of  the  large  intrusive  masses 
seen  thus  far  in  the  Marquette  district. 

DOLOMITE. 

Dolomite  or  magnesian  limestone  is 
found  in  various  localities  throughout 
the  Azoic  rocks.  It  is  usually  very 
impure,  and  contains  a  large  amount 
of  silica.  One  of  the  best  known  lo- 
calities is  south  of  Carp  River,  near  the 
quartzites  ;  another  is  at  the  Morgan 
furnace.  As  before  stated,  dolomite  is 
of  common  occurrence  in  association 
with  the  serpentine  north  of  Ishpeming, 
and  here  it  belongs  to  the  chemically 
formed  rocks,  being  a  product  formed 
during  the  alteration  of  the  psridotite 
to  serpentine.     Part  of  the  Michigan 


dolomite  belongs  in  one  sense  to  the 
eruptive  rocks  as  a  product  of  their 
alteration,  while  part  of  it  belongs  to 
the  sedimentary  group. 

DIKES. 

During  the  time  of  the  eruption  of 
the  diorite  and  granite,  as  well  as  sub- 
sequently, the  country  was  traversed 
by  fissures  filled  in  by  molten  matter 
that  formed  dikes.  In  fact  all  the  older 
rocks  of  the  region  are  traversed  by 
dikes,  some  of  which  run  approximately 
east  and  west,  and  others  north  and 
south.  The  majority  of  these  dikes 
are  old  basalts,  that  now  form  through 
alteration,  diabases,  diorites  and  schists. 
They  are  well  developed  on  Light 
House  Point  in  Marquette,  Picnic 
Point  and  Picnic  Islands,  and  on  the 
islands  in  the  vicinity  of  Presque  Isle. 
They  show  excellently  well  wherever 
the  granite  is  exposed  on  the  shore 
north  of  Presque  Isle.  At  Presque  Isle 
also  the  serpentine  is  cut  by  the  later 
east  and  west  dikes. 

Others  of  these  dikes  are  old  rhy- 
olites  that  through  their  alteration  now 
possess  the  characters  of  a  rock  called 
felsite  or  quartz  porphyry.  They  can 
be  seen  on  Light  House  Point  cut  by 
the  later  basaltic  dikes.  They  are  also 
common  in  the  Gold  Range. 

CHEMICALLY   DEPOSITED    MATERIALS. 

Throughout  the  preceding  pages 
illustrations  have  been  given,  that  show 
the  chemical  action  of  the  percolating 
waters  found  in  all  rocks,  for  there  is 
no  known  rock,  unless  exception  be 
made  for  rocks  in  the  form  of  glass, 
that  will  not  absorb  water  to  a  greater 
or  less  extent.  All  these  waters  are 
chemically  active,  whether  hot  or  cold, 
pure  or  not ;  but  it  is  undisputed  that 
heat,  pressure  and  substances  in  solu- 
tion in  the  water  greatly  increase  their 
chemical  activity.  It  has  been  pointed 
out  that  all  rocks  are  modified  or 
changed  through  the  action  of  the 
chemically  active  waters,  leading  either 
to  the  decomposition  of  the  rocks  or  to 
a  change  in  their  mineralogical  com- 
position, and  oftentimes  to  a  change  in 


9Ci         DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE  &'  ATLANTIC  RAIL  WAV. 


structure.  It  has  further  been  pointed 
out  that  the  alterations  brought  about 
by  the  chemical  waters,  with  or  with- 
out heat  and  pressure,  has  caused  rocks 
formerly  of  the  same  character  and 
composition  to  take  upon  themselves 
very  diverse  forms.  It  has  also  been 
noticed  that  rocks  of  entirely  different 
origin  and  structure,  like  sedimentary 
and  eruptive  rocks,  have  been  so 
changed  by  this  action  that  the  result- 
ing forms  are  indistinguishable  from 
one  another  except  by  their  geological 
mode  of  occurrence. 

All  these  changes  in  rocks  have  not 
proceeded  without  certain  mineral 
matters  being  removed  from  one  lo- 
cality and  deposited  in  another.  A 
strong  tendency  is  observed  towards  a 
localization  of  the  moved  mineral  pro- 
duct, or  towards  special  aggregation 
of  mineral  matter,  some  of  which  are 
economically  of  no  importance,  while 
others  form  useful  ore  deposits.  The 
special  accumulations  of  this  material 
in  the  Azoic  system,  that  are  of  eco- 
nomic interest  to  us,  are  the  veins  and 
the  soft  ore  deposits  known  principally 
amongst  the  miners  as  soft  hematites. 

SOFT    IRON    ORES. 

Such  Igneous  activity  as  that  before 
mentioned  could  not  take  place  in  this 
region  without  the  percolating  waters 
becoming  heated  and  their  chemical 
and  solvent  action  being  greatly  increas- 
ed, for  when  the  volcanic  energies  are 
dying,  one  of  the  last  traces  of  that 
eruptive  activity  is  shown  in  the  hot 
springs. 

The  rocks  amongst  which  so  much 
eruptive  matter  has  been  forced  are 
necessarily  fractured,  bent  and  twisted 
— the  fractures  serving  as  channels  for 
the  escape  of  the  waters  in  the  form  of 
springs  or  as  underground  streams.  It 
is  found  in  the  Marquette  region  that 
the  jaspilite  and  the  associated  detrital 
rocks,  that  contain  iron  ore,  have  been 
greatly  decomposed  and  affected  by 
the  percolating  waters,  generally  hot  ; 
and  that  as  a  result  the  silica  has  been 
leached  out  and  the  oxide  of  iron  de- 
posited in  its  place,  or  else  the  6riginal 


iron  ore  has  been  left  behind  or  locally 
concentrated.  Through  the  action  of 
these  percolating  waters  many  of  the 
siliceous  schists,  chlorite  schists,  argil- 
lites,  quartzites  and  jaspilites,  which 
were  formerly  worthless  as  ores,  have 
been  rendered  valuable  by  having  their 
siliceous  materials  largely  replaced  by 
oxides  of  iron,  etc.,  giving  rise  to  the 
ores  locally  known  as  soft  hematites. 
Oftentimes  the  iron  ores  are  locally 
aggregated  in  irregular  chambers  from 
which  the  original  rock  has  been 
removed. 

The  ores  produced  by  the  above  de- 
scribed vvater-action  are  not  only  ores 
of  iron  like  hematite,  limonite  and 
gothite,  but  also  ores  of  manganese, 
like  pyrolusite,  manganite,  psilome- 
lane,  rhodochrosite  and  wad.  Barite, 
as  well  as  other  minerals,  are  found 
associated  with  the  manganese  ores  in 
the  vicinity  of  Negaunee.  The  soft 
hematites  naturally  occur  in  places 
where  the  rocks  have  been  more  or 
less  arched,  or  bent  and  broken.  They 
are  very  commonly  found  in  the  lower 
lands  and  on  the  sides  of  the  diorite 
and  diabase  hills,  or  in  their  vicinity, 
at  points  where  the  fracturing  would 
naturally  be  greatest  and  the  water 
would  best  act.  The  Salisbury  mine 
was  first  worked  at  a  point  at  which  a 
large  diabase  dike  breaks  across  the 
country  and  cuts  obliquely  through  the 
large  diorite  hill  that  lies  between  the 
Salisbury  and  the  Lake  Angeline  mines. 
The  writer  pointed  out  eleven  years 
ago,  that  on  the  Lake  Angeline  side, 
at  the  point  where  this  dike  again  cuts 
the  jaspilite  and  schists,  would  be  the 
most  probable  chance  for  finding  an- 
other soft  hematite  mine,  as  at  this 
point  water  action  is  going  on  even  at 
the  present  day. 

The  soft  ores  are  also  found  at  con- 
siderable distance  from  the  diorite  hills 
when  any  action  has  caused  the  rocks 
to  form  suitable  channels  for  water,  so 
that  they  have  become  more  or  less- 
decomposed. 

VEIXS. 

One  of  the  latest  phases  of  the  for- 
mation of  deposits  of  value  has  been  the 


GEOLOGICAL. 


91 


filling  in  of  fissures  by  the  water-de- 
posited quartz  and  other  vein  materials, 
or,  in  case  no  crack  nor  fissure  existed, 
by  the  removal  of  the  country  rocks 
along  certain  lines  and  their  replace- 
ment by  vein  matter. 

Veins  formed  thus  may  contain  only 
quartz  or  other  valueless  minerals, 
gangue,  or  they  may  hold  valuable 
metals  and  ores.  It  is  in  veins  that 
the  gold  and  silver  north  of  Ishpeming 
are  worked,  the  vein  at  the  Ropes 
gold  mine  being  in  serpentine,  while 
the  others  are  in  diorite,  granite,  fel- 
site  and  schist.  Quartz  veins  can  easily 
be  seen  in  the  diorite  hills  about  Ish- 
peming, and  in  many  places  in  the 
Azoic  rocks  and  elsewhere. 

POTSDAM  SANDSTONE. 

The  rocks  of  the  A^oic  system  were 
still  subject  to  the  same  denudation  by 
frost  and  rain,  and  by  the  beating  of 
the  waves  after  that  formation  had  been 
completed,  that  the  different  members 
of  the  formation  had  been  subjected  to 
before  the  entire  system  was  complete. 
That  is,  there  were  deposited  about  the 
Azoic  rocks  mud,  sand  and  shingle,  in 
like  manner  as  such  materials  are  being 
deposited  on  our  lake  shores  at  the 
present  time.  This  detritus,  on  con- 
solidation, has  formed  a  series  of  shales, 
sandstones  and  conglomerates,  which 
overlie  or  abut  against  the  Azoic  rocks, 
and  are  formed  out  of  the  debris  of  the 
latter.  These  sandstones  form  in  Mich- 
igan the  base  of  a  new  system  of  rocks 
known  as  the  Palaeozoic,  or  ancient 
life,  from  its  containing  the  earliest 
authentic  remains  of  animal  life.  The 
sandstones  are  generally  considered  to 
be  the  equivalent  of  a  sandstone  in 
New  York  called  the  Potsdam  sand- 
stone— hence  the  rocks  are  said  to  be 
Potsdam. 

South  of  Carp  River  this  sandstone 
can  be  seen  lying  against  the  Azoic 
quartzites  and  formed  out  of  their 
debris.  The  Marquette  sandstone 
quarries  are  in  this  Potsdam  sandstone, 
and  at  the  base  of  the  quarries  may  be 
found  conglomerates  made  up  of  the 
underlying  Azoic   quartzites,    diorites, 


argillites,  schists,  etc.  A  short  distance 
south  of  Hotel  Marquette  can  be  seen 
on  the  west  side  of  Champion  Street, 
leading  to  South  Marquette,  some 
rounded  diorite  and  schist  knobs  that 
have  been  polished  and  grooved  by 
former  glacial  action. 

These  knobs  have  been  exposed  by 
excavations  made  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  filling  for  some  adjacent 
ravines.  A  matter  of  special  interest  is 
the  finding  of  small  veins  of  the  former- 
ly overlying  Potsdam  sandstone  that 
has  filled  the  cracks  in  these  rocks, 
that  formed  bosses  or  little  knobs  on 
the  shores  of  the  old  Potsdam  sea. 
The  Potsdam  sandstone  is  found  over- 
lying much  of  the  serpentine  of  Presque 
Isle  where  the  basement  conglomerate 
is  well  exposed,  although  that  conglom- 
erate has  subsequently  been  much 
altered,  apparently,  by  heat  and  water. 
The  same  sandstone  occurs  further 
north  on  the  shore,  and  on  some  of  the 
islands  that  overlie  the  Azoic  granite, 
which  has  been  decomposed  fc  r  some 
distance  below  the  base  of  the  sand- 
stone. This  decomposition  is  seen  to 
extend  to  the  boulders  of  granite  and 
other  rocks  in  the  basement  sandstone 
and  conglomerate.  These  changes  un- 
questionably have  occurred  since  the 
sandstone  has  been  deposited,  and  the 
precolating  waters  are  apparently  the 
cause  of  the  decomposition.  The 
sandstone  extends,  with  greater  or  less 
continuity,  along  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior,  around  Keweenaw  Bay  and 
Keweenaw  Point.  On  Partridge  Isl- 
and clayey  or  sandstone  fragments 
occur  abundantly  in  the  Potsdam  sand- 
stone itself.  They  are  not  probably 
fragments  of  another  formation,  but 
water-worn  masses  of  clay,  etc.,  derived 
from  the  Potsdam  sandstone  itself. 
The  writer  has  seen  similar  deposits 
being  formed  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  in 
the  vicinity  of  St.  John.  Potsdam 
sandstone  is  quarried  to  a  considerable 
extent  at  various  points  in  Northern 
Michigan,  chiefly  at  Marquette  and 
Portage  Entry.  It  makes  a  very  pretty 
building  stone,  and  one  for  which 
there  is  ready  sale.     Some  of  the  prom- 


92 


nULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


inent  buildings  constructed  of  the 
Marquette  stone  are  the  High  School 
building  and  several  business  blocks  in 
Marquette.  Of  the  Portage  Entry 
stone  examples  can  be  seen  in 
several  of  the  business  blocks 
at  Marquette,  the  State  Prison 
at  the  same  place,  and  the 
National  Bank  and  the 
Mining  School  at 
Houghton. 
The  Potsdam 
sandstone 
was  evi- 
de  n  1 1 y 


formed  on 
the  shores  of 
a  body  of  water 
accessible  to  ocean 
tides,    as    it    shows 
ripple-marks,     sun- 
cracks,  rain-drop  impres- 
sions and  mud-flows,  which 
indicate  conditions  that  are 
only  known  to  exist  in  local-  U 
ities  where  the  alternate  ebb 
flow  of  the  tides  occur. 

During  the  time  of  the  deposition  of 
this  sandstone,  volcanic  activity  com- 
menced again,  and  the  central  portion 
of  Keweenaw  Point  is  found  to  be  com- 
posed of  alternating  lava-flows,  sand- 
stones and  conglomerates,  deposited 
upon  the  tide-washed  sinking  shores 
of  the  sea.  The  intermittent  volcanic 
activity  ceased  for  a  while  after  the  main 
range  of  Keweenaw  Point  was  formed, 
leaving  time  for  the  formation  of  a 
broad  belt  of  sandstone  and  conglome- 
rate ;  but  again  recommenced,  forming 
the  basaltic  rocks  exposed  along  the 
northern  side  of  Keweenaw  Point  at 
Eagle  Harbor,  Agate  Harbor,  Copper 
Harbor  and  elsewhere. 

In  connection  with  these  lava-flows 
from  fissure  eruptions  which  were  of  a 


basaltic  character,  there  was  also  extrav- 
asated  much  volcanic  material  of  a 
trachytic  and  rhyolitic  nature,  the 
debris  of  which  makes  up  the  chief 
portion  of  the  interbedded  sandstones 
and  conglomerates.  These  occur  in 
the  form  of  intrusive  dikes,  bosses,  etc. 
The  basaltic  rocks  forming  the  south- 
eastern range  of  Keweenaw  Point, 
known  as  the  Bohemian  Mountains, 
were  considered  by  Foster  and  Whitney 
to  be  intrusive  masses  erupted  subse- 
quently to  the  formation  of  the  main 
deposits  in  this  region.  Irving,  how- 
ever, considered  them  to  be  ordinary 
flows,  like  the  rest  of  the  lava-flows 
of  Keweenaw  Point.  He  does  not 
advance  any  special  proof  of  this  prop- 
osition, while  the  phenomena  pre- 
sented by  him,  as  well  as  by  Foster  and 
Whitney,  appear  to  be  more  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  view  that  they 
are  later  eruptive  masses, 
as  held  by  the  last-named 
observers.  However,  the 
question  is  yet  an  open 
one.  The  basaltic 
lava-flows  are 
known  to  be 
such,  as 
pointed  out 
^IaT^x X    by  Foster 


and 
Whitney, 
by  their 
baking, 
or  indu- 
rating, or  hardening 
the  underlying  rock 
by  their  sending  dikes 
and  tongues  down 
the  rocks ;  by  their 
caught  up  fragments 
lying  rock ;  by  their  crystalline  struct- 
ure being  best  developed  below  the 
centre  of  the  flow  ;  by  their  having  no 
eff"ect    upon   the   overlying    conglom- 


GEOLOGICAL. 


93 


erate,  while  the  debris  of  the  lava  is  to 
be  found  in  the  base  of  the  conglom- 
erate ;  by  the  overlying  conglomerate 
and  sandstone  filling  cracks  in  the 
underlying  lava-flow,  etc.  The  thin- 
ner basaltic  lava-flows  were  cooled 
quickly,  so  that  they  contained  much 
glass,  which  was  readily  decomposed 
by  the  percolating  waters.  In  their 
altered  condition  they  now  form  rocks 
known  to  geologists  as  melaphyrs,  but 
which  are  locally  called  amygdaloids. 

The  thicker  flows  formed  heavy  beds, 
which  cooled  more  slowly,  became 
more  crystalline  and  were  less  easily 
affected  by  the  percolating  waters  than 
the  thinner  flows.  These  heavy  flows, 
owing  to  their  alteration,  now  form 
rocks  by  geologists  named  diabases  and 
gabbros,  but  locally  called  traps  and 
greenstones.  All  these  now  diff"erent 
rocks  were  once  lavas  of  the  same 
chemical  constitution,  differing  only 
in  structure  and  in  those  differences 
of  crystallization  and  mineral  constitu- 
tion that  result  from  slow  or  rapid 
cooling. 

These  flows  must  have  taken  place 
over  the  gently  sloping  tide-washed 
shore  of  a  sea,  whose  shore  was  grad- 
ually, or,  it  may  be,  at  times  abruptly 
sinking,  so  that  the  flows  and  their 
detriial  deposits  accumulated  at  about 
the  same  rate  as  the  shore  sank, 
making  the  shore  line  approximately 
constant.  This  must  have  been  the 
case,  or  the  lava-flows  and  conglom- 
erates would  have  been  more  irregular, 
less  constant,  would  have  covered  a 
more  limited  area,  and  would  soon 
have  been  built  up  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  waves. 

Owing  to  the  natural  irregularities 
of  a  lava-flow,  and  of  the  resulting  in- 
equality of  the  sedimentary  deposits,  it 
is  to  be  expected  that  some  inequalities 
in  thickness  of  both  formations  should 
exist,  and  that  sometimes  one  or  the 
other  should  be  wanting.  For  instance, 
if  a  portion  of  the  lava  was  raised  above 
the  sea,  that  portion  would  not  be 
covered  by  either  sandstone  or  con- 
glomerate, but  only  by  its  own  decom- 
position products,  if  even  they  were  not 


carried  away  by  the  rain.  Hence  it 
would  happen  that  the  material  be- 
tween two  flows  would  be  marked  at 
one  point  by  a  conglomerate,  but  else- 
where only  by  a  thin  seam,  or  else  the 
two  flows  would  be  interfused. 

It  also  frequently  happened  that  a 
comparatively  short  time  existed  be- 
tween two  flows.  In  such  a  case  little 
or  no  conglomerate  could  form  be- 
tween them,  and  as  the  latter  flow  fused 
again  the  top  of  the  earlier  flow,  the  two 
became  united  into  one  mass,  so  that 
it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  where  one 
begins  and  the  other  ends. 

THE     COPPER-BEARING    OR    KEWEENAWAN 
SERIES. 

The  relation  of  the  lava-flows  with 
their  interbedded  conglomerates  to  the 
Potsdam  sandstone  on  the  east  is  a 
matter  of  great  scientific  and  economic 
interest,  and  has  given  rise  to  much 
discussion,  which  is  liable  to  continue 
for  many  years  to  come,  until  the  whole 
truth  shall  be  known.  In  the  report  of 
Foster  and  Whitney,  the  eastern  sand- 
stone was  considered  to  be  once  con- 
tinuous with  the  sandstone  that  lies  to 
the  west  of  Keweenaw  Point,  but  it  was 
thought  that  the  two  parts  had  been 
separated  by  a  fracture  or  fault  plane 
that  extended  along  the  entire  southern 
side  of  Keweenaw  Point.  This  fault 
allowed  the  sandstone  on  the  east  to 
remain  horizontal,  while  the  lava-flows 
on  the  west  were  tilted  up  at  the  same 
angle  that  they  at  present  have,  and  the 
overlying  western  sandstone  was  sub- 
sequently worn  away.  The  sandstone 
east  of  the  fault  line  was  said  to  lie 
horizontally,  or  to  dip  to  the  southeast. 

Later,  attention  was  called  to  certain 
observations  made  along  the  line  of 
the  fault,  especially  at  the  Douglas 
Houghton  Falls.  These  observations 
caused  the  lava-flows  and  their  inter- 
bedded sedimentary  rocks  to  be  con- 
sidered as  an  older  geological  forma- 
tion than  the  eastern  or  Potsdam  sand- 
stone. The  lavas  were  said  to  form  an 
old  sea-shore  bluff"  on  the  Potsdam  sea, 
and  the  sandstone  was  laid  down  hori- 
zontally,   abutted    against    the  cliffs. 


94 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. 


and  was  formed  from  their  water-worn 
debris.  Various  other  opinions  have 
also  been  advanced,  reference  to  which 
our  limited  space  does  not  permit. 

In  1879  the  present  writer  made  an 
examination  of  the  formations  at  the 
points  at  which,  on  the  Douglas 
Houghton  and  Hungarian  Rivers,  the 
eastern  sandstone  comes  in  contact 
with  the  lavas,  or,  as  they  are  now 
commonly  called,  the  copper-bearing 
rocks  or  Keweenawan  series.  He  found 
that  the  sandstones,  instead  of  lying 
horizontally,  dipped  gradually  or  ir- 
regularly toward  the"  northwest ;  and 
that,  instead  of  abutting  against  the 
copper-bearing  rocks,  they  were  over- 
laid by  the  latter,  and  the  two  were 
interbedded.  Later,  the  correctness 
of  these  observations  was  denied  by 
Irving,  who  upheld  the  view  of  the 
greater  age  of  the  copper-bearing  rocks, 
but  moved  the  supposed  sea-shore  cliff 
from  its  former  supposed  locality  and 
placed  it  elsewhere.  Subsequently  the 
question  was  taken  up  by  Irving  and 
Chamberlin  in  defence  of  the  view  that 
the  copper-bearing  rocks  are  older  than 
the  eastern  sandstone.  If,  however, 
one  will  take  their  published  observa- 
tions, together  with  the  sections  of  this 
later  work,  he  will  see  that  their  pre- 
ceding observations  are  discredited, 
and  that  they  fully  sustain  the  correct- 
ness of  the  present  writer's  statement, 
that  the  sandstone  dipped  under  the 
copper-bearing  rocks  instead  of  being 
separated  from  them  by  a  vertical  fault 
or  an  old  sea  bluff.  The  result  is,  that 
in  the  main  point  at  issue  the  present 
writer  was  shown  to  be  correct,  i.e., 
that  the  sandstone  did  underlie  the 
copper-bearing  rocks,  and  the  main 
question  was  then  transferred  to  one  of 
interpretation.  Do  the  lavas  overlie 
the  eastern  sandstone  on  account  of 
their  having  flowed  over  them  in  the 
form  of  a  molten  lava,  as  the  writer 
claims,  or  have  the  lavas  been  thrust 
up  over  the  sandstones  through  the 
motion  of  an  older  solid  mass  along 
an  obliqu6  fault  plane,  as  last  held  by 
Irving  and  Chamberlin.? 


During  the  summer  of  1889  an  ex- 
amination of  that  question  was  made 
by  the  State  Geological  Survey,  and  the 
rocks  uncovered  along  the  line  of 
contact  of  the  sandstone  and  lavas  for 
the  purpose  of  ascertaining  their  exact 
relations.  The  result  has  been  to 
prove  to  the  present  writer,  beyond  any 
reasonable  doubt,  that  on  the  Douglas 
Houghton  and.  Hungarian  Rivers,  as 
well  as  on  Sec.  20,  T.  56,  R.  32  N.,  the 
sandstone  does  dip  gently  toward  the 
lavas,  and  finally  passes  under  them 
with  an  increasing  dip ;  that  the  junc- 
tion is  not  a  fault  junction  but  that  of 
a  lava-flow  upon  an  underlying  soft 
sand  and  mud.  The  lowest  bed  of 
melaphyr  was  found  on  the  Douglas 
Houghton  River  to  be  overlaid  by 
sandstone,  as  described  by  the  writer 
in  1880,  although  this  fact  had  been 
denied  by  the  before-mentioned  au- 
thors. The  copper-bearing  rocks  on 
the  north  side  of  Douglas  Houghton 
River  are  seen  to  overlie  the  eastern 
sandstone  for  about  150  feet.  Along 
the  line  of  contact  to  the  north  on  the 
St.  Louis  location  and  in  Wall  ravine, 
as  well  as  south  of  Portage  Lake, 
proof  of  distinct  faulting  could  be 
obtained,  which  sustains  the  fault  claim- 
ed by  Foster  and  Whitney,  Irving  and 
others.  Along  the  Douglas  Houghton 
contact  no  sign  of  any  fault  existed, 
but  in  the  copper-bearing  series  just 
below  the  falls,  several  fractures  with 
evidences  of  the  motions  of  sides 
were  observed  that  would  indicate  a 
faulting  here. 

The  fault  plane,  wherever  observed 
along  the  line  of  contact,  showed  that 
the  overhanging  wall  was  on  the  side 
next  the  copper-bearing  rocks.  It  is 
well  known  by  all  miners  and  geolo- 
gists that  in  all  normal  faults,  i.e.,  the 
commonly  occurring  faults,  the  rock 
on  the  hanging  side  of  the  fault  has 
slipped  down  relatively  to  the  rock 
forming  the  foot  wall.  A  reversed 
fault  is  one  in  which  the  hanging  wall 
side  has  been  pushed  up  on  the  foot 
wall  side  of  the  fault.  The  reversed 
faults  are  generally  considered  to  be 


GEOLOGICAL. 


95 


rare,  so  much  so  that  some  geologists 
deny  that  they  ever  occur,  although 
the  present  writer  has  seen  them  asso- 
ciated with  normal  faults  in  the 
Cheever  ore  bed  at  Port  Henry,  New 
York.  This  rare  mode  of  faulting  is 
the  one  assumed  by  Irving,  who  was 
obliged  also  to  assume  that  the  uplift 
of  the  hanging  wall  was  accompanied 
by  a  thrust  to  the  eastward,  a  view  that 
some  observations  by  the  Geological 
Survey,  especially  by  Mr.  Seaman, 
would  sustain,  but  which  the  present 
writer  thinks  need  more  careful  exami- 
nation and  further  confirmation  before 
they  are  accepted  as  conclusive,  since 
all  can  be  explained  by  the  repeated 
movements  that  usually  occur  along 
the  sides  of  a  fault. 

The  present  writer  holds  that  the 
sandstone,  which  all  have  agreed  was 
eastern  sandstone,  underlies  the  cop- 
per-bearing rocks,  and  that  the  first 
lava  of  that  series  flowed  over  the  east- 
ern sandstone,  which  is  older  than  the 
copper-bearing  or  Keweenawan  series. 
Subsequently  a  fault  line  or  fissure  was 
formed,  running  near  what  is  now  the 
point  of  contact  of  the  sandstone  and 
lavas,  sometimes  exactly  at  that  point, 
sometimes  on  the  lava  side,  and  prob- 
ably sometimes  on  the  sandstone  side 
of  it.  Along  this  fissure  it  is  probable 
that  a  normal  fault  occurred,  along 
which,  by  the  slipping  down  of  the 
hanging  or  wedge-shaped  side,  the 
sandstones  and  their  interbedded  lavas 
were  more  or  less  bent  downwards  or 
contorted,  as  they  are  now  found  to  be. 
This  normal  faulting  accounts  for  the 
fact  that  sometimes  the  lava  and  some- 
times its  associated  conglomerate  is 
brought  in  contact  with  the  eastern 
sandstone  along  the  fault  line.  It  is 
to  be  remembered  that  in  almost  all 
faults  there  is  more  or  less  rubbing  back 
and  forth,  or  up  and  down  motion, 
although  the  final  result  of  these  varied 
motions  is  the  production  of  a  reversed 
or  normal  fault  according  to  the  direc- 
tion in  which  the  greatest  amount  of 
motion  took  place. 

This  view  would  explain  most  of 
the  difficulties  that  geologists  have  had 


in  understanding  this  series,  especially 
if  it  should  be  shown  that  the  lava- 
flows  came  from  the  main  lake  side 
instead  of  from  the  Keweenaw  Bay 
side,  as  that  would  only  require  the  cut- 
off remnants  of  the  edges  of  the  lava- 
flows  to  be  removed  by  denudation 
on  the  Keweenaw  Bay  side. 

Should  the  reversed  fault  be  proved 
to  be  the  true  one  then  the  view  of 
Foster  and  Whitney  concerning  the 
relations  of  the  copper-bearing  rocks 
would  appear  to  be  more  correct  than 
that  of  Irving,  while  a  normal  fault 
would  be  consistent  with  the  theory 
that  the  copper-bearing  rocks  are  of 
Triassic  age. 

VEINS    AND    COPPER    DEPOSITS. 

Besides  the  fault  before  mentioned, 
numerous  fissures  cross  Keweenaw 
Point  instead  of  running  longitudinally 
with  it,  and  more  or  less  faulting  oc- 
curs along  these  fissure  lines.  Portage 
Lake  lies  in  a  trough  excavated  along 
one  of  these  fissures,  while  many  of 
the  others  are  filled  with  vein  matter 
which  has  been  mined  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent.  These  fractures  and  fis- 
sures with  faulting  across  Keweenaw 
Point  probably  were  developed  subse- 
quently to  the  formation  of  the  longi- 
tudinal fault  or  faults,  if  more  than  one 
such  fault  shall  later  be  proved  to  exist. 
Should  such  be  the  case,  it  would  ac- 
count for  part  of  the  assumed  thick- 
ness of  the  beds. 

The  before  mentioned  fissures  seem 
to  have  been  formed  by  powerful  move- 
ments of  different  parts  of  the  rocks 
that  caused  the  cross  fracture  and  dis- 
location of  the  latter.  The  movements 
were  repeated  from  time  to  time,  caus- 
ing a  rubbing,  grinding,  breaking  and 
polishing  of  the  parts  adjacent  to  the 
fissures.  After  the  main  fissures 
had  been  formed,  the  subsequent 
movements  would  not  cause  any  very 
extensive  secondary  breaking  of  the 
compact  and  heavy  beds  of  diabase  and 
conglomerate,  but  in  the  soft  and 
scoriaceous  melaphyrs  the  fracturing 
would  be  much  greater,  so  that  the 
parts  adjacent  to  the  fissures  would  be 


96 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   6f  ATLANTIC  RAILWAV. 


much  broken.  During  the  time  of 
the  fracturing,  and  subsequently,  these 
fissures  served  as  channels  for  the  chem- 
ically active  waters,  which  also  perco- 
lated through  the  adjacent  rocks.  In 
the  scoriaceous  and  easily  decompos- 
able melaphyrs  the  veins  were  widened 
by  the  decomposition  of  the  adjacent 
rock,  but  in  the  coarsely  crystalline 
and  heavy  diabases,  as  a  rule,  the  same 
effects  were  produced,  either  not  af  all 
or  only  to  a  limited  extent.  The  sand- 
stones and  conglomerates,  biing  com- 
posed principally  of  trachytic  and  rhy- 
olitic  material,  are  much  less  affected 
by  percoladng  waters  than  the  basaltic 
rocks,  hence  the  fissures  are  not  gener- 
ally widened  in  them,  especially  if  they 
are  in  thick  beds.  At  the  time  when 
the  percolating  waters  were  acting  on 
the  rocks  adjacent  to  the  fissures  they 
were  also  working  in  the  rocks  every- 
where upon  the  Keweenaw  Point. 

In  many  localities  the  evidence  is 
strong  that  the  percolating  waters  were 
hot,  while  in  others,  as  remarked  by 
Marvine,  no  sign  exists  that  they  were 
above  the  temperature  of  the  waters  of 
the  present  day.  These  waters  per- 
colated with  more  or  less  readiness 
through  the  rocks,  causing  a  greater  or 
less  alteration  and  decay ;  while  the 
substances  they  took  up  were  deposited 
in  any  fissures,  cells  cr  other  open 
spaces  that  existed  in  the  rock,  or  else 
portions  of  the  rock  were  dissolved 
out  and  their  places  refilled.  This  is 
strikingly  seen  in  the  conglomerates, 
like  the  Calumet  and  Hecla,  in  which 
pebbles  of  the  easily  decomposable 
melaphyr  have  been  partly  or  entirely 
removed  and  their  places  filled  with 
copper  or  some  other  minerals. 

Besides  copper,  the  deposited  min- 
erals are  mainly  quartz,  calcite,  epidote, 
laumontite,  prehnite,  delessite,  chlorite, 
datolite,  analcite,  orthoclase,  apophyl- 
lite,  etc.  All,  or  nearly  all,  of  the  ma- 
terials that  fill  the  crevices,  cells  and 
other  places  in  the  lavas  and  conglom- 
erates apparently  were  derived  from  the 
decomposition  of  the  lavas  themselves, 
and  the  course  of  the  waters  carrying 
these   materials   in  solution  seems   to 


have  been  downward.  The  fissures 
that  form  the  veins  were  filled  at  the 
same  time  and  by  the  same  agencies 
as  those  that  acted  upon  the  rocks, 
and  the  materials  in  them  likewise 
appear  to  have  been  obtained  from  the 
adjacent  rocks  themselves.  In  the  nar- 
rower portions  the  veins  are  often  filled 
with  vein  matter  proper,  but  in  the 
wider  portions  the  veins  are  often  com- 
posed of  broken-up  masses  of  mela- 
phyr, etc.,  cemented  by  vein  matter. 

In  the  veins  the  copper  is  found 
intimately  mixed  with  the  gangue,  or 
in  sheets  or  irregular  masses.  In  sheet 
form  the  copper  extends  downward  or 
has  its  sides  approximately  parallel 
with  the  vein.  Oftentimes  the  sheet 
divided,  and  held  between  its  parts 
some  of  the  gangue  or  melaphyr.  It 
is  also  not  uncommon  to  find,  entirely 
enclosed  in  the  copper,  masses  of  mel- 
aphyr, quartz,  calcite  or  other  vein 
materials.  The  melaphyrs  themselves 
are  often  impregnated  with  copper 
adjacent  to  the  veins.  Good  illustra- 
tions of  the  veins  can  be  seen  at  the 
Phoenix,  Cliff,  Central,  Copper  Falls, 
and  other  mines  in  Keweenaw  County. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Hancock,  Hough- 
ton and  Opechee,  some  of  the  old  lavas 
are  mined.  As  stated  before,  these  old 
lava-flows,  which  now  form  melaphyrs 
(amygdaloids),  have  been  greatly  acted 
upon  by  water,  and  have  had  deposited 
in  their  mass  different  minerals  J^sso- 
ciated  with  more  or  less  copper.  The 
copper  is  generally  deposited  in  an  ir- 
regular manner  in  the  melaphyr,  form- 
ing strings,  globules,  irregular  masses, 
etc.  The^e  deposits  are  not  in  the  form 
of  veins,  but  are  impregnations  of  old 
lava-flows,  and  hence  are  in  the  form 
of  beds.  As  an  example  of  mines 
worked  upon  these  old  lava-flows  there 
may  be  cited  the  Quincy,  Franklin, 
Osceola,  Atlantic,  Huron,  and  the 
Copper  Falls  in  part.  The  Copper 
Falls  has  been  worked  in  part  on  an 
old  lava-flow  of  a  very  scoriaceous  char- 
acter, that  formed  originally  a  black, 
rough,  cellular  lava  sheet  covered  with 
clinkers,  similar  to  many  well-known 
modern  lava-flows.     At  the  time  of  the 


GEOLOGICAL. 


97 


flow,  or  after  it,  the  interstices  were 
filled  with  detrital  mud,  while  the 
various  parts  of  the  flow  appear  to  be 
connected,  and  do  not  form  true  water- 
worn  pebbles.  The  writer  has  col- 
lected at  Copper  Falls  portions  of  the 
rock  that  show  the  hardened  exterior 
crust  and  the  cellular  interior,  as  they 
occur  in  small  masses  and  bombs  of 
modern  lavas,  while  he  has  found  pre- 
served intact  the  original  ropy,  stringy, 
twisted  surface  of  the  lava.  The  Copper 
Falls  bed,  above  described,  is  locally 
called  the  ash-bed,  but  it  is  a  melaphyr 
or  a  true  lava-flow,  and  not  a  bed  of 
volcanic  ashes.  The  Atlantic  mine 
appears  to  be  worked  upon  the  same 
or  a  similar  formation. 

Besides  the  veins  and  lava-flows,  the 
conglomerates  have  also  been  found  in 
places  to  have  had  their  interstices 
filled  in  with  copper  and  other  min- 
erals. In  them  the  old  cementing 
mud,  and  oftentimes  the  pebbles  of 
melaphyr,  have  been  removed  by  per- 
colating waters,  and  their  places  filled 
with  copper,  which  penetrates  even  the 
minute  cracks  in  the  hard  rhyolite 
(quartz  porphyry)  pebbles.  These 
old  sea-beach  conglomerates  are  now 
worked  in  the  Calumet  and  Hecla,  the 
Tamarack,theAllouez  and  other  mines. 
There  are  thus  mined  in  this  region 
three  distinct  classes  of  deposits  : 

Copper  Deposits  of  Keweenaw  Point. 

I  °  Fissure  veins. 

2°  Lava-flows  (melaphyrs  or 

amygdaloids. ) 
3°  Conglomerates. 

Conglomerates  are  known  to  be  old 
sea-beach  deposits,  like  those  that  are 
forming  along  the  lake  or  ocean  at  the 
present  time.  This  is  proved  by  the 
rounded  and  water-worn  character  of 
their  pebbles  and  grains  ;  by  the  ob- 
served water  action  on  the  surface  of 
the  underlying  lava-flow;  by  the  fact 
that  at  their  base  the  conglomerates 
contain  considerable  basaltic  mud  and 
pebbles  derived  from  the  underlyino^ 
lava,  both  of  which  diminish  in  amount 
or  are  entirely  wanting  as  the  distance 


from    the   underlying   trap    increases. 

That  the  copper  was  deposited  from 
water,  with  or  without  electro-chem- 
ical action,  is  shown  by  the  fact  of  its 
being  found  inclosed  entirely  in  min- 
erals known  to  be  formed  by  water 
only;  also  by  its  inclosing  such  min- 
erals ;  by  its  being  found  in  discon- 
nected or  isolated  masses  in  the  lavas 
and  elsewhere;  and  by  its  greater 
abundance  where  there  are  to  be  seen 
the  most  signs  of  water  action.  Had 
the  copper  been  def)osited  by  igneous 
agencies,  it  would  have  had  a  channel 
or  line  of  passage,  and  been  continu- 
ous along  that  line  of  passage,  while 
all  the  different  masses  of  copper  would 
have  been  connected  together  down- 
ward, unless  separated  by  fractures  or 
faults. 

The  copper  seems  to  have  needed 
for  its  deposition  the  open  spaces  of 
veins  and  fissures,  and  rocks  that  were 
porous  and  cellular,  those  whose  parts 
were  easily  removed  by  the  percolating 
waters,  like  melaphyrs  or  the  cement- 
ing mud  of  the  conglomerates.  In 
truth,  the  copper  seems  to  have  been 
deposited  wherever  there  were  found 
any  places  in  which  to  leave  it.  From 
the  fact  that  the  copper  is  generally 
found  most  abundantly  under  the  heavy 
lava-flows,  and  associated  with  min- 
erals evidently  the  production  of  the 
decomposed  lavas,  it  appears  probable 
that  the  copper  was  once  finely  dis- 
seminated through  the  lavas  and  has 
since  been  concentrated  by  waters  per- 
colating through  them.  Had  the  cop- 
per been  derived  from  the  sandstones, 
then  one  would  suppose  that  under 
them  should  be  found  the  greatest  sup- 
ply of  copper,  but  such  is  not  the  case. 
That  the  course  of  the  copper  was 
generally  downward  is  indicated  by 
the  finding  of  spikes  of  copper  and  cal- 
cite  that  extend  from  one  bed  down  into 
others,  with  the  small  end  downward 
like  an  icicle  ;  by  the  fact  that  when 
the  copper  is  not  uniformly  distributed 
throughout  the  bed  or  flow  that  is 
mined,  it  is  apt  to  be  more  abundant 
in  the  upper  portion  of  it ;  and  by  the 
fact  that  the  largest  masses  of  copper 


DULUTH,  SOUTH  SHORE   &-  ATLANTIC  J? AIL  WAV. 


have  usually  been  found  in  the  upper 
portions  of  the  veins. 

That  the  copper  was  deposited  after 
the  copper-bearing  series  was  com- 
plete is  shown  by  the  fact  that  it  is 
found  in  fissures  extending  across  the 
beds,  that  could  only  have  been  pro- 
duced after  the  beds  were  in  place  ; 
by  the  fact  that  the  copper  was  depos- 
ited subsequently  to  the  jointing  of 
the  lavas,  owing  to  its  now  being  found 
wrapped  around  the  pieces  formed 
by  jointing,  just  as  paper  is  wrapped 
around  a  piece  of  soap  ;  and  by  the 
extension  of  the  copper  from  one  bed 
down  into  another  as  a  continuous 
mass. 

The  means  by  which  the  copper  was 
concentrated  and  deposited  as  native 
copper  instead  of  occurring  in  the 
form  of  the  usual  copper  ores,  is  an 
interesting,  and  as  yet  unsolved  prob- 
lem, that  awaits  the  chemist  who  is 
willing  to  give  his  time  and  attention 
to  the  subject. 

The  structure  of  Keweenaw  Point 
may  be  then  summarized  as  follows  : 
A  deposit  of  sandstone  overlaid  with 
lava-flows  mingled  with  more  or  less 
interbedded  conglomerates,  and  finally 
overlaid  by  sandstone.  Subsequently 
these  beds  suffered  longitudinal  and 
cross-fracturing  and  faulting.  Later 
all  were  acted  upon  by  percolating 
waters,  both  hot  and  cold,  by  which 
the  rocks  were  altered  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent,  and  by  which  the  copper 
was  concentrated  and  stored  up  in 
the  conglomerates,  lavas  and  veins  in 
which  it  is  now  found. 

The  above  account  gives  in  brief  a 
general  idea  of  the  geology  of  the 
regions  touched  upon  here,  as  the 
writer  interprets  the  facts  observed. 
He  is,  however,  aware  that  different 
interpretations  of  the  same*  facts  may 
be  made  by  others.  He  has,  therefore, 
called  special  attention  to  the  impor- 
tant differences  of  interpretation,  and 
he  will  endeavor  to  continue  the  inves- 
tigation, and  seek  only  the  facts  and  the 
truths  to  which  they  point.  As  in  the 
question  of  the  iron  ores,  their  origin 
has  a  direct  bearing  on  their  amount 


and  the  permanence  of  the  deposit;  so, 
too,  in  the  copper-bearing  rocks,  the 
question  of  their  relation  to  the  east- 
ern sandstone  is  one  of  great  economic 
interest  in  these  days  of  diamond  drills 
and  deep  shafts.  One  can  reacfily  see 
this  when  he  considers  that  it  involves 
the  question  :  Do  the  copper-bearing 
rocks  extend  out  under  the  eastern 
sandstones  or  not?  If  they  do,  their 
exploration  becomes  merely  a  question 
of  how  great  a  thickness  of  sandstone 
must  be  bored  through.  If  they  do 
not,  then  the  question  ought  to  be 
settled  by  the  geologist,  if  possible,  in 
order  to  save  waste  of  money  in  un- 
necessary exploration  on  the  part  of 
those  that  are  interested  in  mining. 

MINERAL  LOCALITIES. 

Presque  Isle. — Serpentine,  galenite, 
pyrite,  chalcopyrite,  dolomite,  chalce- 
dony, agate,  chrysotile,  enstatite,  dial- 
lage  and  olivine. 

Partridge  Island. — Agate  in  nar- 
row veins  in  the  gabbro. 

Picnic  Islands.  — Epidote,  horn- 
blende, 

HoLYOKE  District. — Galenite. 

Mt.  Mesnard. — Chalcocite,  hema- 
tite. 

Negaunee.  —  Hematite,  limonite, 
gothite,  pyrolusite,  manganite,  psilo- 
melane,  wad,  barite,  kaolinite,  rhodo- 
chrosite,  jasper,  calcite,  quartz. 

Ishpeming.  —  Hematite,  limonite, 
chlorite,  jasper,  pyrite,  quartz. 

Gold  Range. — Gold,  pyrite,  pyrrho- 
tite,  tourmaline,  epidote,  molybden- 
ite, magnetite,  pyroxene,  dolomite, 
picrolite,  verde  antique,  serpentine, 
precious  serpentine,  chrysotile,  talc, 
williamsite. 

Humboldt. — Ottrelite,  tourmaline, 
magnetite,  hematite,  grunerite. 

Republic.  —  Magnetite,  hematite, 
staurolite,  hornblende,  garnet. 

Champion.  —  Garnet  in  chlorite 
schist,  tourmaline,  chloritoid  (mason- 
ite),  hematite,  martite,  magnetite. 

MiCHiGAMME.  — Garnet  in  chlorite 
schist,  magnetite. 

Wetmore,   Webster  and  Beaufort 


GEOLOGICAL. 


99 


Mines.  — Limonite  in  earthy  stalactitic 
and  mammillary  forms. 

L'Anse. — Graphite,  wad,  limonite, 
pyrite. 

Houghton. — Copper,  silver,  whit- 
neyite,  domeykite,  algodonite,  deles- 
site,  chlorite,  quartz,  epidote,  calcite, 
prehnite,  laumontite. 

Keweenaw  Point. — Quartz,  calcite, 
epidote,  prehnite,  analcite,  laumontite, 


datolite,  heulaudite,  amethyst,  cuprite, 
apophyllite,  chrysocoUa,  chalcosite, 
chalcopyrite,  chabazite,  barite,  jasper, 
azurite,  malachite,  delessite,  chlorite, 
wollastonite,  etc. 

Michigan  Mining  School, 

Houghton,  Michigan. 

January  23,  1891. 


0^^^ 


^^^ 

r^"       ji-?i 


GAYLAMOUNT 
PAMPHLET  BINDER 


ManafaelureJ  by 

GAYLORD  BROS.  Inc. 

Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

Stockton,  Calif. 


ivi315201 


